They will probably be fine from seed now. Plants keep growing till frost.
Transplants always just sit there for a week anyway.This is my Delicata from transplant 3 weeks ago.
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id tip them several times toi get more branching and keep them short or they will easily get 5ft in a summer. ididnt to mine and the weight of the branch curled the whole thing towards the ground. i pruned them back to about 15in in April. now they are branching out nicely now. i have bartlett, stacyville, nova, patten and summer crisp on my 6ft. tree. it has no mtn. ash branches on it anymore…
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The neighbors are excited for me to graft over the rest of the tree next year. We’ll have a brainstorming session this fall on what scionwood to get, probably will go for 2-3 cultivars, it’s a very bushy little tree and has good branching for something like this.
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isnt it great to be able to turn a ornamental tree into a fruit producing one. only drawback is mtn ash is a short lived tree. but in another 4-5 years you can graft over a few of the many seedlings that come up and start them to replace when the 1st one goes downhill.
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Ah didn’t realize that. There are some enormous examples planted as street trees around here, I wonder if they live longer in our milder/more Mediterranean climate?
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they arent that short lived. probably 30+ yrs. my mature ones, ringing my property, are starting to decline and die. were planted mid 90’s. plenty of seedlings coming up to replace them.
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Sometimes persimmons take a long time to wake up. I had one that I had given up on get going later in the season.
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I had the scion die on a new bare root persimmon. Two years later the rootstock started growing. That’s some serious stored energy. Can’t give up on persimmons as long as they still scratch green.
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Terrible picture, despite my best efforts. T-budded some Indian Free peach on my Redhaven tree. My grafts have failed so far, but I am determined to get this variety on this tree!
On a related note, I sprung for a package of rubber grafting strips to use in lieu of rubber bands and it’s so much better! Just the right amount of stretch, and ready to go without having to cut them or anything.
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The grafting strips are great. I liked using the ones a member shared with me. I’d highly recommend comparing to the temflex rubber splicing tape from Lowe’s. Cut the roll in thirds to achieve a similar size to the rubber strips.
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Just did another few avocado grafts, this one is Brazos Belle on a Mexicola seedling:
That’s my standard process: a cleft graft, buddy tape first and often a grafting rubber on top. Though I mostly add the grafting rubber if I’m not happy with the cleanness of the cuts (as here).
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Looks like all grafts of pear on Sorbus aucuparia have taken!
I was really behind with stripping off rootstock growth and some grafts look a little stunted because of it. Whatever, life happens and to be honest, the sooner they learn to cope with my degree of neglect the better😂
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Try removing wood off back of T-Bud so vascular phloem of branch in direct contact with lateral meristem phloem on interior of T-Bud.
Without the wood on the T-Bud it is thinner & conforms better to the curve of the branch making a tighter seal.
Tape very tight.
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You gotta be careful that you don’t cut the bud off too thin (don’t get under the bud enough) or you end up grafting a partial bud shield and the partial piece of bud shield is still connected to scion 
haha. Kind of funny to me! Probably not to everybody!
In the meantime a chip bud might suffice on Jay’s particular situation trying to slide a bud in a slit of that branch diameter is pretty rad! Not for the undergrad!
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@Barkslip
Please explain:
From apical meristem micro tissue culture cloning videos & dormant auxiliary node macro tissue culture videos, I got the perception that with pretty much all horticulture species that the meristem cells are all on lateral phloem side & not the vascular phloem side on the wood.
So I find your statement rather confusing.
Please clarify. ( @Osteen ) this type of budding has repeatedly failed on Asimina triloba I feel it is very advantageous to perfect it.
Would facilitate multiple variety Espalier style Asimina triloba grafted trees.
You gotta scrape the whole node when you cut a bud off. If you see ‘lines’ on the scion stick where the pith is, you didn’t get the entire bud so what You grafted will never grow.
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I will need to pay better attention.
You are talking about not cutting deep enough or wide enough?
you gotta get under the bud and cut the whole bud out. Like a tumor…
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@Barkslip,
Are you including the wood or the thin coating on the wood where the cambium naturally separates?
Suggesting that both sides of Cambium under the bud have to be removed with bud for take?
Or just all of the bud side of Cambium has to be removed for a take?
My apologies but still feeling confused.
And need accurate clarification please.
Dax I’ve had zero success t-budding, Can you post a picture or two to illustrate what you are saying? Thanks
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