Almost 30 inches of growth on my longest gerardi mulberry shoot now.
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All four of the grafts of @LarryGene’s feijoa that I did in March are starting to grow, one of them a little faster than the rest:
100% success is a new record for feijoa for me! I’m more convinced than ever that late winter or early spring is the best time to graft them here.
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Hey Ryan,
Do you have enough to sacrifice one?
Looks to me like there is an open crack under the V with dead tissue surrounding it.
Air may have been the enemy. Might look different in person.
If so needed wrapped lower and tighter to seal.
Could have been working with a dud scion if all the other varieties are growing.
I would dissect one so you know when to cut your losses. See if it’s black inside.
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im hoping my illni everbearing scions take off like that. just started budding out 3 days ago. mine are that close to the ground as well.
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I cut a tiny piece of the bark on the bud side and it was healthy and green looking, unlike the few others I pulled my tape off of today that just fell apart (dead)… If the scion material is still alive after 2+ months at this point I’m just surprised it didn’t push the bud.
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I have been told by one of our members who has successfully completed tens of thousands of grafts over the years that “you only need one bud”, so for most of my trees that’s what I have been doing. It looks like its paid off on most of my pawpaws and other persimmons, just not JT-02… It’s possible the scion was not it great shape but the wood was (and still is) green and healthy looking. That’s why I reached out, it’s perplexing.
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I tried long scion and short this year. Both did well, but I do admit the shorter scion presents less problems after the graft. Birds took out two of mine. They also appear to make thicker branches. The long ones give you the advantage of more buds. Sometimes the bud itself goes down and if you only have one it’s game over. You’re grafts look great though. Evenly matched and clean. Much better than mine.
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I use longer ones now, mostly for insurance. I also think the shorter ones tend to dry out unless you hit the sweet spot.
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Few years back I bought some pears grafted by a member. They used like a three foot scion. Worked pretty well for him. I liked it because it made you feel like you got more tree.
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I say Rub it off! This is my first year grafting persimmons but I did some experimenting leaving below graft growth on some and diligently rubbing off on others. The ones that I kept on top of every few days pushed out first.
I have a few from 4+ weeks ago that I thought were fails but I just started now keeping on top of the sucker/ below graft growth and they are finally pushing.
It seems the stock will do anything to bypass the graft if it can.
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A lot of my grafts have been using the Zenport tool this year, although my TINY twig pawpaws I’ve been using recently have just been getting extremely long cleft grafts (like 1"+ for tiny trees) in hopes of getting good contact somewhere. I’ll update on those when I have results too.
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Thanks for the encouragement Dom, I might go try it out before I head to work for the week. I guess the worst that could happen is I’m out a couple bucks on a rootstock right?
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Ryan, I think @Dom is right. I’m just a grafting newb myself, but I’ve read that D. virginiana has a strong tendency to favor its own buds to that of a graft—and will deny a scion dominance, even starve it out, if the stock’s own buds are allowed to grow. I did several JT-02 grafts a month ago, and all but one have pushed good growth. I’ve been very zealous about keeping all rootstock growth rubbed off.
The graft you showed is definitely callused up and joined very nicely. 
I might be tempted to slap some parafilm over that crack until heals up, though. I’ve done a few tool grafts, too, and have noticed that it sometimes splits the wood like that.
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Giving these two apple grafts to a friend this week.
I grafted 4 hoping 2 would make it… all 4 made it. These two are the smaller of the 4. Keeping the best 2 for myself.
Early McIntosh on m7
NovaMac on m7.
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@steveb4 … good luck on your mulberry graft. Hope it does great.
My white mulberry was supposed to be a Illinois everbearing… mix up from OGW.
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I decided it was time (I don’t know anyone else) to try of my own title being: micro-grafting of field techniques on bench bench caliper’s rootstocks.
The bark is slipping wonderfully for these pecans which I added hican, hickory, and pecan to. Parafilm to squeeze the bark in contact with the scion. I thought about it while doing the grafting that something stronger that is clear is better, Temflex or Bio-Tape. Bio-Tape persimmon buds don’t push thru. Not sure about other Genus’ & species’…
So this is a 3-flap:
Some are 2-flaps, most are 3-flaps. I (may) have developed a new technique. I did several of them. After callus… I’ll look and see what they appear like.
If I die, they’re among the photo above with (24) grafts 
I ‘tried’ that went extremely well ‘Arrowhead grafts’ (on a micro scale of course) that looked real good being put together. I’m interested to see that…
Here’s a special peach (seedling a member shared) of green budwoood I stuck above deer browse height during mid-August as a chip bud onto a single turnk from this colony. The trunk has nurse branches…
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damn man. you’re a grafting artist. i cant even get a decent line on a whip and tongue!. what kind of blade are you using?
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Not to brag, lol, okay to brak, a Schatt & Morgan ‘Cotton Sampler’. It’s a dandie.
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