I’m trying to catalog a running list of every time I ran across something that I didn’t learn until actually diving in and making a couple hundred grafts – this is something to add to the list!
On a similar vein, I noticed some of my apple grafts on B9 are callousing a deep red, while others are callousing more of an off-white/green. I was kind of wondering how much callous tissue is produced from the scion vs. the rootstock (always assumed the rootstock was the primary source) and I wonder if this indicates that it can really vary.
Unfortunately the bottom 4 laterals go to 24 inches and they are oriented almost in one plane. Two point WNW and two point ESE. No huge hurry, but certainly appreciate the guidance.
I’ve included a video as well. It’s starting to rain again so I may need to get better info /photos tomorrow evening my time.
A last photo José. I tied up the upper branches to show the orientation of the lower 4 laterals. Unfortunately they are almost in one plane with little spread. Not ideal.
I wonder if I pruned close to the main trunk on a few of those branches with the last leaf facing the direction I want the branch to grow to the open space. As the cut shoot pushes new growth pick the one facing the open space. Just a thought.
Here is che I grafted onto osage orange last year in the woods. I grafted norris and male scions. It’s the most vigorous graft I’ve ever seen. I even got to taste the fruit. It was very sweet. This year all the branches have flowers, I grafted the edible landscaping variety onto a branch but it be might redundant since the norris was tasty.
Nice to see another vote against the one person who usually jumps into every discussion of che to claim the fruit is terrible and no one could possibly like it. Seems like we’re up to about 8 to 1 now in terms of forum members who like it vs those who don’t. Can’t wait until mine start producing. Looks like both of the grafts that I may have done a bit too early this year are starting to push buds. These are on osage orange rootstocks from Fruitwood Nursery, scionwood from England’s.
Bonus shot – I put my extra scionwood in soil on a heating pad to root, and those are quite a bit further along. They will be for my planned impenetrable hedge. Here’s Chul Ri:
First of all, you have to see if there are shoots with proper orientation just a little higher or lower (even if they are smaller shoots).
If there are none, we use these three, placing tutors, to give the branches the orientation that interests us.
I remember that. He made it seem like the taste was aweful. I’m not going to say it was the best fruit I’ve tasted, but it was good and it replaces a thorny tree I have no use for. Hopefully it only gets better.
I don’t think you have to worry about your grafts. If it’s anything like mine, it can’t be stopped.
He was the best Che salesman of all time imo. I’m rather contrarian by nature so if something is described as incredible, or terrible; I’m equally interested to try it with fruit. I think a Che tree must have killed his parents when he was young or something tho haha full blown crusade like no other.
Update: the one I moved it still pushing more so I decided to double down on it: I moved three more peach trees. In digging them up I got nearly all the roots, I fertilized with slow-release at planting, I watered well, and I put aluminum on the leafing out grafts to limit their sun exposure.
Now it’s a matter of waiting. Brilliant, or idiot? What will the conclusion be?
I’m seeing some delayed failure of cherries on chokecherry now. Seems no matter how careful I am and baby them they just wont take. I have some Americana coming in soon and i hope inter stem might help per advice form canadian nursery man. The same chokecherry seems to be having no issues with the italian plums. I’ve also tried with green gage, peach and nectarine. Sap flow seems weak though on these - nectarien looks best but still look like may fail.
I tried this year with a half dozen that i moved to my Moms house. The growth on the grafts stopped dead on all of them. I covered with plastic bags to maintain humidity and it looks like 2 are going to be fine. The other 4 or 5 are questionable at best and possibly dead. Not sure if its doable or is a case where make more sense to wait a year. Others thoughts?
Interesting comment on callus color. Ill get pictures of a few in a couple weeks ’ u have 4 unknown heirlooms from trees that have been growin for probably 100 years plus in the national forest. Two of them seem quite unique. One has odd spur growth/angles etc almost like pear - more knobby I guess. Another has a very differnt tan colored wood all the way through. Wish I’d gotten pictures before i taped em up. @svr68 - maybe you could post one of the scions before you tape up. They are truly different than I’ve seen. Anyway my point was that i wonder how that will impact the callus color? Or if there’s any correlation at all?
My more reluctant apple grafts are finally waking up - except Ontario. Is it more finicky about rootstock selection ( one is a seedling the other is Eiserapfel )? I still have some scions in the fridge and M9 and M106 in pots…
