Switch Assembly # 86569718.
Thanks, I’ll try to inflate the tire to 20psi that I can get the cap off. It’s the tire that looks to be lowest, I might not have to inflate the other tire. I will probably have to put in a new Schrader valve on it, tho.
Like I mentioned earlier, my main usage is for pulling a bush hog. I usually do that in low 3rd gear, I usually do plowing in low 1st or 2nd, disking in low 2nd or 3rd, so my speeds are pretty low. My gear range is 4 low and high. I rarely get on the road with it.
Our rains just stopped, I think it’s done for the day, I imagine we got about 2" total. After the main rains came through last night, we had some very high winds from about 11 to 1am. We live in a manufactured home, and although it’s pretty well anchored, I could feel it vibrating some. I think it was coming out of the west, as it seemed to be roaring thru the trees up the hill (west) behind us. I was worried about my fruit trees, none are staked, and are starting to fill with leaves. It can be bad for trees to get a lot of rain, then strong winds. I haven’t been out to check things yet, hope they’re okay.
Yes it is, you have to delve deeper into the parts list. It should show categories of parts. Look under category 06 (electrical), then click on 11A07 (dashboard switches). There’s an ignition switch there, part number 86569718, it’s about $77. I would call them to verify.
Well, if you are sure it’s not a T1530, then a 1530 was only made from 1996-98. There ought to be some kind of stamped plate on the tractor that states things like the serial number, where it was made, etc. Mine is on the front lower side by the front tires, but it is a JD, made in 1981, so yours might be somewhere else. I was surprised to see that mine was made in West Germany.
Thank you both for your help. Obviously I feel a little foolish at having not figured out how to find that part! However, it turns out the place in Nashville has it in stock and if it doesn’t fit they will take it back, so I’m going to go get it tomorrow. Whether I can put it on myself is another question, but my research suggests this is a very easy job so we will see! Thanks again for your help.
I took my compressor down to the barn today to try to air up the tires. After letting it charge up to about 100psi, I gave the newer 8 ply tire, which is at a 12 o’clock position, and doesn’t have a corroded valve, a few pulses of air. After that, I checked to see if any liquid came out and it didn’t. First check with the gauge barely registered, so I gave it a few more pulses. Got it up to 20psi, and called it good. The tire looks a lot better now, can’t believe it was that low.
I was going to roll the tractor forward a bit to get the other tire’s valve stem on top, but it wouldn’t start. It tried to turn, but just didn’t have enough juice, so I put the charger on it again. I imagine the 23 degree freeze we had this morning didn’t help.
Like you said, I could still air the tire up in its present position (5 o’clock?), but would rather get it to the top. Plus if that corroded valve breaks in my attempt, I don’t want fluid to pour out. Is it difficult to get that Schrader valve replaced?
Edit- I got it started after it charged for a few hours. So, I rolled it forward a bit so that the other valve is on top. I’ll try to air it up tomorrow. Question, if I have to change the valve, do I need to jack the tractor up so that the tire’s off the ground to relieve any pressure in the tire?
Did you get the part, and if so, were you able to change it out?
Hey Bob! Thanks so much for asking! yes, I did get the ingnition switch from a dealer in Nashville (for freaking $84!!!). I came home and installed it. I was actually proud of myself. Certainly putting a new ignition switch on is nothing complicated at all, but I am the least mechanically inclined person on earth!!!
Anyway, I know I did it correctly because everything works right when i turn the key now…the glow plug light comes on first, then the other lights, etc. Everything works right EXCEPT ONE THING…STILL WONT START!!! That being said, I have since found the problem and think the ignition switch was the CAUSE of the problem I have now. Let me explain…
My old ignition switch was certainly not working right. When I’d try to start my tractor, I’d have to wiggle the key a lot and turn it very slowly and there was only one tiny little spot where the tractor would actually turn over and start. More importantly, when it was in that “sweet spot” that it would start, my glow plug stayed on. When the switch worked properly, the glow plug only stays on when you turn the key to the first position. You are supposed to let it sit there until glow plug light goes off, then turn the key another click and the tractor starts. But again, one of the problems with my bad switch was that the glow plug would never go off- so I had to run my tractor with the glow plug on the whole time. I feel confident that was my problem. I suspect the wiring on my tractor was never designed for the heavy load/amps that my glow plug draws. A week ago a fuse on my tractor blew for first time, and it wasn’t just blown but was MELTED. I feel sure that was from my glow plug putting too much draw on the system, because that fuse blew while i was mowing with glow plug stuck on.
