Do you think those will grow this year? Or is the goal to overwinter them? Definitely planning on overwintering the t buds.
I think theyll push now. Dunno honestly, as Ive never tried. I just did some greenwood grafts of ‘Black Prince’ mulberry though (thanks @george), and this one is perking right up after only 2 days. Those buds would definitely push if you topped the green shoot, so why not now, I figure
2 Likes
Cool. I look forward to seeing what comes of it. The bark on that stick you sent me was slipping well enough that I considered grafting a budless patch of it on and seeing if I could take advantage of persimmon’s proclivity for adventitious buds. I wouldn’t want to count on it, but I bet it would work.
1 Like
yeah, ditto yours. good to compare notes. Im glad I didnt toss that shoot when I clipped it. Your timing was perfect.
That Dar Sofiyevki pushed from two places just above the graft, and I had to pick one and run with it. Its should size up well by seasons end, I expect
That was pretty darn green, but it was lignified and the buds seemed well formed. If it were taken much later, the graft wouldn’t have had time to grow and harden off much. Maybe your idea of keeping it until next year would make sense in that case.
2 Likes
Thinking a bit more about how I would approach it, using my preferred method, i would probably place the graft just below a well formed existing scaffold. It would likely be a bark inlay rather than the side veneer. Id lop the end off the scaffold and make sure all epicormic growth was pinched back through the season. By the end of the season, a new scaffold with similar form and placement should be in place.
One other suggestion is to use leverage to your advantage when binding the new growth with the existing. A well cinched double loop of that velcro tie a few inches above the graft and another on the graft itself add so much strength, that the graft union can then withstand a lot more movement of the new topgrowth.
If all else fails, your idea of pruning makes sense to me. Better to be a little conservative in checking the scion growth than to lose the whole thing.
That Dar S has really taken off since you last posted a pic of it!
1 Like
A couple of grafts at various stages. They appear to have all taken.
These are Mikatani Gosho and Gora Roman Kosh
8 Likes
This persimmon was late to leaf out this Spring. It seemed fine for a while once it did break dormancy. A week ago, I noticed the leaves began to fold up. They quickly turned brown and fell off. It seems like it might be a goner. I’m trying to figure out the reason though.
1 Like
its always amazing how quickly they can grow when they want to.
2 Likes
I figured why buy anything like stakes when i have tons of hackberry, osage orange , etc. to use for stakes just not much time! Who needs bamboo? Was running out of daylight!
7 Likes
I love using “found” stakes when I can. One time, I made the mistake of using some Japanese quince without knowing they rooted readily. I’ve never had such high-maintenance stakes!
1 Like
Just make sure you stake the fast growing grafts because the graft unions are not that strong yet. the wind will snap them right off. Lesson learned!!!
2 Likes
It is coming a storm here now… big wind on the front end. I watched several of my tall grafts… which are wind protected… they did just fine…
After the wind now and the rain is pouring down. Another good rain in July… we dont always get these.
that is crazy. do you have a detailed soil analysis (including micronutrients)?
@ansayre … sorry I don’t.
I just selected a nice little wild dv that was growing there last fall and put a nice layer of partially composted wood chips around it.
I grafted it this spring… and have done nothing else but put some grass clippings around it.
Not one bit of fertilizer.
These little wild dv’s just grow very well in my fields… and prok and several others grafted to them are doing very well.
They usually have extra large leaves the year you graft them. They will be smaller next year more than likely. But man those leaves are green! Beautiful.
2 Likes
Am curious if a deer can stick his snout right through the large openings in your cages and munch away? Any deer damage?
@hambone … they could for sure but have not.
I have many persimmon seedlings in my fields with no cage… and have never seen one with deer browse.
My cages are more for buck rub protection and they also help with wind.
That prok is 2 ft out the top of the cage now… i will put a rod up today and tie the longer central leader to it. It has wind support ties at the top of the cage… but once they get much taller than the cage… i put a rod up to support the central leader better.
My JT02 graft central leader is over 90 inches long now. I have it supported well.
My WS8-10… is just a bit smaller than prok… about a foot above the cage now. It has some hugs leaves now too. I will support that central leader with a rod today.
Rich tooie… is a bark graft to a 5 inch wild dv and it is getting very tall… i have it tied to a support rod.
We had some nasty wind with a thunderstorm this week and all of my tall grafts did just fine.
I have a silk hope mulberry in a similar cage… and it has grown out the top of the cage now. So far not one bit of deer browse on it either. I know they browse mulberry… they have hit my gerardi a few times. I am going to give it more protection soon. I have some chicken wire and that should stop deer browse…
2 Likes
Update on my JT02 graft… pic above of it and my 8 ft step ladder.
The central leader on it is now 94 inches long… from the bud on the scion to the tip of that shoot… 94 inches. Almost 8 ft of growth from the bud.
It has some really nice leaves too… not hardly as large as Prok but still very nice.
9 Likes