it’s 100+ here since last week. I’m waiting until next weekend out if necessity; it’s dry as a bone too
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Is it possible to graft black walnut or jujube this time of year (mid-July)? I still have scion wood in the fridge, but never got around to doing the grafting. What technique would you recommend for each of those?
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I have never grafted either, but I have good success in winter/early spring and summer, I haven’t tried anything in autumn. I think you should use tin foil like I did, I always use tin foil for “evergreen grafts” such as loquat, feijoa, citrus, guava etc.
It will provide a bit of protection from the heat and keeping it from drying out. I always buddy tape the entire scion which is definitely essential for any summer grafting. I would tend to say let the grafting fire away, because likely the scion wood won’t last until next “grafting season” so why not try a few now @cottonwood good luck!
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An inlay bark graft may work on walnut. I would not do whip & tongue or 3/4 flap.
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Even if the rootstock is fairly small diameter?
inlay bark grafts infer a rootstock at least 1 inch diameter. Anything smaller would need a different type graft. As I suggested, my experience with late grafts using whip & tongue and 3/4 flap has been 100% failure. I have used greenwood budding in late July with some success. You might be able to set several buds using dormant scions and have a few take.
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Had couple leftover persimmon scions in my fridge and grafted them over failed grafts on July 6th.
Just in 12 days!!! Roman Kosh is pushing, Hoverla (Goverla) is swollen.
Foil is used to protect scions from direct morning sun.
I did put scions in water 12 hours prior to grafting to moisturize them.
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My Illinois everbearing graft took, I had full intentions of rooting the cuttings but someone showed a chart that they don’t root from cuttings so quickly steered into slapping a graft on my dwarf ever bearing
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Three out of four Prague citsuma grafts are growing already, so that’s exciting after having such abysmal failure with Prague last year. I’ve removed the one that failed, here are the 3 successes:
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Hi Winn
I would do Option B now and then wait until you have a number of 1 year old shoots that will emerge around the perimeter of each cut. Make cuts non horizontal so they will freely drain preventing center core rot due to rainwater intrusion. Paint over each cut and repaint as the center cor dries out and cracks to prevent rot.
Once you have good sized shoots to graft next year you can enjoy a good % take on most grafts.
My take rate on bark grafts, even when I follow Ken Coates’ methods have been disappointing. He remarks in some of his tutorial videos that most people are lucky to get 2 out of 6. I got only about 1 out of 5 and on several attempts zero. So I can see why the orchards would hire Ken as he seems to be the only one who can do them reliably. In his videos he does do a good job of describing how to select viable scionwood. Since it takes some time to collect these off your older tree, his advice will benefit you in scion selection. You can find his videos in one of my earlier posts here.
Take care
Dennis
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Here in the NW Plum buds are very near the maturity required for green scions to be viable. I have been monitoring to try to get an early start on summer grafting with scions from my recent grafts. Some varieties are very agressive and have buds about 2/3 out from the base that would be viable. On recent grafts of varieties I wish to use to graft other trees I look to use the outer 1/3 of a branch to obtain greenwood scions to graft, thus encouraging the remaining pruned section to branch out more than it otherwise would and creating a stronger branch for future fruit loading.
In the pic below of 2 year old Satsuma graft onto Adara, the shoot has grown about 3’ in total length. The pic of mature buds is located 14 joints from this year’s growth ring and 17 buds from the tip. The buds further out on the tip where I prefer pruning are not yet ready for grafting, but within a week or so can be ready.So by first week of August it may be ready for summer greenwood grafting!
Dennis
Kent Wa
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Himalayan FSP onto my multigrafted Jans best. Temps in the 90s with no protection, but it does get some shade as it is grafted low.
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I know it goes against the advice that was given, but out of the options I gave to the neighbor, this is the one they wanted most… a total of 5 bark grafts, hopefully one of them at least succeeds!
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A few of the avocado grafts I’ve done in the last couple weeks (plus one stunted seedling and one cutting I’m trying to root):
Mostly they haven’t shown any sign of growing yet, but a couple seem eager to get going:
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Have you rooted any avocados successfully?
Yes, though not typically the type of cutting shown in that photo (that’s just an experiment), and the ability to root seems to vary a lot from tree to tree. Here’s the thread with more info on the process I mostly use:
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So, about 2,5 weeks ago, I’ve tried bud grafting my female white alba mulberry onto a black alba so I can get some mixed colour seedlings. Taped and covered the grafts with alu-foil. Our resident woodpeckers took umbrage and removed the foil. This is the one of three they left:
As if that wasn’t enough, one of the grafts was apparently vetoed as a parasite and removed with some collateral damage…
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put on during high heat in early July ish. starting to push. just a regular cleft graft to branch base. covered with white air dry artist’s clay a little at the graft, over the parafilm, then wrapped in a piece of white paper on top.
looks ok but I’ll wait a bit to be sure, I don’t unwrap until following spring.
I’m going to do another one or two in early August as a test. I’ve cut the rest and did chip budding with them, holding one or two back for this.
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