If you take your knife and try to cut a bud out for a chip or to slide in a budding situation and you don’t see that you got the whole bud (you’re cutting into the pith to remove the entire bud)… you will see lines and dots all associated to the bud. W/o getting all of it, the graft cannot grow.
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@Masbustelo @Barkslip
Yes please, high resolution pics & video.
This could explain my failures at auxiliary node macro tissue culture failure too.
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okay
I just finished grafting today and chip budded all day. I’m telling ya, you either are able to capture the entire piece or you cut to shallow and therefore you find that there’s dots and lines on the wood of your bud and there’s dots and lines on the stick.
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@Barkslip
Still confused!!!
Would the invention of a bud coring drill facilitate take?
Then slide bud core into new hole on recipient branch?
Have depth markers on the coring bit so get an exact match.
Have a standard drill bit matching size for recipient hole with depth markings.
So exact tight Cambium match???
@Barkslip sounds like the perfect opportunity for a tool invention!!!
This was very helpful, thanks.
Think that I know why my cloning experiments failed now, lol.
Part of Bud Shield still on Scion Stick. Didn’t get all bud tissue so inevitable graft failure.
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Nice video, Dax! I didn’t look for lines vs dots, but I’m 90% sure I cut my buds deep enough. Didn’t have much trouble sliding them in; hopefully they take better than the whole stick grafts I did earlier in the season.
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@Barkslip thanks!
I don’t believe that part of the wood is a stem cell location.
However, it is a nutrient & metabolite storage location for the stem cells.
I didn’t realize before how critical it was for a graft take.
Thanks, this will probably be of great assistance to my research!!!
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I am looking for Olympic Giant Asian pear scions for next year. Hope you keep me in mind for that too 
Guess I’ll be buying some OH x F 333 rootstock for next year as well.
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Hit me up this Winter
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Have a quick question for you seasoned grafting pros here. I recently got some cherry plum scions from a seller on Etsy and they sent the scions with the buds cut off and covered with wax. Never seen or heard of anyone cutting the buds off before and wanting to know if I’m fighting a losing battle trying to get these scions grafted successfully. They are already grafted onto some plum stock I have from an old tree on the property here. Thanks in advance!
Hello Dennis,
Sometime go I read an article about a grape grafting method called “Holz auf grün propfen”, meaning grafting scions of last year’s growth (wood) onto branches grown this year (green). According the article the success rate is very high and the mechanical strenght of the grafts would be better then those of bud grafts. So you keep your scions in the refrigerator until the new shoots are strong enough to be grafted. The best period is after blooming of the grapes (end of may until end of june).
So I thought to give it a try. I wanted to change a Frankenthaler (greenhouse grape) to Suffolk Red. The Frankenthaler is at least 30 years old.
Last year (may 2021), I cut the whole “rootstock” about 20 to 30 cm above the ground. During the growing season (2021), I kept 5 new strong branches to be grafted this year.
I kept the scions (Suffolk Red) in the refrigerator (cut in february, wrapped in moist cococoir) until 10 th june this year (few weeks ago).
To solve the problem of bleeding I made some cuts (nothes) in the part of the rootstock branches below the grafts. So there is no excessive pressure at the union (wait until bleeding stops after cutting the branch, otherwise, make some cuts more).
On the 10 th june I grafted the desired variety using different methods (cleft, modified cleft, whip & tongue (most of them)). I also made some bud grafts on the 1 year old branches.
As you can see on the pictures below, the grafts look very promising. But to be sure, I have to wait a few more weeks.
On the pictures below, you can also see some of the cuts/notches I’ve made to stop the bleeding (are dry already).
Jack
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Hallo Dennis, forgot to say that I’ve cut the branches grown last year at 1 m above ground. It’s on the new branches of this year that I’ve made the grafts (accept the bud grafts).
Jack
Can you post a photo of what you mean? it might help folks to help you on this one.
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Imagine a regular scion with dormant buds. Those were cut off and then sealed with wax. Any chance new buds will form? Even after they’ve been cut off? They cut every bud off along the scion. Not the branch or leaves, the bud. No pictures as they’ve been grafted and covered with tape.
That may be another obstacle in your endeavor.From what I’ve read,Cherry isn’t compatible with Plum.People have tried and although the scion grew for awhile,in the the long run,didn’t survive.
There is something called Adara or Puente Plum,that could be used as an intermediary between the two,that will most likely increase your success.
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Not sure why they would have done that… On apples at least, I try and rub or cut off all buds on the rootstock, to encourage only the grafted scion to grow. Invariably there will be growth pop out in a few spots anyway. “Adventitious buds” might be something you want to research.
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Honestly, to me it sounds like they stole the buds from the scion and sold you the remaining stick. If I was you I would reach out to etsy for a refund and contact the seller. If they don’t have an explanation as to why they sent you a scion without buds (which they won’t) I would report them. Did they have any reviews previously?
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@Bradybb starrtraveler29 is okay with rootstock selection. just to keep you in the loop. it’s a “cherry plum” scion not a cherry
So let me ask @starrtraveler29 did they cut or did they knock the buds off? And if no buds, (was) the wax covering where the bud should be or was that area exposed so you could see green/bark (no wax where a bud should’ve been?
I’ve had a couple people during my lifetime send entirely waxed scions… I assumed they collected early and knew they weren’t going to have another chance to return to that tree for scions soon, so they wax the whole thing. Which… drives me nuts scraping it all off if it’s on their sticky vs. cracking off. Cause I don’t want to put wax all over my tools or drag it onto the scion while making cuts.
I’m just stating some things I don’t like about your whole-entire, situation…
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