I use Osmocote, their all-around kind.
All the transplanted peaches are still looking good, I am getting more optimistic it will work.
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Of pears grafted, 5 so far appear to have failed. I had 2 or 3 grafts of each variety so one or more trees of each is growing. Blake’s Pride was accepted on 2 grafts and failed on 2 more. One Shenandoah and one Maxine failed. I also lost one Red Asian from Tony.
Of apples, most are just now beginning to grow. I saw 8 with up to an inch of growth and several with green buds.
Pecans are 8 days from graft so not much to see yet. A few have green buds which is promising. But I learned the hard way that sometimes a pecan will grow a couple of inches and still fail.
Grafted some twigs from an unknown but very productive two variety tree a friend of mine has to a wild crabapple of some sort. Tentatively looking like they might have taken…
Dar Sofiyvky- Using the smallest twig and a weird modified whip and tongue on this one because it’s at the end of the stick. Trying to squeeze as many buds as I can here. The scion is about 3* mm (a little bit more than 1/8").
This is on the border of ‘They said it can’t be done, and I’m going to try anyway’ as far as I’m concerned 
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disc4, .3 mm is about the size of a grain of sand. 3 mm is what you are after.
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Yes! Thanks for the correction. Late night grafting is a rarity with the kiddos actually asleep for more than 10 minutes of free time. Needless to say my brain only has so much computing available currently.
Edit- I did 5 grafts on 4 trees so hopefully I get at least one take… Attempting to do at least 3 of each new variety to begin with this year, especially the ones I’m not sure I’ll be able to get again.
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Best pictures i could get in dark after work. But the interior of this wood is a an odd tan as well. Anyone else seen this on an heirloom old old tree?
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My experience this year really lines up with the ordering of grafting difficulty between species. I went through my grafts and graded them on an A-F scale (A-C = seem like takes based on callous/buds, D = not optimistic, F = fail) and here’s what it’s looking like for grafts that have had 5-7 weeks to heal:
Apple: 29/35
Apricot: 1/1
Cherry: 1/15 (!)
Medlar: 3/4
Peach: 2/3
Pear: 9/18
Plum: 8/10
Quince: 1/2
I figure I’ll take a stab at summer budding many of my failures, and use a few others to make a stooling bed or whatever else is the optimal means of propagation (I think my K1s are still on patent but fortunately those mostly took). Shipping budwood across the country in summer seems a bit dicey, but at $5/stick definitely seems like it’s worth a shot.
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Bloody beginner here, my first attempts at (hybrid) persimmons on d. lotus. My rootstock was quite thin, but the buds are pushing nicely.
Hoverla
Tone Wase
Dar Sofiyivky
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Some medlar grafts i did 2-3 weeks …
PS temps good for pawpaw or persimmon yet on zone 7a/b? (Philadelphia)
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Was that bench grafting? Probably too cold for outdoors in zone 5a.
In my field persimmon graft, should I remove the lower buds or let them grow to give the tree energy? The graft is alive but buds haven’t pushed yet. Gonna remove the holding tape to see if it is calloused black yet, but I typically wouldn’t disturb a graft at all, first time grafting a persimmon and I know they are slow to push growth but not sure on whether or not to remove lower buds pushing. I’d be fine leaving a lower branch or two of Hanafuyu having the top be all coffee cake, any input is greatly appreciated thanks
I’m not as far along in the growing season as a lot of you other guys, so this is my 1st post in this 2024 thread. FWIW:
- I have begun top-working Black Ice plum because it proved susceptible to both blossom rot and black knot. These grafts are LaCrescent. I need a pollinator for Alderman (the mass of white blossoms in the background). Toka is next on the list of grafts.
- I also decided to top-work my Kokuso mulberry, leaving one scaffold for Kokuso. The other three scaffold have grafts of Oscar, Silk Hope and a local Unknown (that routinely bears a huge crop of good fruit). These grafts all have swelling buds and there’s some show of green, but it’s too soon for me to say that they’ve succeeded. Stay tuned.
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FWIW, I also top worked a bunch of dwarf apple trees – all disappointing experimental cider varieties. Replacements are all dessert applies. Apple grafts are so old hat for me now that I won’t bother posting pictures.
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Persimmon grafts come in two bunches:
a. >3 weeks ago I grafted Taishu, Cardinal, Matsumotowase Fuyu (2), and Nikita’s Gift to 5 potted seedling DVs given a head start under lights in the warm basement. At this point, buds are swelling on all of them but so far leaves are showing only on the Nikita’s Gift:
b. I plan to graft soon H-118 to an in-ground seedling as well as both H-118 and Nikita’s Gift to my formerly Prok frankentree. At that point the tree will hold 5 Americans, 1 Asian and 2 hybrids. New grafts on this established tree fruit the following year, so it is a very useful proving ground for promising varieties.
Edit: OK, I couldn’t wait. My American trees are breaking bud, so I figured I’d graft H-118. I put 4 bark grafts around a branch on my former Prok; and I did a W&T on a small in-ground seedling. I’ll probably do NG on the Prok tomorrow.
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Looks like Rossyanka persimmon on D. lotus has taken:
The other two grafts on the same rootstock (H-55A and D. texana) still not budging. It’s only been about 4 or 5 weeks since I grafted them, though, so plenty of time left to still succeed.
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I went through grafts today and disbudded rootstocks. Pecan grafts are at 9 days and a few have green buds expanding. Even when a bud expands, a pecan graft may still fail. You can only tell for sure when new growth is 4 inches or more.
I have a couple of notes worth mentioning. I made a bunch of apple and persimmon grafts and put them in a large container of potting mix on my front porch. They get early morning light but are shaded the rest of the day. I also potted up several grafts and put them on the north side of my house but where most are exposed to full sun. The grafts on my porch look far better than those in direct sun. I will remember this for future grafting. I also had a few grafts where the rubber tape unwrapped a bit at the top. My process is now to wrap an extra layer at the top of the graft to prevent unwinding.
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I did these grafts of journey hybrid a few weeks back… looking promising.
H118 and H63A looking pretty good too.
The most recent grafts of Mohler… showing a little bud swell.
Dar Sofiyivky and Saijo… not doing much yet.
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If you are referring to growth coming from the stock (below the graft), I judiciously rub all those off on persimmon. I do this weekly throughout the growing season.
Persimmon really likes to shed its lower limbs as it grows, so it makes keeping limbs of other varieties difficult if the tree decides it’s time to shed it. Hope this helps.
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What rootstock are you using for your pears this year? I’ve noticed quite a bit of variability among rootstocks as far as graft % success.