I have many cultivars of E.pear, A.pear in my yard. They all bloom in a narrow window like within a week Max. ( plus, buds in the same cluster don’t bloom at the same time either, usually delays for couple of days). So I can’t say if the Kieffer is able to pollinate the Korean Giant. I have never kept tracking which cultivars pollinate each other. I left that for the bees to decide.
All the pears fruits seemed 9match what they are supposed look like.
But If I use the seeds to grow new plants , then I might see hybridized crazy pears due to pollinated by different cultivars.
so in zone 6 we have a month of possibly freezes ahead. I looked and I did order some pear and plum scions. no figs this year, ran out of money too fast.
I’ve also got one apple I really really want to take to the graft. other thread says leaves the size of a squirrel or mouse ear with a dormant scion. last year only two of my many grafts took, I’m hoping that apple graft turns out to be a good one this year.
I’d be grafting them…but I’m busy as spring has come 20+ days early here (and also at your place I imagine).
Had hoped to take some Maxine scions at neighbor’s at my other place. Probably too late.
You should have 30 days or more still that you can do the graft to the callery seedlings…but I think the present is ok…only one night through March 7 is supposed to drop to 32F here.
If I can find a little free time I’ll be grafting real soon…done did 2 apples.
Have rootstocks arriving in 2 days.
Anji, are you field grafting or bench grafting? Field grafting would be grafting to a growing tree already in the garden, bench grafting being a graft place upon a root stock that has been dug / bare root and which you will plant after it’s grafted. If you’re field grafting, you can graft up until the leaves are the size of a squirrel ear (and before). If bench grafting, you can graft anytime. I prefer to bench graft and then place the grafted bare rootstock back in refrigeration until I plant it out. If I don’t have enough refrigeration, I often place the grafted trees in the coldest place I can find for at least 2 weeks, and then start hardening them off like you would veggie starts.
When I lifted our mulberry seedlings last year I was impressed at how yellow the roots are, there’s no mistaking them for something else. Those look good, I’ve thought about root grafting a few things this spring… did you also use the tape last year? I was thinking about just using parafilm.
Ok bench grafting methodology, I feel like this should be straight forward but hoping someone with more experience can comment. Last year for apples I went with parafilm and then a grafting rubber over top, followed by small piece of parafilm on over the tip. My question is, did the rubber actually increase take? Also thinking about having some melted beeswax on the bench this spring to dip the tips. Second question, how far to dip? For grapes everyone seems plunges them in over the union with the colored wax, and I found one video where a nursery did this with apple. Why isn’t that common for apples, or is it? Wouldn’t it help seal the scion and keep the parafilm on tight? I’ll AB test my methods this spring, but surely someone here has tried this out in every way possible.
This was my first time ever attempting a bark graft for avocado, done a little over a month ago. I think the bark wasn’t quite slipping yet, it split a little when I inserted the scion.
The branch was just a little too wide for a double-scion cleft graft, which I’ve done successfully a few times. The lowest bud on the graft has started pushing through the buddy tape already, so I’m cautiously optimistic this one will take:
I was not happy with the survival rate of “Royal-Wright” seedlings outside, so I am grafting it over to a"Mexicola Grande" on my largest greenhouse multi-graft tree.
I use parafilm on all grafts, and budding rubbers on grafts that weren’t as tight as I would have liked, so I use the rubber to draw the graft together. I dip the tips of the graft in latex paint to seal the end, just the tip, 1/8-1/4". I purchased some bench grafts a few years ago that were secured with parafilm and then dipped in wax and it worked very well. For bark grafts I always used toilet seal wax before I wrapped the graft with the green stretchy plant tying tape, but I no longer use the toilet wax as I feel it seeps into the graft and causes failure.
That’s right. I love seeing the rich colored mulberry roots.
I used parafilm at the union and then secured it with tape. If they take, I plan to leave the tape on through the growing season.
Last time I root grafted mulberries I also used tape but I didn’t give optimal conditions to callous. This time, I’m letting them heal in damp woodchips at a temperature around 77F, in a closed container.
I’m waiting after the storm to graft my sumo scions, this will be a bark graft, the trunk is very thick.
However, I did a splice graft here of GA-866 and it seems to have something pink, the GA-866 tree doesn’t have anything yet.
It’s kind of encouraging.
The rest of the 2 Sumo scions, I grafted with 3 different trees to separate the risk. Some locations might be better, who knows, but here are the other 2 scions, bark grafting after the rain is much easier.
I received some scions of “Prague” citsuma from Stan McKenzie a few days ago, I did three grafts yesterday and have one more planned for today. Here are a couple of them, a cleft graft on a small mandarin seedling and a modified cleft graft on the top of my Pixie mandarin:
I redid all the grafts for fig scions. Zero success using splice grafting. So now I did wedge grafting and modified cleft grafting. I wonder if this is the same as cleft grafting in a different name.
Specifically… i have scion wood of pristine, ark black, black limbertwig… that i want to graft onto established apple trees here.
I have three 4 yr old trees and one 20+ yr old tree that i can add grafts to.
I will be doing whip/toung grafts where scion diameter matches the wood I am grafting to. WIll probably do modified cleft where the diameters do not match.
My questions are on timing and rootstock wood age.
The wood that I graft to on my established trees… can i graft to either 1 or 2 year old wood ? Or possible even older wood ?
Does it matter the age of the wood you are grafting to in this situation ?
I have several trees displaying actual leaves (mostly red fleshed ‘crab’ apples)…but a couple / green.
Noticed my Esophus Spitzenburg is definitely farther along than the buds in your photo.
Younger limbs are easier, but if you get a good contact for the cambium, older limbs and even trunks can graft fine. Peeling bark back and inserting scions seems fine on larger limbs several years old.
I don’t have good healing of some of the cleft grafts on small limbs on existing trees.
I’m planning to graft a bunch of pawpaws this year and just received some scionwood and am wondering about how good it will be for grafting. Basically there is a leaf bud at the tip, then several buds and then what looks like dormant buds down the rest of the stick. Here are a couple of the sticks.
I would much rather see those active buds with the little start of leafs, but that isn’t the case for most of the buds on these. These are scions I paid for.
Thoughts on the dormant buds? What about the flower buds?
