I don’t know all the rules related to citrus quarantine, but given that you are not in a quarantined area, you can just get scions from a citrus hobbyist, right? Instead of going through CCPP?
Ok, that makes me feel a bit better 
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I’ve stopped removing growth below bench grafts until I know 100% that the graft took. I’ve killed too many rootstocks removing growth early. if it gets long I DO tip/pinch the growth in order to interrupt the whole apical dominance hormone thing but I’m not sure if that helps
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That is brilliant! I will give that a go.
I have grafted one cherry seedling this year and grafting was successful.
I have made this video about how to graft cherry :).
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I posted about watering daily. Here is the reason why. This graft is in a 5 gallon container exposed to the sun and wind. Yesterday we had all day bright sun along with 20 to 25 mph wind which desiccates plants in a hurry. The leaves are curled, twisted, and distorted by the lack of water. They were watered very well the previous day. In one day, sun, wind, and high spring temperatures did this to a Pristine grafted on B118. I watered heavily and today the plant is back to normal. If I had waited another day, this graft would be dead.
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they sound delicious too, that’s a rare combination.
got a AC Harrow sweet coming in a few weeks. will be the 1st. pear i plant on pear rootstock. its on semi dwarf rootstock. sounds like improved Kieffer needs to be grafted to it. 
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Keep Harrow sweet as is it is a great pear. Improved Kieffer is a canning pear. Harrow sweet is a delicious pear.
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i selected it mostly for its disease resistance and cold hardiness. but its good to know its a great tasting pear.
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@steveb4 — someone here was very generous to me on pear scions this year… I asked for Kieffer and Improved Kieffer… and they included a bunch of other varieties too… including Harrow Sweet, Potomac, Korean Giant, Ayers, and Orient.
I only had those two callery transplanted out in my field, and I grafted Kieffer and Imp Kieffer to them… I figure once I see them survive FB here… I will graft on a few other varieties.
I may have to try Harrow Sweet… and do plan to try Orient… I grafted Orient on some wild callery in the edge of my field and it is doing well… so I can get some scion wood there when needed.
I grafted Harrow Sweet, Potomac, Korean Giant onto a couple pears at my sisters house… per Orange Pippin those should all pollinate. Last I heard from them they were doing well. I may be able to get some scion wood from her in a couple years.
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what would be a good z3-4 pollination partner for it? i have nova, stacy and patten on my mountain ash i could graft on it.
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I put in a harrow delight this year, hoping to graft sweet to it next year if it’s done well. and if I can find scions
HD are pretty good I’ve heard but not HS level. resistance is a big deal here with all the commercial growers
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It is a late bloomer. Almost any group 3 or 4 bloomer will work. Not everything can handle that cold of a zone. That small yellow pear of mine will overlap it. Im guessing it can handle the cold. Im not sure which of those you mentioned overlap. Found one vague mention of pollen.
Varieties that will pollinate Harrow Sweet
An early-season American pear variety, related to Bartlett but with an improved flavor and better storage.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Bartlett
A classic English pear, easy to grow, and a good flavor.
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Flowering group: 3
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Partially self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Blake’s Pride
A modern fireblight resistant pear, which ripens mid-season, about a week later than Bartlett.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking:
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Brandy
A mid-season English perry pear which produces a low-tannin juice.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Butt
Butt is a traditional English perry pear, with medium acidity and medium tannins.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Flemish Beauty
A traditional European pear from Belgium, with the classic rich sweet buttery melting flesh. Flemish Beauty is also self-fertile and cold-hardy.
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Flowering group: 3
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Self-fertile
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Picking: Mid
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Gin
A rare English perry pear variety with good disease resistance and medium acid and tannins.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Very late
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Harrow Crisp
An attractive disease-resistant early-season pear with an orange flushed yellow skin, related to Bartlett and with a similar flavor.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Harrow Delight
Harrow Delight is an early-season Bartlett-style pear with a sweet flavor and good disease-resistance.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Hendre Huffcap
A well-known English perry pear variety, and a reliable cropper. Makes a light, low-tannin perry.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Honeysweet
Honeysweet is a self-fertile small late-season sweet pear, with buttery flesh, related to Seckel.
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Flowering group: 3
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Self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Hosui
Hosui has perhaps the best flavor of any Asian pear - it is very juicy and very sweet.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Korean Giant
Korean Giant has potentially the largest fruits of any Asian pear variety.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Maxine
Maxine is a traditional American pear, with good fire blight resistance.
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Flowering group: 4
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Mid
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Moonglow
A high quality early season dessert and culinary pear, very resistant to fireblight.
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Flowering group: 3
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Good pollinator
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Niitaka
Niitaka is an Asian pear variety producing very large crisp russeted fruits.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Mid
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Potomac
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Red Clapp’s Favorite
A red form of Clapp’s Favorite, also known as Kalle. The pears have a sweet flavor, and ripen in late summer.
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Flowering group: 4
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Shenandoah
Shenandoah is a late-season Bartlett-style pear, with a rich sweet/sharp flavor.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Shinko
A classic Asian pear, with large golden brown russeted fruits which have a crisp sweet flesh.
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Flowering group: 2
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Shinseiki
This popular early-season Asian pear variety produces crisp sweet-flavored pears, which can be kept for up to 3 months.
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Flowering group: 3
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Partially self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Shinsui
A popular and productive early-season Asian pear with a glowing golden brown skin and a sweet flavor.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Early
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Winnals Longdon
A traditional English perry pear variety, which produces a low tannin perry.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking: Late
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Yellow Huffcap
A popular English perry pear which produces a good quality low-tannin / medium-acid perry.
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Flowering group: 3
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Not self-fertile
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Picking:
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Yoinashi
Yoinashi is a mid-season Asian pear, with large golden brown russeted fruits.
- Flowering group: 3
- Not self-fertile
- Picking: Mid
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Started grafting hickory today. Burton Hican onto shagbark. Pecan seedlings to graft also. Near 90 Sunday. Should be time with this heat wave.
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I have buds breaking on all pear grafts made this year. Apples still look like 3 won’t make it. Scionwood quality is arguably the most important aspect of getting a successful graft.
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Pear grafts (about 15) have been doing well despite cold temps. All have leafed out. An animal (bird?) broke one but I had 2 more for insurance
Mulberries are slow to get going with cold weather but they should grow well with high temperatures staying above 70 over the next 10 days. Gerardi’s Dwarf the only one that hasn’t yet shown bud swell.
Grafted on 04-12-23
05-04-23
All 3 apple grafts have begun leafing out:
A couple persimmon grafts this evening posted in that respective thread.
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