So, then when my tractor wouldn’t start this time, of course I checked that fuse again and it was OK. THen when I put my new ignition switch on, and my tractor still wouldn’t start, I started looking around more at mire wiring…and then I found the problem. There are 2 connections of some kind - they may or may not be fuses inside those connectors- but there are 2 connections that are completely melted to the point that the wiring has separated. I am posting photos to show what I found. The first photo is a close up to try and show WHAT the connections are and the condition that are in now that they have melted. The second photo is just a wider view to show what leads to them.
My suspicion is that the reason the first fuse blew and the reason the 2 connections melted is that the bad switch that allowed the glo plug to stay on, and the heavy load it caused overburdened my electrical system. But of course that is nothing but my suspicion and I’m very far from an expert. Worse yet, whether I am right or not, I can’t fix those melted connections and don’t even know how to replace them. SO I’ve contacted a moblile tractor repair guy to come and look and fix it. God only knows how much that will cost but I have no way to take the tractor somewhere, and I have used this guy before and he seems very good (and very expensive).
Anyway, I would be extremely interested in what you or anyone else thinks about my diagnoses and/or what to do about it. I’d especially like to hear from @Steve333 since he has helped me in the past and always sees right on target!
So…that is my usual long-winded answer to your question! haha. So yes, I did find, buy and even install a new ignition switch, but it didn’t completely fix my problem. However, I still think it may have been the problem and I now only have to repair the damage done by the bad switch to get me back in working order…at least that is my hope!!!
THis photo is the close up view. TO be clear, the two melted connectors used to look exactly like the 3rd one beside them (on the right). The whole plastic casing that contained them is burned/melted away on the bad ones. You can tell they contained some kind of plug.
This view just shows a little more and shows what wires lead to the burned connectors. To be clear…the burned connectors are at the bottom of the photo, not those near the top.
Well, glad you were able to get the part and replace it. Yeah it sounds like the fact the glow plug was on all the time doesn’t sound good. It may have caused the connector meltdown. I don’t know a lot about glow plugs, but I don’t think they’re supposed to stay on all the time. I don’t even know if my tractor has one, I don’t recall there being a glow plug switch or such a position on my ignition switch.
I do have a block heater, which I have had to use once when it was very cold and the tractor wouldn’t start. Lately, as I’ve posted above, I’ve had battery issues, so I’ve had to charge them up a few times lately. I’m trying to avoid having to buy two new ones, as funds are a bit tight now. I’m trying to make it thru plowing and disking season on them. Once it warms up, they ought to work better. They’re about 8 years old, so I’m trying to get the last bit of juice out of them.
Anyways that’s about all I know about it, you’re probably better off having a guy to come look at it. Hopefully he can figure it out and repair it quickly. I imagine you’re keen to get it going again.
I’m glad to hear that you were able to get one tire aired up. I’m including a picture of the typical replacement stem for a tractor tube. If you can’t remove the schrader valve because of corrosion you can replace this part of the stem. Just use a pliers to turn it counter clockwise. I used to own a Tire Shop. So the way I would normally have done it is, I would have the replacement in one hand and remove the old with other then quickly put the new one in. If you aren’t comfortable then yes, I would recommend jacking it up to replace it.
A good mechanic is a good investigator. I think you’re a better mechanic than you think Kevin! Although a bit more expensive, I think the dealer ignition is a wise choice as it’s plug-n-play and you don’t have to do any wiring or soldering. New Holland is noted for crappy wiring, we have one as well and ours has issues too.
