2 - Gold Rush - both growing
2 - Kidds Orange Red - 1 growing, 1 dead
1 - Gloria Mundi - not growing, but still green
2 - Red Gravenstein - both growing
2 - Pear apple hybrid - both growing
1 - Little Rosybloom - very rapid growth
4 - Early Mcintosh - 3 growing, 1 that will probably still make it
2 - Red Cinnamon - 1 growing, 1 that is questionable
2 - Hanson Red - both growing
2 - Somerset Red - neither growing, but still green so maybe will make it.
2 - Arkansas Black - 1 growing fast, one that has not opened buds
2 - Glowing Heart - both growing
2 - Pristine - both growing
Summary: of 26 apple grafts made, 1 is dead, 3 have not opened buds but are still green and 22 are growing. Even with growing buds, they can still fail. I’m expecting most to be successful. The dead Kidds Orange Red was a poor scion. I’ll re-graft later this year or maybe next spring.
Difference between evergreen and deciduous grafts in spring in Nor. Cal.
White Sapote grafts done on Mar 10 or 11. Progress after month and a half. Cuccio is starting to bud out and if I squint my eyes I can see Leroy graft swelling up.
This year I was fortunate enough to obtain some 23 different plum varieties so it’s been a fairly busy schedule the last 3 weeks. Primarily adding to my Asian and native plum varieties to help improve my chances of cross pollination. So far my take seems to be batting around 90%. The most interesting pic I have is a 2022 graft of Kuban Comet as I started top working my neighbors red leaf flowering plum. This graft now sports 28 fruits this spring. Today I noticed 4 dropping off so it may shed more before mid season, but I was amazed to see the self fertility of this variety only one year after grafting.Between this one and Sweet Treat Pluery it’s a close contest for fertility! Can’t wait to test the ripe fruits of these.
Dennis
Kent, wa
I think that’ll work great for you. I’ve noticed that all of my dense multi graft plum spots did better this year on fruit set (can just barely tell at this point) than the isolated ones. my goal is to have a few pollinators in every Japanese plum tree now
This year is my first year really trying to graft and luckily i see some growth already after 3 weeks.
Redlands and li on some seedling jujube.
Izu and suruga on fuyu.
Pakistan mulberry on my silk hope.
I made like 12 graft attempts on my seedling feijoas…that wood was super brittle. White goose, dens choice, mammoth, Albert’s pride, edenvale improved. Nothing yet but I hear they are slow to callus.
Store bought satsuma orange that comes with stems attached. I selected fresh looking ones and grafted to citrus seeding. can’t remember growing from orange, grapefruit, or others’ seeds. Now,I have an orange plant.
Here I am struggling to graft citrus with fresh scions from CCPP ($$$) and carefully looking at several factors like when the rootstock is flushing, temperature outside, protecting grafts, etc and after several failures finally getting somewhat decent success rate. There you are using a puny old stem attached to a fruit onto some random seedling and immediately successful!!?! Not fair
I have been looking at the CCPP scions for few years. Its scions aren’t cheaper with the shipping cost. But it has many cultivars that I want to try. So I purposely grow seedings for grafting and hope one of the days I have collected enough seedings. Then I send in a bigger order to get every cultivars that I wanted and done for the rest of 5 years.
Hey all,
I did some peach grafting this year (onto Lovell rootstock) for practice/fun, on about 36 rootstock that I bought.
Grafted a bunch of Purple Girl peaches (side-note: this is the new name I’m renaming Black Boy to when giving away as gifts to people around the community, so I don’t get any raised eyebrows when I tell people the name of the variety … Would have thought RainTree and other nurseries would have renamed it by now as it did raise my eyebrow slightly as well … Although the other name I think I heard for it, “Peche de Vigne”, maybe is too fancy for us Americans).
Anyhoo, Here is a pic of one of the bags i put the grafts into (Its not in the pic, but i’ll throw alot of ProMix-B soil as well into the bag so the roots can grow and not dry out) …
I’ll separate them out in a month when I see which ones are successful.
.
My friend has them in his heated greenhouse (heat kicks on if its below 55F).
When should I start removing the leafy growth under the graft union?
Should I leave some below the graft for a while to provide photosynthesis energy for the graft or best to just remove right now?
Apples and Persimmon I usually remove that growth under the graft union pretty quick, so was just curious about peaches.
Tagging @Bradybb as he seemed to have some answers about peach grafting above.
Interesting, he says about 2-3" of under-the-graft-rootstock-union growth before cutting that growth off.
I’ll give that a shot in roughly 2-4 weeks then I think.
my apple are making buds. I hope they took, I really took my time with these two.
my really bad, no good, white wine in the garden plum grafts. I had one take last year so, I’ll keep my fingers crossed. they are clumsy and not that well done. I had knife fear that day.
next year will be jujube, pear and anything i can attach to a lilac. in fact does anyone know what will graft to a lilac? anything? even other flowers besides a lilac.
if my big mulberry doesn’t produce this year I’ll be top working it this time next year I think. I’m tired of looking at it empty. it’s 5 or more years old, a sucker from a heavily producing tree from my childhood neighborhood that’s very old. it hasn’t done a thing yet.
