Apricots repeatedly die!

Things are getting interesting. Someone just PM’d me and had some helpful information and also linked me to a thread from 2016 that was extremely helpful. @BobVance and others here posted on that as well. One possiblity explored there was Monilia- something I didn’t know about until just now but really looks and sounds a lot like what I may have happening. In fact, and I really hadn’t thought of this before now, but I’ve also had a few young cherry trees affected the same way I am describing in this thread happening to my apricots, except the cherries only loose a limb. Monilia might explain both from what I’ve read. I’m going to look more into it. I also am intrigued by @jerry 's mentioning of eutypa dieback- that also seems to fit my situation somewhat so I’m going to explore that more also. Thanks for all the great info.

My 2 Moorpark Apricots, now 5th leaf, did something this year I haven’t seen them do. All previous years, like most others Apricots, mine bloomed crazy early. Last year it was the 3rd week of Feb, and always lasted about a week of bloom time. This year both trees began to bloom in the ice and wet snow of mid-March, but they continued to bloom heavily for 3 weeks, then pushed out sparse oddball blooms for another 10 days. I’ve found a few pea sized fruit that set and may actually see a ripe one this year. What length of bloom time do others get? The trees are healthy and in well drained soil, and can’t fault them since they try so hard. I’ll probably graft on a few other varieties next year, some I’ve seen praised on here.

“The apricot is native to the Asian re- gions of Himalaya, China, and Armenia and is currently grown in several regions with climates ranging from sub-tropical to Mediterranean and our desert climate.” This is from a Google search “apricot native growing regions” Grow them on a mound or hill in loamy soil, or on root stalk that can tolerate excess moisture. Just my 2 cents. My two 8 year old apricot trees have several hundred fruit each, way more than last season. Apricot trees prefer growing in a semi arid environment. Emulate that environment if you can.

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No, the roots often survive. I think the problem is too much water in the cambium cells at the time of sudden drops of temps in early spring. I also don’t think you can know about how vulnerable they are based on a single site. My soil doesn’t hold water long and on my property apricots may not bear well out in the open, but they usually don’t die- at least not the proven cold-hardy ones.

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There is a fungus,Monilinia,that causes Brown Rot. Is that the one that was being posted about? Brady

No idea, but it happened to the two apricots I planted in my yard in year 2. I am in the northeast, near Boston. Trees had buds, opened leaves, then wilted and died mid-spring last year. One of the roots sent up shoots afterwards, but the other did not and stayed dead. When I dug them up this spring to replace with jujube bare roots, the roots from the apricots looked fine.

I’d like to try apricots, but I’m not going to bother with something that commonly dies for no good reason. Plenty of other fruit trees to choose from.

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Maybe so. But I have on numerous occasions seen apricots with 18 inches of new growth get hit with a hard freeze in spring. On the morning of the freeze the leaves and new growth are wilted over and frozen stiff. But once it thaws out the growth is fine with no tree damage. You may have lots of sites but they are all wet in winter compared to here. We’ve had 0.5 inch since September. Dryland apricots, meaning no irrigation, look fine at several locations I watch.

Apricots do best in the dry central US. West Texas, NM, AZ, etc. It’s almost never wet in that area in winter. A week once every few yrs.

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Trees grown on their own roots are often healthier and hardier than grafted trees. I wonder if that could be a (partial) solution in areas where ‘cots frequently struggle.

I am digging this thread. Misery loves good company.

Here is a trove of articles on apricot culture I do not have the time to read. Maybe some of you professional scientists and gentlemen-farmers could sift through this tranche and tell us what’s really going on:

XII International Symposium on Apricot Culture and Decline

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One of my cherry tree last year was dead in a similar fashion as your apricot. Leafed out, then wilted and dead in 2-3 weeks. Not sure why but I’ve moved on :smile:

With all the news about sudden death of apricots, I have not bought an apricot tree. I’ll wait to hear report from @SMC_zone6 about using a white apricot seedling.

Right now I grafted apricots on my existing nectarine and peach trees. This year, they have set fruit this year (no freeze out, thank goodness). I never like store-bought apricots but I believe that like peaches, apricots from our backyard would tast so much better than store bought ones.

If you have a prunus americana rootstock you can graft apricot on it in addition to various plums and peaches. It could be fun.

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I’ve watched several cots just die on me. Very healthy trees and then in spring…they just leaf out a little…very small leaves…and then stop growing.

I’d find a hardy stock like p american or krymsk and then just build cot branches and whatever else…then have back ups…and then have back ups of back ups :wink:

That’s useful info. I have two seedlings of an unknown variety that I’m very interested in. They may be late blooming. I’ll keep the idea of avoiding excess water as I grow them.

Some of the previous rootstock discussions have indicated compatibility problems with apricots on American plum rootstock. I’ve made several attempts which have all eventually died. I think an interstem (peach, etc.) could be important.

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@Barkslip knows more about what varieties are comparible with what rootstocks. There are several posts abd theeads about rootstock compatibilities.

Right now I am doing a trial and error of apricots on peaches.

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This happened to a Harglow its first spring

I bought a replacement and planted it next to the first tree - which then leafed out again and recovered

So now I have 2 Harglows

The first one sets a lot of fruit but they’re always runty. I have to thin it a whole lot to get any mature size. Can’t help thinking this has something to do with the near-death experience its 2nd year

apricot suddenly died on me too last year after leaf out very nicely. It was grafted on peach the year before.

So…does anyone in the north have this issue with trees planted in soil that drains well or an arid site that doesn’t get runoff water? I have a dry slope that is already dedicated to peaches and nects. I was planning on making room for an apricot. If I can’t keep one alive there, then there isn’t much hope for an in-ground tree.

Yes, what I’m saying is cambium cells too full of water are prone to rupture- the hardening off process is entirely about shuttling water out of vulnerable cells. But you know that.

@Palmer @mamuang peach will be your best bet. Apricot on American plum is 100% failure always. Myro 29C is a good rootstock and probably my favorite is Manchurian apricot. I’ve grafted some on Myro 29C this winter. Several died. It’s supposed to be 100% compatible.

I’d say stick with peach and apricot seedling/Manchurian apricot if you can.

Dax

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Peach seedling for cot is problematic because of peach tree borers. I often forget to look out for them on apricots because most varieties I have are on myro, but the CA nursery I get Tomcot from grafts it on peach. Where borers are an issue, I see no reason to use peach over myro, which is also more adaptable to various soil conditions.