That is very interesting about New Holland being known for bad wiring! Actually, I was so frustrated with my problem- and my tractor has had other issues- that I started to look at new tractors and I may buy one in the next year. I looked at New Hollands while I was at the dealer and it was interesting. I like the size of my 1530 (24 HP). But the new 25 HP New Holland’s all have to be bought or ordered with a front end loader or a back hoe attachment, which adds from $2,500 to $3,800 and I just don’t need either of those. Therefore, its possible to buy a 35 HP New Holland (without attachments) for about the same price as the 25hp since they have to come with attachments. Anyway, the price at that dealership for a New Holland 35 Workmaster was $17,385. She talked like they wouldn’t come down more than $17,000 even though I said I’d pay cash- but perhaps if I offered less they’d take it. Anyway, 17k for a 2020 model 35 HP tractor actually didn’t seem THAT AWFUL to me…but what do I know. WHat do you (or anyone else) think?
I’d like to get a Kabota, but wholly cow they are just SOOOO high. Perhaps its worth it…but honestly my tractor just doesn’t get really heavy use so I’m not sure it would be worth all that extra money for me. I’m going tomorrow to look at Mahindra. I know almost nothing about them but we have a dealer 30 minutes from my house and some people I know like them. ANy thoughts on them? ANyone?
We have a 2005 TC35DA that we bought used (but we have 3 other tractors, down from 4 other). We have looked at but so far avoided new models with tier 4 diesel regeneration. We bought the TC35DA because it had a loader and backhoe, so we were looking for the opposite of you. We have worked it hard, cut and chipped just under 1000 trees from the field where we will put the orchard. There are low hour tractors listed on a regular basis on Craigslist and other sites. We’ve shopped Kubota a few times, really like them, but balk at the price. I know Mahindra will get you higher horsepower and hydraulic lift for a better price than some other brands. They obviously are doing well, but are noted for problems of their own. I suppose any brand has it’s issues, so good service, parts availability and parts prices should be part of the equation.
Thanks. I went out today on a trip to get out of the house and pick up a few things. I thought I’d try to get a valve like you posted. No auto parts or farm supply store had them but a couple of them try a tire shop outside of town. I went in and asked if they had such a valve, and he gave me this one, slightly used for free. Wouldn’t take a dime for it, so that was nice.
I’ll give it a try later, hopefully it’ll work. I want to take any pressure off the tire, so I’ll have to figure out how to jack that side of the tractor up.
I think the one I got today is the wrong sized valve, it appears to be too narrow and not enough threads on the bottom. It appears to be a TR218A valve, it looks like the one on the tire is a TR618A, which looks like these-
My wife has to go into town for work related business tomorrow, so I’ll have her pick one up. The only auto parts store that seems to have them are Oreillys, but they would have to be ordered. Could she find these at a tire repair/store?
Hi Kevin. I am not familiar with your tractor’s wiring scheme, but it is pretty typical of cars and some tractors (have not owned a newer one so this may be outdated) to use a relay to switch high current items. That allows the switches to handle lower current (just enough to run the relay). The second pic looks like a set of three relays, so perhaps one of those is running the glow plugs.
In general, glow plugs are not meant to be run continuously. Typically one would run them for “a while” (maybe 10 to 30 secs depending on temps) and then try to start, as you said. Some more modern trucks and tractors run the GPs via a controller (eg computer), it determines how long to keep them on, and even may pulse them so that they do not run continuously. If they were really on all the time that would be drawing high current on their circuit, as you say. But generally those wires should have been sized big enough to handle that current without melting (but you never know). There also should have been a fuse in that circuit which should have blown if there was a short. But with high current circuits like GPs, an electrical malfunction can cause high draw without popping the fuse sometimes.
Anyway, I mention all this because some of it may be relevant to your problem. It is possible that a relay is malfunctioning, perhaps even shorted out or stuck on, causing your GPs to run all the time, and over drawing some wires (and not necessarily the ones to the GPs maybe the ones to the relay coil) and causing the burnt/melted insulation. It is also possible (but fairly unlikely, GPs usually fail open not shorted) at one or more GPs could have shorted out and are causing the high current draw. It is possible that this high current draw caused the issues you were seeing in the old ignition switch, melting or burning out some contacts there. If so, it would be a good idea to find the fault(s) and fix them before it repeats on the new switch (not to scare you but it is a possibility).
