Anyone have a 52" electric zero turn mower? I’m getting tired of always having to go to the gas station. I have 5 acres I cut with my tractor and 5 acres I cut with my zero turn.
I heard they usually can cut around 3 acres then you have to charge them, anyone cut less then they claim. I also read that they are built with a lot of plastic and was wondering how they hold up? Someone the other day told me to hold off another year but couldn’t tell me why.
Anyone heard of any incentives by our government to go to an electric mower, like tax free?
Something we could have done, but in this case chose not too. We had a couple other things we wanted done that we had been struggling to correct (engagement levers not engaging correctly or jamming(4x4, pto, rear axel lock) and hydrostatic pedals that didn’t “return to neutral”. Everything is fixed and functioning properly for around $550. The cost to haul it is another story @ around $330. We bought our trailer just before we bought the New Holland and Ford 5000. The trailer won’t haul the weight of these although it’s close.
Paul has had the front of the Ford 5000 torn off about 3 times now trying to stop a power steering leak, and just this morning he thinks he found the problem. It seems a prior owner put the wrong fittings on two of the lines, the fittings on the end of the lines need to be swapped. Then we get to clean the crap out of the carb again. This 5000 is great when it runs right, but it always has something wrong.
But, those with a tinkering spirit can’t get so far beyond that. For example, things like the emissions system (which I think the story above mentioned can go out in the middle of harvest), or fine tuning the computer are not allowed.
I was wondering if JD could remote drive the equipment back to Ukraine, or perhaps crash them into something convenient so they can’t even be used for parts.
It has been beat on with a wrench at some point and ruined the numbers. I don’t know the number format and so it makes guessing difficult. If I had the correct number I could get a rebuild kit
Yeah, leaking sounds like either a seam separating (screws loosening), crack in the casting somewhere, or leaky/sticky float valve. And/or perhaps a float that leaks so it’s not floating anymore.
I have not had to deal with a Ford, but I would think a dealer should be able to tell you the carb number from the year/model/features of your tractor. If not exactly at least narrow it down to one or two. Alternatively online might have that info too if you search around some. There are quite a few tractor forums, even for the more obscure brands, so I’d expect there to be a Ford 4000 one or two out there.
The fact that it shows signs of being beat on points to a sticky float valve (beating the carb can fix that many times, at least temporarily); so that might be the first place to look. But once you have the carb off the engine and cleaned up, it’s easy to look for cracks or loose body parts.
And while your absolutely right, a rebuild kit is good to have on hand, one can take apart a carb and reassemble it if you work slowly and are lucky. Some luck is definitely needed as you don’t want to tear any gaskets (BTW if you go this route, silicon form a gasket is not suitable for sealing in gasoline like on a carb for long). Probably only a last resort but if you can’t get a rebuild kit and it’s not running…
If you have a “good” auto/tractor parts store, you may be able to match some parts if you dissassemble and bring them in (like a float and float valve). The NAPA store by me used to help me out with things like that on occasion.
Anyway, some ideas.
Edit: just did a quick search on ebay for “Ford 4000 carb rebuild” lots of hits on this. Most with pics. You may be able to identify which carb you have from those pics, and you can always ask those sellers if they think their kit would work for your carb. There are also rebuilding shops who offer a rebuild service. I am not necessarily recommending any of these vendors (never used them) but the pics of the carbs and their kits might help.
OK, from ebay, here are a few links, any of these look like your carb?
There are more there too. Looks like it might be a Holley or Zenith or Marvel. Short of a dealer or a ford tractor forum telling you, matching it up to the pics online might be a good way…
You should be able to get a kit based off the year only. When you rebuild it, clean it thoroughly with either a carb dip or ultrasonic cleaner. In my experience that’s the number one failure for “rebuilt” carbs: new gaskets with the same crud in the idle circuits.
I’m not sure it is the carb that came on the tractor based on internet research but maybe I need to dig deeper. Dad took the carb off yesterday and disassembled and drenched everything with carb cleaner but it still acted the same when we put it back on
Just as an FYI, I use Champion 4000 hydraulic fluid in my Massey. It used to be $40 per 5 gal pail. It’s gone up quite a bit now, but it’s not $100 per pail.
Our Napa store used to be able to get it in. However a local Farm and Home Supply carries it cheaper.
One might think that it’s a low quality fluid, but it’s top shelf. It’s compatible with most major tractor manufacturer specifications. Champion 4000 is all some farmers will use, around here.
