I wonder how much like ‘Daisui Li’ it is, ‘Daisui Li’ also is a hybrid asian pear that tastes like a European pear while it’s crispy. I can take it if you have spare, I do have some spots on my root stocks that are too thick for 1/4 cuttings, good for half an inch or thicker cuttings.
1 Like
Yes i wrap it after with parafilm then 3m 2155 tape. The. I put a bag ovef it for water protection
2 Likes
Nice, i like using the black tape as well half the time instead of rubber bands (esp for thinner scionwood). Report back how they do.
Try a few other types of grafts if you have more grafting to do. Cleft so easy, make a “V” on scion, cut straight down middle on rootstock (or slight off middle if its too big for scion), n stick the V into that.
Once get good at Cleft (+ WnT) grafts, then id start looking at harder Z or modified WnT Grafts for diff sized rootstock/scionwood.
i tried cleft, and a t-bud and a “modified cleft” because it was so much smaller than the diameter. (idk if this is the real name, got it from JSacadura on youtube) on my cherry. But did not take a pic. I actually intended to do whip and tongue but i like. got cconfused and ended up with what i guess is a Z graft lol
2 Likes
For Whip n Tongue, i think it makes it easier to do if just make the tongue/slit cut 1/3rds from the edge/tip on both scionwood and rootstock. I always remember that and helps make it an even fit.
2 Likes
I just ordered apple rootstock, when it arrives would it be best to bench graft and try to keep cool for 2 weeks or plant the rootstock and field graft n 2-3 weeks? I could probably keep the bench grafts at less than 70 but low 60’s I don’t think will be possible.
Or would another option be best?
Field grafting a rootstock is very awkward and much slower, and it’s hard to explain unless you’ve tried it. Making accurate knife cuts while you’re kneeling and then bending over to look at the cuts and alignment 12” off the ground (or less) is super not fun. Then there’s the wrapping of your choice of tape and banding which is also awkward since the stock is stationary.
It is much easier to bench graft. Both hands can move, sitting at a comfortable table, can spin the rootstock to ensure tight and uniform tape. Huge difference.
3 Likes
Love your labels! Pear is forgiving… I bet they’ll do great.
Confused about why you’d bench graft and then try to keep it cool instead of bench graft and plant it outside?
If you are young and able like me (I’m 43 and yes, I consider myself young because I can still crawl around and stuff - though my knees are now starting to be fussy), it’s not too bad to field graft. Especially if you’re only doing a few.
1 Like
I always store my bench grafts for a week or two. I have an old chest freezer set up to hold at 55 deg F. I graft, they spend a few days in the cooler to callus, then they can go out.
Doing it this way isn’t absolutely necessary, but it seems like they do much better. For instance, I have never lost a bench graft when it’s been done this way… ever (at least for apples and pears). This spring, I did my bench grafts, stored them for 8 days and planted them out. Every graft had broken bud within 5 days. Again, it’s not necessary, but it seems to improve my success.
2 Likes
Thanks! That’s interesting! Do you think it would help if they were warmer than that too? I have part of a basement that’s between 55-65F. Just because of the way things have worked out mine are going to spend over a week inside and I can move them to the cool part of my basement…
1 Like
My understanding is that the sweet spot is between 55 and 65. I just picked the cooler range to prevent premature bud break. I’m not sure that would be much of an issue, anyway, but I didn’t want to find out the hard way!
1 Like
No, that is not “right”, but if wrapped well and otherwise treated well it will work. I’m happy to make a detailed critique if you want to know what to improve. Or you can search for whip and tongue graft.
1 Like
I suppose it kind of looks like the scion was cut for a modified cleft the way jsacadrua does. It looks not too far off from a plain whip so I bet it’s fine. From the pic the cuts look flat and even and matching and far better than things I’ve done!
The labels are just a plastic bag from target cut into strips.
1 Like
i do low grafts like that by sitting my butt right on the ground.
I’m ready to graft peaches but it’s not time yet i think. first time I’m working with them and I’m actually nervous
I was super nervous about peaches too! Last year was my first year doing them. I did some spring and also tried t-budding and chip budding in fall. I had good success. I just followed the directions everyone gave. I’ll summarize all the advice I read:
- Wait till there are 3 days in a row (or a week) with high temps of 75F (or in the 80s) - variation in advice so pick something.
- Make sure it is a “vigorously growing” tree that has got leaves of at least 1" when you graft
- The wood on rootstock should not be too old: 1-3 years maybe 4 is still okay?
- Put bark/splice/W&T/cleft grafts in a place of apical dominance.
- T-budding also good. Can try in summer (Early June) or fall (Aug/early sept) if spring graft fails - fresh budwood best, but people have used dormant scionwood too.
Of course people will still be successful even not doing all those things - but I decided I’d give it the best shot I could.
I’m getting ready to try some apricot this year and I’m way more nervous than I was with the peaches even though I’ve heard it’s the same thing basically…
8 Likes
this is the most direct exact advice I’ve gotten thank you so much
I’m very impatient so this will be a real test for me!
it is the root stock from a Veteran peach where the graft was killed. it’s grown back SO fast. there’s 5 fairly large “trunks”, sprouts that came up around, all with a few small branches. I’m planning to cut them and graft directly below the first branching, so each has a graft as the top. it went from dead to these sprouts over last summer. they’re pretty close together but not all attached at the base.
if even one or two take I’ll n be over the moon about it
So you think Will be OK if I bench graft and hold for a week+ unless they start to bud out and then plant?
From what I had read I thought that was what you were supposed to do. Would be much easier to graft then plant. I have 30+ years on you, field grafting isn’t my choice if I can avoid it but I can still manage if needed.