If you can get a hold of a wiring diagram for your tractor, that would come in handy. If only to see if there is a relay in the GP circuit, and which wire colors are the ones you are interested in. If you can’t find it, you can still trace the wires, it just takes a bit longer.
I would probably take a look at that end relay (if those damaged wires were going to it). Relays typically unplug (though can be a bear to get out if they have sat for years). Look to see if the contact in the base look melted/damaged. One can often carefully pry off the plastic cover on the relay, which will let you see the condition of its coil and contacts, and you can even run it that way (temporarily)to see if it is working as it should.
If the relay investigation didn’t turn up the problem, I’d probably then test each of the GPs. To do that one removes the end wire (usually a nut or a push on) and then measure the resistance between that top terminal and ground (engine metal nearby). Typically should read a few ohms, and all should be about the same. You are on the lookout for any that read 0 or infinity or a much higher value).
The “melted wires” may have been a fusible link. They look like a short section of wire, but are fuses, designed to melt at some current load. These are fairly common on alternator wiring and other places in auto and tractors where a lot of current is traveling thru wires and you don’t want to make a run back to the fusebox and back. If you can find the wiring diagram/schematics that should show if there is a fusible link in that circuit. If that is what happened, a fusible link melted, then it is just like any other blown fuse problem, you need to find the issue that caused that fuse to blow, fix it, and then replace the fuse. Only in this case you need the right sized fusible link to patch in instead of a new plug in fuse.
You REALLY need to find out if the melted wires were just wires or a fusible link. If they were a fusible link and you just patch in a plain wire, well it’s like putting a penny in a fusebox, something else is just going to burn up.
If one of the GPs or a wire to it were shorted to ground, then it would likely blow any fusible link in the circuit.
When you say the tractor would not start after you put in the new switch, why didn’t it start could you tell? Did it seem like the GPs weren’t coming on (regardless of what the light might have said)? Did the starter crank?
One other possibility, you mention there is a GP light which comes on and goes off to tell you when to hit the starter. If I read that right, then there is likely a GP controller of some sort which is involved. Might be a possible spot for the problem too.
If I had to guess (which is really all I can do from this distance at this point), I would think the GP wiring and/or relay are the likely source of the problem, and would look to them first. And I’d be cautious about patching the “burnt wires” until I was sure they weren’t a fusible link.
Let us know what you find.
Here is a pic of the actual valve on the tire, I believe it is a TR618A as mentioned above.
Hopefully my wife can pick me up one in town tomorrow.
That was one of the most amazingly thorough, detailed, and helpful posts I’ve ever seen and I can’t begin to thank you enough for taking the time to carefully read my discription and then provide your insight. What is even more incredible is that I actually was able to follow and understand pretty much everything you said!!! That says a lot for your ability to explain things, because as I’ve said before, I’m the least mechanical person you ever met. I honestly think I can at least do some good investigating based on your suggestions.
Without taking advantage of your helpful nature, I really want to give you a little more information and answer a couple things you asked. First, I want you to know that I have a VERY strong suspicion that you are right about it perhaps being a malfunctioning relay and I want to tell you why I think that. OK, I already experimented with the melted things shown in the photo that you suspect might be wire fuses. By experimenting, I mean I took a piece of wire and tried to close up the circuit that was obviously opened when those things (wire fuses we bet) melted. I just touched a wire to each one to see if the tractor would start with that circuit closed. I actually did understand that if this worked I’d still need to put a permanent fuse back on or it would be the “penny in the fusebox” thing. But I wanted to see if TEMPORARILY I could use the wire (as my “penny”) to act as a fuse. Well, what happened was I heard a really strange buzzing sound. It sounded a lot like the buzzer on a car when door is left open (before the more modern “chime” sounds cares have. Welll, my tractor has no buzzer. So I am now very suspicious that what I was actually hearing when I jumped/closed the melted open circuit at the wire fuse was actually a stuck relay trying to open??? Would that make sense? Would a failing relay cause a buzzing sound maybe?
