Based on the diagnosis of KSDS and suggestions from members above I re-grafted this big 3 stem rootstock for the third time, but this time with all American cultivars.
The disease is pretty cruel since it lets the grafts callous and start to push and then kills the scions. When I checked the last round they were solidly calloused and I had to literally break them free to separate. Here is the chip graft I thought I was adding for safety but was doomed just like all the other kaki and hybrids I tried. Hopefully, it isn’t too late in the season and the Americans survive and get some good growth by fall.
Here are some much happier grafts on top of my Prok I’m working over. They were grafted the same time as my second attempt on the KSDS infected tree which was how I was sure something wasn’t right and expected it was diseased.
Some running repairs today. Somebody neglected to release the tie holding the new growth to the stake while making adjustments, and partially snapped the new shoot. I stuck it back together, sealed the outside of the wound with super glue, and splinted it as best I could with a toothpick. So long as the top doesn’t dry out, I expect it will mend as it’s still nice and green.
There is mounting evidence that KSDS is caused by Xylella fastidiosa. Persimmons in the southeast seem to be immune, but can harbor the bacteria. I’m curious if 90 chromosome northern persimmons are equally resistant?
Those are the two wild dv that I grew from seed last year. This spring grafted Kassandra on the larger one on left… and Nakittas Gift on the smaller one on the right.
if you are not bothering to stake them, you can pinch the top so they start branching and slow down to avoid vertical growth eventually breaking the graft.
Sometimes I’ve refrigerated my scions prior to whip and tongue grafting and sometimes not. Before, I never refrigerated. Success rate: 0%. Then I refrigerated. Success rate: 100%. Then I forgot to refrigerate. Success rate: 0%. I think I’m starting to see a pattern.
A few more grafts for this year. Got some budwood of Dar Sofiyivki courtesy of @hobilus and put it right on some rootstocks. 6 buds on 4 roots. If even one takes I’ll be thrilled!
I had a limb break in a storm before bud break this year. Lots of new shoots. I did some pruning as there were too many new shoots. I took the trimmings and prepared them for rooting. Nothing to lose I thought. I hear it can be done. So anyone had success rooting summer cuttings?
I grafted the other half of the budstick I sent you @jcguarneri. I went for all side grafts- a couple of side cleft/veneer and an inlay. 5 buds on 3 field grown rootstocks.
I really like the look of that technique. I considered going that route, but there was too much of a diameter mismatch. I’ll probably try that out in future years.
I need more persimmon trees like I need a hole in the head, but I can’t/won’t stop grafting.
now that you mention it, that sounds handy. that way all of the excess persimmon thoughts will be able to dissipate harmlessly!
The side graft is one the most versatile I find. You can get away with a 1/4” scion on 1/2” rootstock (in which case its truly a veneer graft). Any bigger than that, and the bark gets too thick for a good match without peeling the bark back. I always worry with T-buds as you did that there will be voids in there, though its obviously tried and true.
Side grafts work well for me but then I struggle to obtain a strong crotch that will support the weight of a fruited branch. Just curious as to your process once the sidegraft takes.
Last year I had a Kasandra take with a similar graft that I did on my neighbors tree. It has grown very aggressively. But the primary growth was one vertical shoot, and one shoot growing at a 45 degree angle (the one I have trimmed so far for scion material).
The graft:
There are two smaller shoots that grow parallel to the rootstock limb that I grafted onto and cut off just beyond the graft. My concern is that fruit and wind loading on the two faster growing branches will cause a rotation torque that could rip open this graft.
For now I have rewrapped the graft with more secure plastic tapes and secured with twist ties, I will obtain the Velcro plant tie material you mentioned in another posting to better secure the graft. I am considering removing both of the larger shoots for grafting scions, and leaving only the shoots that grow directly outward from the graft to continue growth. That should eliminate any rotation torque on the graft.
Any comments you can provide would be appreciated.
Also once you have a side graft growing from a vertical trunk, how do you secure the wide angle crotch that provides the strength needed to support the limb when fruit loaded? I have a few like that and for now I usually stake them up.
Dennis
Kent, Wa
Hmmm, the devil is always in the details isnt it. It sounds to me like youre topworking to create a multigraft tree. Its a little bit hard to figure out the context without seeing the tree.
My intention is generally speaking to graft over the entire tree to a new variety. I do like doing multiple grafts though, and if conditions lend themselves, I may let these turn into separate scaffolds. If the scion is suitable, Ill usually do a single bud per graft and train it vertically. I like to graft at about 2 -3 ft high if i can, leaving the top growth in place as a ready made stake and bird perch.
