Affordable and Effective Brown Rot Sprays

Hoping to put together a list of products that has PROVEN effectiveness against brown rot. Products that are not a couple hundred a gallon and need five of us to buy it. I know east coast growers can name 50, but keep it to proven effectiveness. Please be exact with the names so they can be searched or include a link.

The list is for the entry grower.
Also useful for switching up to keep down resistance.
One resource to do all your brown rot shopping.

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The problem is that, generally speaking, the ones with the most proven effectiveness, are also (unfortunately) the ones which are hundreds of dollars a gallon.

There are a few exceptions. We use captan 80 as a staple in our fungicide program. The cheapest per lb. are 30 lb bags which are about $125 per bag. But you can get it in 6 lb. bags as well (just more expensive per lb.). One advantage is that pathogens have not (and likely will not ever) exhibit resistance due to it’s multiple site activity. Spray water must be acidified before adding the fungicide. Also it must be sprayed more regularly vs. some of the more powerful azoles or pre-mixes, which can be applied at longer intervals and still offer decent control.

Ziram is pretty much like captan, although has a longer PHI and doesn’t have to be acidified.

Propiconazole is cheap, but not as effective as other/better DMIs. I generally use it in conjunction with the lower labeled rate of captan.

Those are some of the cheapest materials effective for brown rot that I know of.

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jaypeedee,

I had a question on tebuconazole please. Do you know the efficacy of tebuconazole against M. fructicola vs. other powerful DMIs?

The only thing I could find was a chart from U.C. Davis which ranked virtually all the commonly used fungicides the same. For example it ranked Inspire Super the same as propiconazole (which should not be ranked the same). So the chart wasn’t much use to me.

https://www2.ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/peach/Fungicide-Efficacy-and-Treatment-Timing/

We get a lot more rain here vs. California, so the rot pressure his higher. That’s probably why they ranked pretty much everything the same (because pest pressure is lower and pretty much any fungicide will work on M. fructicola).

Here is a field study in Brazil which didn’t rank tubuconazole very well

I’m not disagreeing with your recommendation. Just wondering if you know of any other sources (or your own experience) which indicate tubuconazole works well against brown rot.

I’m always looking for more cost effective tools to keep rot under control in my orchard and would like more info on tubuconazole if you know of any. Thanks.

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I can’t speak to efficacy but for a Bonide spray including Captan you might look for the Lowes clearance. 16 oz for $3.67 here.

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Olpea,for brown rot I have for use, Indar, Pristine, Fontelis, Elevate, Rally, Bumper, Captan, Ziram, Tebucon 45DF and Tebustar 45WSP.After many rainy events and trails, Here I find it equal to Indar in results and surpassing everything else I have. Bang for the buck, it’s now my go to rot fungicide. I have never lost fruit from external rot when using these two Tebuconazole products.

Below these .pdf gave me a clue.

NCPeachSprayGuide2014.pdf (479.4 KB)

peachguide.pdf (929.0 KB)

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Isn’t Monterey Fungus Fighter like a knockoff of Indar?

Monterey Fungus Fighter is Propiconazole a triazole fungicide same class as Indar and Tebuconazole.
It is fairly good against brown rot if the pressure isn’t to high. I use a brand of propiconazole named Bumper. I don’t think they produce Monterey Fungus Fighter anymore.

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Bonide used to make “Fruit tree and plant guard” it has a combination of two fungicides that are very effective at preventing brown rot and has a different mode of action than Propiconazole. In combination I got zero brown rot. I alternated sprays of each. Unfortunately Bonide has discontinued production. I snagged three bottles from a private nursery that carried it. I should be good for the next five seasons. I ran out last year and it was the first time in eight years I saw brown rot. I lost about 50 fruits. At least I got to see which fruits are most susceptible. No other home products have these fungicides.

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Looks like you have tried just about everything on the NC Peach Spray Guide!

Do you mind sharing what fruits you grow and how much?

Thanks! Very helpful.

I’m going to definitely take a closer look at tubuconazole as a more cost effective fungicide.

I did forget to add Topsin M to the list of thing I use in my cover sprays. However, I’m located in a very climate challenging area about 70 miles north of (LA) Lake Pontchartrain where we can have periods of prolonged rainfall. My most grown and favorite fruit is white Nectarines. Being only a hobbyist I currently have about 125 trees. Most are stone fruits with a few Pears and Apples in the mix. I have 42 Nectarines trees, 18 Peach trees and the remainder consist mostly of plum and pluots.

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Thanks for the info. 125 trees is a lot especially in a challenging area for fruit growing!

You may have noticed that the effectiveness of various fungicides for controlling brown rot changed slightly in the NC 2020 guide. Looks like Tubuconazole and Indar are rated the same as “Good”. Merivon is the only chemical rated as “Excellent” against BR. I have used it on Apples and its really pricey. I have been using Indar on BR and I’m going to buy some Tubuconazole and add it to the mix. Thanks for the suggestion.

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The bags of captan you mentioned earlier are pretty affordable. I looked at them last year and planned to buy this year. What is the difference between 50 and 80 captan? Will it work alone?

The price on tubuconazole is attractive as well.

It’s the percentage of active ingredient. Captan 50 is 50%, Captan 80 is 80%.

I’ve had excellent results with captan alone, if the protective coating is maintained. It requires a once a week application if it rains significantly. Every couple weeks with little or no rain.

The stronger locally systemic DMIs can generally be applied at longer intervals because they have some kickback action.

That’s a very serious hobbyist!

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Rick,

I’m not seeing that in the NC 2020 guide. The only thing I can find the 2020 guide regarding tebuconazole is:

“A fungicide spray at 1-5% bloom and again at 25-50%
bloom may reduce blossom blight when the bloom period is
extended and weather conditions are wet. Demethylation
inhibiting (DMI) fungicides [(Elite, Orius, Tebuzol); Indar,
Quash, Rally, and (Bumper, Orbit, PropiMax)] are effective
against blossom blight but are at moderate to high risk for
resistance development if used regularly.”

I’m not seeing any other tebuconazole product listed in the 2020 guide. Did I overlook it?

Neither did I. It was probably dropped since Bayer introduced new chemistries to replace it. Most reviews will likely come from older publications since Bayer phased it out some years ago.

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I was looking at the mixing instructions on the tebuconazole. It looks like they come in 2oz packets that make 100 gallons each. Is that correct or did I miss something. https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/www.agrian.com/pdfs/TebuStar_45WSP_Label2.pdf

https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=423&restricted=y

Captan 80WDG This works out to about 300 gallons for $43. That’s pretty affordable. Would you mind confirming I have the right item.