Unfortunately, while I WAS able to get that buzzing sound by closing the open wire fuse (if that is what the melted things were), I was NOT able to get the tractor to start. However, using my temporary wire closer, it was not possible for my 2 hands to hold a piece of wire on BOTH of the melted wire fuses, so that may be why I never was able to get the tractor to start while using my wire (ie my “penny”). BTW…I thought I’d be ok just using my wire to close the melted fuse circuit for a few seconds to see if it made things work, but perhaps even a few seconds could be a risk and cause something somewhere else to melt/breakdown??? But I certainly wouldn’t have used my wire “jump” for more than a few second test-even before you warned me. I actually had already made the “penny in a fusebox” analogy in my own mind before you said it- REALLY!!!
BTW…to answer your question, when I say it won’t start, I mean it won’t turn over at all. Not since this melt down happened have I ever been able to get the motor to sound like it was trying to start. If it were turning over but not starting, I’d certainly have suspected glow plug problem. But I can’t get far enough to know if they are working right because I can’t get it to even try to start.
Yes, you read my post correctly. The way my tractor works is that you turn my key one click and the glow pug light on the dash comes on telling you (if its working right) that the glow plug is warming things up. You are suppossed to just sit there about 15-30 seconds until the glow plug light on the dash goes out. Ideally that tells you its warm enough to start, so when the light goes out you turn the key one more click and the tractor turns over and starts (if working). Apparently the glow plugs are important for my tractor because even in warm weather, if I don’t wait for the GP light to go off and just quickly turn the key past the glow plug warm up setting, the tractor will turn over but usually not start- even in warm weather unless you just turned it off.
I am going to reread you post tomorrow and do a little more investigating. One problem I’m having is really hard for me to admit, but since I’ve already told you how awful I am as a mechanic, I’ll confess it. I haven’t been able to figure out how to get the huge plastic piece that runs from one side of my tractor, over my steering column, and around the other side of the tractor to cover everything on the front half of the tractor body. i know that sounds ridiculous!!! But i’ve removed every screw for sure. Fortunately, that has loosed it enough for me to sort of pull it back and reach inside to replace the ignition switch and look at those melted wire fuses, but I’ll have to get that big cover off to look at and test my glow plugs! The only thing holding it on- and this sounds even dumber, is the handle thing you pull on when you want to change the position of the steering wheel. You know, just like on a car the thing under the wheel that you pull to release the steering wheel enough to move it up or down. That stupid little handle comes out and forms a T and the plastic piece only has a small hole that the “T” handle comes out of, so the top of the “T” is wider than the hole so damn if I know how to pull the big plastic cover over it to remove it. I thought maybe the top part of that “T” would come off and I pulled like hell on it. turns out a plastic covering did come off it, but there was still a metal top on the T that is bigger than the hole in the big plastic covering. and the covering doesn’t seem to come apart there. Oh well, surely to god I can figure out how to get a plastic cover off!!!
I’ll keep you posted on the melted wires and what I find using your suggestions. I’m confident I am still going to need the professional guy, but certainly I’d give anything to find the problem first. I guess I could actually fix it if it were some of your possibilities (like a bad glo plug) but for most of it even if I could indentify the problem I’d need him to fix it. But I’m sure if as soon as he walked up I could point to the problem and ask him to fix it that it would be much cheaper than him starting from scratch!
I know this isn’t detailed enough be very helpful at all- I would have to buy the $49 manual to get the detail. But this is my tractor and it does say its relay, fuse, or diodes because that is exactly the location of my melted stuff! This also is a good way to show the thing I was calling a “T” handle that prevents me from getting the cover off (I dont mean the top cover, this cover wraps around both sides and crosses over under my steering wheel. The part that prevents me from removing that cover is shown in the diagram right under the circle labled as 6a…its even t-shaped here. It wont pull off, won’t unscrew, and the top of the “T” is too wide to allow the big plastic cover to pull over it. GRRR. I this should be a minor problem but not for me! haha
I have a 33DX pretty much the same setup.
Hi Bob, I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.
You have a tube type tire. TR618A is used in tubeless tires. It looks to me like the used one that you picked up earlier will work, It threads into the inside of the larger male threads that you have pictured here. If you want to call me I will gladly explain it in more detail for you.