You should still be good. I’ve grafted as late as the end of July with success.
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Thats been about my experience as well
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Thanks for the encouragement @PharmerDrewee and @hobilus
Here are some much happier grafts on top of my Prok I’m working over. They were grafted the same time as my second attempt on the KSDS infected tree which was how I was sure something wasn’t right and expected it was diseased.
Gora Roman Kosh on a larger side shoot.
GRK on the leader as well
Lena on a side shoot not looking as vigorous so hopefully it doesn’t get orphaned
And Ruby on another good sized side shoot.
They’re a bit overdue to get tied off to the bamboo supports so I need to get to that before the next storm.
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Some running repairs today. Somebody neglected to release the tie holding the new growth to the stake while making adjustments, and partially snapped the new shoot. I stuck it back together, sealed the outside of the wound with super glue, and splinted it as best I could with a toothpick. So long as the top doesn’t dry out, I expect it will mend as it’s still nice and green.
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There is mounting evidence that KSDS is caused by Xylella fastidiosa. Persimmons in the southeast seem to be immune, but can harbor the bacteria. I’m curious if 90 chromosome northern persimmons are equally resistant?
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Check out the new growth on my new little IKKJ.
Glad to see that.
Those are the two wild dv that I grew from seed last year. This spring grafted Kassandra on the larger one on left… and Nakittas Gift on the smaller one on the right.
Both grafts are doing well.
WS8-10… out the top of the cage.
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These late season grafts of early golden are growing faster than i want them to! Have big hands and the leaves are bigger than my hands!
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Checked zima khurma today… looking good now. Those dang psyllid almost did it in but looks like it has beat them now.
My CDR is still struggling some with psyllid. Going to spray it again this evening.
Near ZK i have this nice little wild dv… it is getting nice and fruity this year.
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if you are not bothering to stake them, you can pinch the top so they start branching and slow down to avoid vertical growth eventually breaking the graft.
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My JT02 graft… central leader approaching 90 inches tall.
Got a nice pole support in place now with it tied down.
That is going to be one heck of chunk of nice size scionwood.
Rich Tooie is doing really well… best of my larger rootstock barkgrafts. I have it supported well now too.
This JT02 is over… dang psylliads kept wearing it out… it finally gave up. Going to let those wild shoots from the rootstock grow now.
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Sometimes I’ve refrigerated my scions prior to whip and tongue grafting and sometimes not. Before, I never refrigerated. Success rate: 0%. Then I refrigerated. Success rate: 100%. Then I forgot to refrigerate. Success rate: 0%. I think I’m starting to see a pattern.
John S
PDX OR
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A few more grafts for this year. Got some budwood of Dar Sofiyivki courtesy of @hobilus and put it right on some rootstocks. 6 buds on 4 roots. If even one takes I’ll be thrilled!
And I got every last bud off that stick.
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I had a limb break in a storm before bud break this year. Lots of new shoots. I did some pruning as there were too many new shoots. I took the trimmings and prepared them for rooting. Nothing to lose I thought. I hear it can be done. So anyone had success rooting summer cuttings?
I grafted the other half of the budstick I sent you @jcguarneri. I went for all side grafts- a couple of side cleft/veneer and an inlay. 5 buds on 3 field grown rootstocks.
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I really like the look of that technique. I considered going that route, but there was too much of a diameter mismatch. I’ll probably try that out in future years.
I need more persimmon trees like I need a hole in the head, but I can’t/won’t stop grafting.
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now that you mention it, that sounds handy. that way all of the excess persimmon thoughts will be able to dissipate harmlessly!
The side graft is one the most versatile I find. You can get away with a 1/4” scion on 1/2” rootstock (in which case its truly a veneer graft). Any bigger than that, and the bark gets too thick for a good match without peeling the bark back. I always worry with T-buds as you did that there will be voids in there, though its obviously tried and true.
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Side grafts work well for me but then I struggle to obtain a strong crotch that will support the weight of a fruited branch. Just curious as to your process once the sidegraft takes.
Last year I had a Kasandra take with a similar graft that I did on my neighbors tree. It has grown very aggressively. But the primary growth was one vertical shoot, and one shoot growing at a 45 degree angle (the one I have trimmed so far for scion material).
The graft:
Notice the one I trimmed at a 45 degree angl to horizontal:
There are two smaller shoots that grow parallel to the rootstock limb that I grafted onto and cut off just beyond the graft. My concern is that fruit and wind loading on the two faster growing branches will cause a rotation torque that could rip open this graft.
For now I have rewrapped the graft with more secure plastic tapes and secured with twist ties, I will obtain the Velcro plant tie material you mentioned in another posting to better secure the graft. I am considering removing both of the larger shoots for grafting scions, and leaving only the shoots that grow directly outward from the graft to continue growth. That should eliminate any rotation torque on the graft.
Any comments you can provide would be appreciated.
Also once you have a side graft growing from a vertical trunk, how do you secure the wide angle crotch that provides the strength needed to support the limb when fruit loaded? I have a few like that and for now I usually stake them up.
Dennis
Kent, Wa
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Hmmm, the devil is always in the details isnt it. It sounds to me like youre topworking to create a multigraft tree. Its a little bit hard to figure out the context without seeing the tree.
My intention is generally speaking to graft over the entire tree to a new variety. I do like doing multiple grafts though, and if conditions lend themselves, I may let these turn into separate scaffolds. If the scion is suitable, Ill usually do a single bud per graft and train it vertically. I like to graft at about 2 -3 ft high if i can, leaving the top growth in place as a ready made stake and bird perch.
This one still has its old leader (stake/bird perch) on the right. You can get a sense how much growth there was from the caliper of old vs new. The middle stem is the growth from last years graft, which aborted back to near the graft after the hard frost in mid-May
This one got too spindly and needed a stake this year
These next 3 all have their old leader clipped after training new growth up it for a season.
I did some topworking this year in which i am adding scaffolds rather than growing a songle whip. Two techniques Im playing with- one where there is already a scaffold structure in place, the other where there is not. The second pic features 3 side grafts done in close proximity, hopefully forming scaffolds. Bud placement is important in this type of situation
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