I have experienced a number of failures so far and am trying to diagnose what I am doing wrong. So far I have 100% failures primarily due to mold killing the sealed bud! I have been completely sealing the graft with parafilm. So I am trying again this time without covering the bud itself to see if I can prevent mold forming over the 3 week callousing period. I have several questions:
In the photo you can see an emerging fig right beside the bud. To use this axial bud for budding, I assume the small fig should be removed? True or false?
Is using this bud advisable, or do I need to use a younger bud that does not yet have an adjacent fruit developing?
Once the bud is nicked out, should that portion of the bud chip be sealed? I am using clay to seal them now, but wondering if that is the best way to prevent desiccation.
To help prevent bleeding of latex within my graft, I am slicing the bark just below the graft. Is this really necessary, and if so how often during the callousing period?
All of my trials so far are using magnichips with the wood removed.
You could T bud or chip bud with that. Cut off the fruit leaving just a short stub. I would not use younger wood. Older current season wood with a visable vegetative bud but no fruit would be a better choice. I haven’t found it necessary to cover the scion when T budding but do cover chip buds. You can cover both but use buddy tape or parafilm not clay.
Actually this time of summer finding an older leaf axil bud without fruit emerging is difficult as most of the main crop is now emerging in my area, so I am left with plucking off the fruit to prevent fruit growth during callousing. Only the very fresh buds have yet to have fruit buds, so I am trying several near shoot ends where a growth bud only can be seen. Covering with parafilm only gives me mold so I am leaving the bud open to ventilate. Only covering with foil where necessary.
This time around I will monitor daily to assure the graft is healing.