Grafts need to be held tightly together so I us stretchy plastic strips and rubber bands
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I wrote the Wilt Stop people a few years ago asking that question, and they said don’t do it. Not sure why now.
If I recall correctly the liquid bandage products are nitrocellulose dissolved in ether and alcohol (“collodion”). The ether dissolves at once and leaves the nitrocellulose. Don’t know how well that would work.
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You might try shellac. They use it in the American way of four flap pecan grafting. I used it on grape cuttings when rooting.
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I hold a bit of hope with my Black Sea Jujube, it’s an early variety, I also saw Dr Yao’s video about grafting jujube scions, I see something where she said the growth might be coming from. It gives me hope. This picture is the front, the back of this scion has something, but I can’t take a picture, it’s too tight.
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Good thing you grabbed those! Sap is up and buds enlarging here.
Too early, but dormancy is fleeting fast.
I’ve got a lamb abbey scion thanks to @NuttingBumpus and I’m figuring out when and how to graft it. I really don’t want to mess it up, I only have a few scions this year and I’m really emotionally invested in this one
keeping it dormant and trying to figure the best apple graft to try and when. I can make good cuts but my timing is harder
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Ordinarily, the old wisdom is to wait until the stock has leaves the size of a squirrel. I have made successful grafts with whip-&-tongue when the scion & stock are nearly the same diameter. If the stock/branch is much larger, I have also succeeded with cleft grafts.
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Kunsangsean, the answer is your #1 — on bark grafts you need enough scions around the stump to keep it alive around the top. In your case, 2-3, not 1, would have been the right number.
What you picture had nothing to do with it drying out due to poor protection.
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Got it, thanks! I was thinking that the bark rotting was actually due to too much moisture rather than too dry, after the parafilm cracked and allowed a place for rain to get in and pool up. But maybe there wouldn’t have been rot if I’d used 2-3 scions so the bark was living.
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I often do a double cleft using 2 small thin scions in a bigger root/trunk.
But, I found yesterday I’d done a double SIDE GRAFT last spring on opposite sides of a larger rootstock. (I did receive some large B-10 roots last year…supposed to be getting some large Antonovka next month. M-7’s coming Thursday.)
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a mouses ear I heard. I got about two months to wait I think
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Just finished another greenhouse grafting session. Here’s my tally of grafts done so far this year…
Avocado:
- 4x Wilma
- 3x Mexicola Grande
- 2x Pancho
- 2x Magdalena
- 2x Puebla
- 2x Frank
- 2x Brissago
- 2x Opal
- 1x Duke
- 1x Jade
- 1x Long South Gate
Citrus:
- 1x Meiwa kumquat
- 2x Kishu mandarin
- 2x VI 396 chimera
- 2x Giant Key Lime
Loquat:
- 1x Strawberry
Only the loquat was on an in-ground outdoor rootstock, and I’m guessing the freeze later this week will doom it.
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I removed a lot of my fig grafting today, I think it’s too hot, the scions dried up. Maybe I have less than 5 out there. I might redo the rest of grafts too to wedge grafting per OGW.
How did the double side graft turn out?
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Very vigorous. I clipped one of them off Sunday.
Pear grafting questions…
In January I transplanted 2 callery pear trees out into my field.
Today Feb 21 both of them are showing green growth, small leaves starting.
Question 1… When is best time to graf scion of other varieties (kieffer, improved kieffer, orient, korean giant) on to my rootstock callery trees ?
If they have small leaves starting already… i expext that by mid March they are going to be leafed out pretty good
With pears… how do you know (what do you look for) to know the time is right ?
Queation 2… i am going to graft improved kieffer on one of my callery rootstock trees.
What ever I grow successfully pear wise will have to be Fire Blight resistent. Long history here with pear failure due to FB.
Would a combination of improved kieffer and kieffer ? Be my best bet … do those two work for pollination ?
I am not worried about having fancy pears… just want a couple varieties that will live and survive FB.
I can always add other grafts in the future to try different varieties.
Is Orient or Korean Giant known to be resistent to FB ? Do well in the hot humid south east. Pollinate with improved kieffer ?
Thanks
TNHunter
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I have Korea Giant and have never had FB issue so far. I have it for 8~9 years at least.
Pear is very easy on the graft temperature requirements. It is a good time to graft. I have done winter ( very early spring) graft once and all take
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My Black Sea graft, is there something emerging?
Close up, I dont recall something was there before the graft.
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@SoCalGardenNut … looks like you may have a bud pushing thru the parafilm. Good sign.
Below is one of my apple grafts from last year.
Not long after those buds push thru… shoots & leaves will start forming.
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@IL847 … thank you Annie…
I see others online reporting that KG is fireblight resistent. I am sure tempted to try it.
But also read that kieffer is self pollinating… but will produce more, perhaps better fruit if pollinated by another kieffer… or another euro pear that blooms same time.
What i dont know is if i had one imp kieffer pear tree and one korean giant… would they pollinate each other ? Produce good fruit ? Or would the fruit be a crazy mix of the two ?
Thanks