Alright then…I guess I’ll go ahead and start the grafting thread . My new Victorinox knife arrived today and I decided to put it to work right away. I did all my apple grafts…all 2 of them…
Here’s William’s Pride…my second apple tree has William’s Pride already. I decided I don’t need a lot of Yellow Transparent and decided to graft one beach to WP.
(Notice my Korean Giant getting ready to flower. This will be my first ever pear bloom)
All 3 grafts are splice. Very hard to do. I normally do cleft but that didn’t work for these.
So we’ll see how they do.
I also got 2 cuts on my hands. I told myself that means I got a good grafting knife.
Then I decided to call it a day since it was so windy and my stuff kept flying around.
Susu, whips aka splices shouldn’t be hard to do! I’m taking the liberty of linking to a couple of useful threads on the subject, knowing that you may have already read them. My apologies if I’m belaboring the subject too much …
I’m assuming you can separate the sucker from the rootstock and replant it where it doesn’t have to compete, or you can remove the (dead?) tree that it is to replace.
The cut downward on the scion is fine for me its the cut up on the rootstock i watch out for when doing whip grafts. I do mostly field grafts as my preference.
I tried my hand at grafting this year. So far Ive just grafted onto some of my established chickasaw plums with Santa Rosa, Ozark Premier, Spring Satin and McKibbon and Dot Piazza improved chickasaws. Looks like some of each have taken. I’ll grafting a few Asian persimmons to American rootstock after the rootstock wakes up.
I did not mean root sucker, I meant the ones coming from the trunk of the root stock, the ones that people keep cutting off on all their root stock, I was thinking rather than grafting in to a trunk, there is already a very nicely attached growth. Sort of like what people do with a cleft graft using a branch.
If I understand you correctly you want to graft to a shoot below the graft union, presumably a variety that is different from the variety above the graft union. And yes, you can do that, but I’m not sure why. If you need to replace the original grafted variety altogether that is a good way to do it, but if you are trying to have two trees, as it were, on one root than I’m probably agin it, doable though it may be. I think it creates a conflict between the two trees and they’ll both suffer.
Others may have pulled this off nicely, so let’s hope somebody else has some answers too.___
I did my peach grafting today. I had no peach to graft but I grafted plum to peach seedling. This is the one I transplanted last November and pruned heavily. It came out of winter like a champ.
I’m afraid I’m in the great white north, grin. Any grafts I have are porch grafts. The weather screen shot is normal weather for here.
I use pretty small scions, so it’s a cleft graft for me. Bifocals figure into it too, grin.
These are chestnuts, and seedlings. We got down to plus 2 in the porch last week, so the leaves at early expansion are all cupped. They’re Ok, and will grow out of it.