Thanks for the kind words. The length for the G41 Interstem rootstock is about 3-4inches. I’ll be burying the G41 graft union to aviod suckering (Heard it was a problem with interstem grafts).
This is my 2nd year of doing apple grafting (Very addictive).
You and i think alike 
. I’m doing this also with G890. I not sure if I’ll be lucky to get more of those Rootstocks here in Jamaica next season (2025).
Question, how long did it take for your interstem graft trees to bear fruit?
Nice looking callousing on your grafts. Multi-grafting mulberries works great. Most of my mulberries trees are multi-grafted.
That’s what I do with all my losers. Santa Rosa had one last branch this year and now it’s gone. Don’t give up on the Toka. The fruit are not big, but they taste great. Mine took this year off though.
I have a few trees planted out in the fall of 2020 fruiting for the first time this year. All G41/M111 interstems. Don’t take that as a measure of the likely first fruiting age though. My orchard area is sunlight “challenged” and there was extreme deer predation for at least a few years. I hopefully have that under control with a fence now. Hopefully extended up quite a bit taller this winter.
Some of us have discussed interstem length in other threads on this site. “Supposedly” the longer it is the more the dwarfing effect is apparent. Up to a point, I think 8 to 9 inches has been quoted. That’s why I went with 12 inches, to try and ensure their size is fairly controlled. Anyway, will be interesting to see what kind of overall tree height you have in comparison
I had the same thing happen on a pear. I bought Kieffer. It needed pruning. I grafted a couple of the scions to an established Harrow’s Delight. At the time, the HD was reasonably productive. Next season the grafts produced so many fruit that one of the supporting branch broke – below the graft! The graft held but the supporting branch broke! Meanwhile, the purchased trees produced nothing. Now, a couple years later, the purchased tree has a small crop but the surviving grafted branch has a huge load. I’m gonna have to thin the fruit and support the branch to prevent more damage.
I don’t have a ton of experience using grow tubes. My slow growing Golden Russet Bosc finally started growing well and looking good, about to peak out the top. I pulled up the sleeve to take a look, thinking I might transition to a cage only to discover a wimpy shoot from the graft union and what was likely a shoot from the rootstock that was the one looking so nice.
Fortunately I’d also bought a bargain tree from one of the big nurseries that is doing well, and now I won’t feel as bad if I graft this one over to Abate Fetel when I get some scion wood.
I only see them used here for young grape vines. I don’t think I could use one if I wanted to - I go around peeking at all my grafts daily until they take and still very often after. I’d keep lifting the tube too often. Anyways, grafting on vigorous seedlings, I sometimes have to remove rootstock buds every other day or the same would happen to me. This year, it’s been happening on apples, pears, quinces and hawthorns - lots of moisture and milder weather.
This particular graft is a little special, because it’s on a quince, which is used for slower growth. Not this one… Though I’m not so surprised as I have a summer blood pear growing like crazy on one from the same batch of seedlings.
Thanks! Never stacked grafts like tgis before, and Im sure youre not supposed to, but why not give it a shot if you have a lot of scion to test
You graft your own tomatoes? Very impressed. I thought it required surgical technique, a near-sterile field, and a microscope.
Nowhere near that difficult though it is a skilled technique. A humidity chamber is required along with some razor blades and grafting clips. Johnny Seeds has everything needed.
Back in early May… managed to get some Kip Parker and Lawson Dawson mulberry scion.
I ordered some russian mulberry rootstock from BRN and got those pretty quick.
Potted them up and on May 31 they looked like this.
Now just a short while later check out this kip parker graft. All were succesful… but this one is growing very well.
TNHunter
My RDB on Chicago Hardy chip bud seems to have taken and is maybe starting to grow. This was mostly to test my newfound understanding that chip buds should actually have a size mismatch between bud and landing spot. The idea is that it ensures contact at top and bottom without worrying about the sides.
Hopelessly shaded, but we’ll see what happens.
My understanding is also that mismatch is fine/better but one side should be lined up.
I started looking at photos of how they do it at scale. They don’t even bother trying to line up the sides. If you have a large landing spot and the chip extends past that at the top, contact is all but guaranteed.
Look at the first photo here and you see what I mean.
https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/06-grafting/03-buddingtypes/02-grafting-budchip.html
That is an interesting site. I especially like those grafting trolleys 
I did quite a few chip buds this year and typically matched up the cambium on both sides. I noticed that callous formed/started at the same spot that yours is at. I have no idea why, but just thought that it was weird. Maybe there is more to it. I might try less on matching the sides going forward.
Rose bush bud grafted. Seems to have worked okay. But now I’m wondering where the growth started from on the callus.
Back on April 6… grafted my CHE to osage orange.
The whip tounge graft after 2 ft of growth and removing tape and parafilm.
Today… June 28…over 4 ft of growth.
Anyone know what’s going on here? A couple Potamac pear grafts that I uncovered a week or so ago (had them wrapped in tin foil prior since I grafted kind of late may 31). They were looking great until the last two days. Something to do with the heat or abundant rain lately? This was my first year grafting so no real experience here…
Looks like sun burn or heat damage to me. New growth should continue undamaged. A lot of my plants coming out of the greenhouse in spring get a bit burnt.
