i have one i got off ebay. its a German blade from a company that made Sorgen knives years ago. cant remember the name but it looks alot like yours with a hardwood handle. can literally shave with it after about 10min. on the jap. stones.
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This one needs a tune-up. I can still shave hairs off my arm “brushing it” against my hairs and moving a few mm forward thru their hairs…
I cannot use photos reduced from Windows 10 so you can really look at my blade. you see toward the handle the blade is not SMOOTH. And there’s a place or two up higher that need a tune-up.
I don’t mess with stones. I sharpen on a small belt that I took all the hardware off of (it).
that’s about it.
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Thumbs-up 
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i use the real fine one. think its 3000 grit or something. i also use a belt to remove the burr and smooth the metal. do that once a month on all my knives here.
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That is so cool!!
I have a heartnut question if you have a minute. Like an idiot, I left my two seedling heartnuts in a temporary bed too long, and I’m going to have to kill them because there ain’t no digging those kinds of tap roots up after a certain point! Live and learn.
So I’d like to graft the varieties to side root pieces I dig up. Is that possible with non-dormant wood? Or should I wait until next spring? There are some big roots I know I could get.
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You can dig up dormant tap roots and prune the main root before transplanting
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No way I would mess around with root grafting nut trees! Just “no” to the entire path or train of thought.
Sow seed in place for where you want your trees, and later graft to them.
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Although… If the main taproot was dug up as much as possible and transplanted successfully, maybe it could be grafted next year?
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Hale’s Papershell shagbark hickory grafted on Shellbark hickory:
Lena persimmon
‘DBG’ Quercus turbinella
Denver Botanic Gardens form
grafted onto Macrocarpa but I didn’t have good results and I know for certain that I need seed of tubinella, or, neighboring hybrids of xturbinella. At any rate, this is a blue-leafed semi-evergreen oak. It’s going to struggle with humidity but I wanna see if I can grow one, a blue leaf oak. This is a large-growing form which is quite rare for the species.
@disc4tw about oaks or pecans, etc… the “tougher to graft” (reason being the density and quickly drying out wood) and nut trees can die if grafted too low very-easily after transplant from a container or bareroot (purchased). These are the two-reasons…
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Make sure you brace the new grafts or the wind will snap them right off.
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I’ve had this apple scion grafted for maybe a month. how long do they take, you think? it’s on a pretty established tree and is a cleft graft.
my avocado grafts, one has taken and this one has not. the other is a cleft, this one is at the top. it’s Duke grafted to Mexican winter. the other one is pushing leaves already. should I give this one time, you think, or try it again as a cleft or just try to root it? the little one below on here is pushing at the film, but not really going yet. also this is a terrible photo.
.
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Give it time! I’ve had some avocado grafts start growing immediately and others take months to start, even with scions from the same source on similar rootstocks. I’ve never had luck regrafting and very low success rooting cuttings without leaves on them, so giving it some more time is your best bet anyhow.
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You got (so many buds - that may be holding it back). Cut it off a 1/4" above this bud and dab some wood glue. You shouldn’t have more than (2) buds on a scion. I use 1 for example.
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will do
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This year I did 18 apricot grafts and 12 apple grafts. All of the apricot grafts have taken, and 8 of the apple grafts have taken. The 4 apple grafts that have not done anything yet are ones that I used black electrical tape to wrap. I’m wondering if this might be causing an issue. Has anyone had problems with black electrical tape heating the union up too much?
Two of the apples that haven’t woken up are on G890, and I wonder if that rootstock might just be slow growing, but I did two more on G890 without black tape and they have woken up. The other two are interstems, with enterprise grafted to G890 interstem, grafted to M111. The G890 - M111 union appears to be healing as that section has leafed out, but nothing from the enterprise scion. I don’t know if I can remove the black tape without disturbing the union at this point, but it is getting into the high 80s here and very sunny now.
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Black tape works great. Doubt that’s your issue. Check the scion to see if it is still green. If still green might just need more time.
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All three grafts of Madame Boutant pear (thanks again @cdamarjian!) on overhanging branches of my neighbor’s mountain ash are growing nicely. Just pruned back some of the surrounding branches to encourage them to grow even more:
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They look great!
This is mine. Will grow as caged single leader till above deer browse, at 5’
.
As for squash, you might want to try some Delicata transplants. When things finally warm up this weekend, they should take off!
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I started another batch of seeds this weekend, so maybe it’s not too late?
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