No idea, but it happened to the two apricots I planted in my yard in year 2. I am in the northeast, near Boston. Trees had buds, opened leaves, then wilted and died mid-spring last year. One of the roots sent up shoots afterwards, but the other did not and stayed dead. When I dug them up this spring to replace with jujube bare roots, the roots from the apricots looked fine.
I’d like to try apricots, but I’m not going to bother with something that commonly dies for no good reason. Plenty of other fruit trees to choose from.
Maybe so. But I have on numerous occasions seen apricots with 18 inches of new growth get hit with a hard freeze in spring. On the morning of the freeze the leaves and new growth are wilted over and frozen stiff. But once it thaws out the growth is fine with no tree damage. You may have lots of sites but they are all wet in winter compared to here. We’ve had 0.5 inch since September. Dryland apricots, meaning no irrigation, look fine at several locations I watch.
Apricots do best in the dry central US. West Texas, NM, AZ, etc. It’s almost never wet in that area in winter. A week once every few yrs.
Trees grown on their own roots are often healthier and hardier than grafted trees. I wonder if that could be a (partial) solution in areas where ‘cots frequently struggle.
I am digging this thread. Misery loves good company.
Here is a trove of articles on apricot culture I do not have the time to read. Maybe some of you professional scientists and gentlemen-farmers could sift through this tranche and tell us what’s really going on:
One of my cherry tree last year was dead in a similar fashion as your apricot. Leafed out, then wilted and dead in 2-3 weeks. Not sure why but I’ve moved on
With all the news about sudden death of apricots, I have not bought an apricot tree. I’ll wait to hear report from @SMC_zone6 about using a white apricot seedling.
Right now I grafted apricots on my existing nectarine and peach trees. This year, they have set fruit this year (no freeze out, thank goodness). I never like store-bought apricots but I believe that like peaches, apricots from our backyard would tast so much better than store bought ones.
If you have a prunus americana rootstock you can graft apricot on it in addition to various plums and peaches. It could be fun.
I’ve watched several cots just die on me. Very healthy trees and then in spring…they just leaf out a little…very small leaves…and then stop growing.
I’d find a hardy stock like p american or krymsk and then just build cot branches and whatever else…then have back ups…and then have back ups of back ups
That’s useful info. I have two seedlings of an unknown variety that I’m very interested in. They may be late blooming. I’ll keep the idea of avoiding excess water as I grow them.
Some of the previous rootstock discussions have indicated compatibility problems with apricots on American plum rootstock. I’ve made several attempts which have all eventually died. I think an interstem (peach, etc.) could be important.
I bought a replacement and planted it next to the first tree - which then leafed out again and recovered
So now I have 2 Harglows
The first one sets a lot of fruit but they’re always runty. I have to thin it a whole lot to get any mature size. Can’t help thinking this has something to do with the near-death experience its 2nd year
So…does anyone in the north have this issue with trees planted in soil that drains well or an arid site that doesn’t get runoff water? I have a dry slope that is already dedicated to peaches and nects. I was planning on making room for an apricot. If I can’t keep one alive there, then there isn’t much hope for an in-ground tree.
Yes, what I’m saying is cambium cells too full of water are prone to rupture- the hardening off process is entirely about shuttling water out of vulnerable cells. But you know that.
@Palmer@mamuang peach will be your best bet. Apricot on American plum is 100% failure always. Myro 29C is a good rootstock and probably my favorite is Manchurian apricot. I’ve grafted some on Myro 29C this winter. Several died. It’s supposed to be 100% compatible.
I’d say stick with peach and apricot seedling/Manchurian apricot if you can.
Peach seedling for cot is problematic because of peach tree borers. I often forget to look out for them on apricots because most varieties I have are on myro, but the CA nursery I get Tomcot from grafts it on peach. Where borers are an issue, I see no reason to use peach over myro, which is also more adaptable to various soil conditions.
Just wanted to thank everyone for their contributions on this thread, it has turned in to a great one. This is a perfect example of what I love about this whole web site. I (or anyone else) can post about a problem, and suddenly we have experts who offer insights and possible explanations of the problem, as well as more novice fruit growers who share their own experience and confirm that this isn’t just happening to me. Both are equally helpful.
My experience is exactly like many of yours. My apricots started off great this spring and leafed out to about 1/2 inch or so, then everything wilted and the trees died-just like many of you. We did have a VERY wet spring, so that could be it from what you guys are saying. But some of the diseases linked also sound remarkably similar to what happened to my trees, so I’m reading up on those.
@Bradybb - To answer your question about the other link someone gave me, I should have posted it…here it is:
I often see people talking about Manchurian Apricot as root stock but rarely if ever hear anything about the fruit they make. Is it any good at all for fresh eating? Are they close in size to other ap’s? Thanks Dax
No, they do find the base- it has been a problem at more than one site for me- now I know to check the base of the Tomcots I manage with peach roots.
Interesting point, though. Amazing they can find that little bit of exposed peach wood- perhaps if I planted the trees below the graft line it would solve the problem. Unfortunately my production methods in the nursery make that very difficult.
