My first graft ever a few years back.
Gerardi bark graft to a lopped off white mulberry stump.
It went very well… 6 ft of growth first season.
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I’m still very impressed by the cuts on your first grafts. I see experienced people make whittling cuts that look like garbage. The bungee cord was a little crazy though. Whatever works.
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@murky … we call those tarp straps.
You might be a red neck if you ever used a tarp strap for the final wrap on a mulberry graft 
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Isn’t duct tape customary for keeping something stuck together there in red neck Country? 
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So this is a whip n tongue Gravenstein on Red delicious. The scion wood was barely over half the diameter of the rootstock. After 2 1/2 month it has about 14 inches of new growth.
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My first Lawson Dawson graft…
My two Kip Parker grafts… those were grafted same day as the first LD.
Kip Parker seems like a stronger grower so far.
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I was taking the tape off some of my early grafts today and noticed this.
The initials EBP… on your scion of So Mtn Everbearing Plumcot.
Nice whip/tounge… the shoot from that scion has grown close to 5 ft.
My strong growing persimmon this year…
H63A… it has reached 7 ft … i am going to head it back to 6 and hope the rest of the year it makes some scaffold branches.
One of my Mohler grafts… this one was done modified cleft.
Nice callousing on the MC.
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that is some nice, clean callousing!
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Just got my loquat scions from Marta and stuck 3 up immediately. Avri, Kando, and Angelino, I’ll find some spot for the multiples she sent. Never grafted with 90* days before but we will see how they take 
Apple grafted onto hawthorn has some success so far. I did 3 grafts. One has pushed perhaps 14 inches. One about 5 inches, and another is barely hanging in there. They were all extremely slow starters.
This wasnt the healthiest rootstock, and it’s growing in a thicket of invasive nastiness. Oriental bittersweet, multiflora rose, autumn olive, and swallow-wort. And throw in some native nasty plants too, virginia creeper, poison ivy, other hawthorns. Ugh. 
Here’s the best one. I think this might be ‘Trailman’ but the tag fell off.
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I tried grafting 2 varieties to the same stalk this year on this Mulberry. I’ve never tried it before, and had no idea if it would work, but they did end up taking. (I did accidentally knock off the top one and had to very carefully regraft 2 weeks after the initial graft)
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I wasn’t sure where to put this post . . . but it’s about grafting.
Can someone tell me why it seems that a graft will produce fruit quickly on a tree that has been reluctant to set fruit?
I have Shiro plum grafts on a Toka and also on the Santa Rosa right next to it. The Shiro grafts were added in 2022. The trees have been growing since 2016 or so . . . and have had very few fruit.
The Shiro branches went ‘nuts’! Same thing for a couple of other varieties of plum grafts.
And - the grafts were not put in especially good places! I don’t get it???
Same thing happened on other trees - the grafts outperform the trees! Why???
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I guess today is the last day we can call it “spring” grafting, right? Tomorrow it’ll be summer grafting!
I added two scions of “Linh” to one of the more vigorous in-ground avocado trees this morning. This tree is Seedling #84, a seedling of “Royal-Wright” that was planted out around this time in 2021. It has grown very large each year since then, but gets killed above ground from even a relatively mild freeze each winter, so I’m hoping a low graft will work, especially if I mound mulch up above the graft.
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Toka has fruited well for me, but Santa Rosa is nothing short of a freeloader and was removed this year. Others on the east coast report the same for SR. Shiro is a fruiting monster. It fruits fast and furious. Not a 5 star plum, but I like it. No matter what I can count on Shiro.
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Yeah. This is pretty much my story, too, with Santa Rosa. And the Japanese Beetles love it . . . so I’ve started using it as a beetle lure. I have a couple of pomegranate varieties that have the same job!
This year was the first year that we had any plums at all, on SR. Maybe a fluke. I use it as a grafting ‘host’, for the most part.
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June update: Apple Grafts done in May 
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I’m starting to experiment with interstem/interstock grafting ( Particularly with G41 & Seedling Rootstocks).
I like the idea of having Multi-graft apple trees, due to limited space. However, the only drawback, is that if you graft a infected scionwood on the tree, you stand a chance of losing the whole tree (which happened to me this year).
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It’s like the dude that gets out of prison after 10 years. Gonna hit every brothel in town until he is out of money.
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Looks good… I also chose G41 to have smaller trees, as opposed to less larger but multi-grafted trees. I too do mostly interstem with G41/M111 or G41/SEEDLING.I have a few G41 growing that I can cut interstem pieces in the spring and seedlings as well are free 
Curious how long of an interstem piece you’re using? I’ve been making that part about 12" and upon planting I bury at least 4 or 5" of it. Oldest trees are 4yrs and a few have perhaps reached 8’ at the max with the bulk of the branches lower than that. My orchard area is somewhat steep, I’d rather just avoid ladders.
Anyway, good luck.
