I’m adding an apple in 2027 and the above are the two rootstocks I’ve sort of narrowed it down to. I am putting it where a larger tree will fit & currently have a Pixie Crunch on G.890, but it just went in last spring, so I cannot pass judgment as to whether or not I like that rootstock. A nursery I trust said “it’s a toss up between those two,.”
So I thought I’d ask you folks who have been there & done that…
Anyways, looking for the tree to have good disease resistance, long-lived, self-supporting, etc.
G.890 based on reports here. Heard to many leaner stories on B118 here. And I know B118 hates the heat and humidity. I would take M111 over B118. Will be trying P.18 here this year.
Max size of mature apple tree on G.890 versus B.118 rootstock?
The answer seemed sensible and matches what I thought I understood about both rootstocks.
This is a great question that highlights the large difference in vigor between these two popular apple rootstocks.
The G.890 rootstock produces a much smaller tree than the B.118 rootstock.
Here is a comparison of their mature sizes, typically given as a percentage of a standard (full-size) seedling apple tree:
Rootstock
Vigor Class
Size as % of Standard
Approximate Mature Height
Primary Characteristics
G.890
Semi-Dwarf
55% to 65%
9–12 feet
Excellent disease resistance (Fire Blight, Crown Rot), self-supporting, and widely adaptable to different soils.
B.118
Semi-Vigorous / Semi-Standard
75% to 90%
14–20+ feet
Very cold hardy, vigorous growth, excellent drought tolerance, and needs a wide spacing (close to a standard tree).
Key Takeaways
Size Difference: A tree on B.118 will be significantly larger—potentially twice the height and much wider—than one on G.890.
G.890 (Semi-Dwarf): This is ideal for backyard growers who want a manageable tree size for easy pruning and harvesting without a ladder, while still getting a healthy, freestanding tree.1
B.118 (Near-Standard): This is generally considered "close-to-standard."2 It is excellent for tough conditions, deep/dry soils, or planting in orchards where you want a very large, productive, and long-lived tree with superior cold hardiness.3 It requires the same wide spacing as a standard tree (20-25 feet).4
Every year I tell myself I am moving further away from M111. Every year at least 50 M111 gets on the next order. It is just so generally decent at everything.
One of our Uni’s has new gene editing hardware in their ag program. One of their first victims will be turning on M111’s early dormancy, low chill improving and precocity genes. I hope to be a guinea pig lab if lucky.
I have a lot on m111 but got a bunch of g890/g969 this year and they both seem to be doing great, WAY less burrs(due to m111 high air roots), so gives a much healthier/pleasant looks so far, but time will tell.
This is cracking me up. I spent months debating about which rootstock to get and changing my mind every other day. Then, I ended up ordering a couple 10 packs of EMLA 111 (and a dozen other things of course).
I think either one will do well. Main difference is B118 will get bigger.
My g890 seems to encourage wide branch angles at least for me. I hear some reports of brittle graft union on g890 but I haven’t experienced any trouble. B118 seems a little more self supporting for me so far but I think both should be staked initially and first couple years of heavy fruit
I mix a lot too. Just trying to find things that like our climate. But I hate it when more expensive types with high royalties fail. G.890 will be this year’s pricey candidate.
Then this year I will start two rootstock scions on nurseroot stock. Kind of weird. But it is they only way to get it started.
i have both b118 and m111 and i like both. i stake them for about 4 years and they are good to go. my orchard up on the hill gets alot of wind and so far they havent moved but havent fruited much yet. i may need to put support once they do, until they size up more.
I had m111 in MA and CA, but now I started an orchard in northern FL, and I have tons of burr knots. So I try to either burry them or carve them out, bc otherwise they provide entry for rot. Started a bunch of G890 this year, and none of them has burr knots.
Yep - I had someone argue with me about M111 once, although we all know the ‘don’t bury too deep’ argument of these, M111 original literature(and even some since) actually encouraged burying them up to an inch below graft because they are so prone to rooting/suckering up to the graft. Idea being if you bury it, instead of being like most things and rotting, at a young age it will just produce roots instead of burrs/air rooting(especially in areas with humid air)
If it is my choice I will probably go with G.890 or G.969 until I see some reason otherwise(personally).