I haven’t been active on the forum for some time. I have a good size home orchard and garden in Southwest Washington State. I haven’t had a lot to say lately, and there have also been some major challenges that take time and energy.
I thought it might be useful to describe my approach toward better accessibility practices, for my fruits and vegetables. Accessibility can make all the world of difference to a fruit grower ir gardener, if done right.
By accessibility, I include these concepts -
Not reaching too high or climbing ladders
Not reaching too low or digging at ground level.
Reducing labor requirements for tasks that are taxing, overly tedious, requiring too much hard labor, and potentially unsafe - especially in hot weather or wildfire smoke season. There are effective methods.
Spending too much money for a product or method, especially that may not give much in return. If it breaks the bank or is useless, it makes for less, not more, accessibility.
I should add, these experiences are my own, and I make a lot up as I go along. Also, accessible gardening is a broad concept with potentially infinite permutations, and it’s only possible to address a couple of things at a time.
The two most noticeable aspects of my garden, beyond the tall fence (for deer) are how I manage growing fruits, and my raised beds.
For fruit -
I have about a dozen apple trees grafted onto, mostly Bud-9. I believe I grafted those about 5 or 6 years ago, so they take some time. Until last year, I grew other crops between the trees to use the space.
Those varieties include Gravenstein, Jonagold, Jonared, SummerRed, Porter, Black Oxford, Sweet-16, Akane, Pristine, and I have a Cosmic Crisp that I bought on M27? and genetic dwarf apple, Apple Babe, that is yet to produce fruit. Also a Macoun I grafted onto Bud-9 three years ago, it’s small but has some flowers now. This size apple tree can be tended standing without reaching up or down too much, or sitting on a garden stool. They have to be staked, branches tied, fruit thinned, and pruned thoughtfully.
I also have five espalier -trained apple trees around the perimeter. All are 2-variety.
Three are Redlove varieties, that I don’t care for so I’m re-grafting those arms with varieties I like better. The others are Zestar, Gala, Freedom, more Jonagold, Blue Pearmain, Honey Crisp.
If each mini tree gets ten or 20 nice apples and each espalier limb bears ten or so, that’s more than enough to use and share. They have been bigger and better than my original orchard apples. I’ve tried to time them to ripen from as early as I can, through main season, to as late as I can. This winter I added grafts of GoldRush to replace most of the Redlove Calypso as a season extender.
At the corners, I have columnar trees.
The varieties include Tasty Red, North Pole, Golden Sentinel, Golden Treat, and an incorrectly labeled one that was supposed to be Tasty Red but isnt. I quit trying to train them as bottle brushes, and just let them do their own thing, but within bounds. The North Pole, and Golden Treat have been my favorites for flavor, texture, size, and production so far. Tasty Red is too new but is blooming now. North Pole in my garden is on Bud-9 and stays very small - after 6 years is only about 4 feet tall and is producing nice apples.
I also have an informally fan-trained Nanaimo peach and two genetic dwarf peaches that have a rain protective shelter over them for the winter. The size is perfect to manage sitting or standing.
My garden beds are all very-high sided raised beds. I have three main types, which evolved over time.
Planter Wall block corners. Currently two with overwintered garlic and I planted onions in the third for this year. After the garlic harvest, I plant green beans. The insides of the sides are lined with plastic to slow rotting. At this height, the sides eventually splay outwards, a big meds and it’s a big project to fix. Now I have 2X4 top rails as shown, with 4 foot rebar going through, sort of like tinker toys. That works and they really do stay in place. The top rail is also good to lean on while sitting or standing to work.
I have cement block sided raised beds. I need to do some maintenance, but basically they are almost problem free. This year these will have tomatoes, and after those finish, next year’s garlic gets planted.
The last is a bit different. I used discarded cedar fencing and discarded, treated 2 x 4 fencing rails to make what is basically a big box. Inside are stacked, repurposed pavers, although 2 levels of cement blocks might be better. The box is lined with plastic on the inside. I stained to outside so they would last longer. Inside are 25 gallon fabric growing-bags, with big holes cut in the bottom for drainage. The soil is 75% garden soil, about 10% perlite and about about 25% compost amendment. These are the perfect height for me. I can support myself on the rails while working. So far they have grown great onions, scallions, a big crop of peppers, tomatoes, and beans. One bag is about the same as a 4-foot long garden row.
All of the planters have drip irrigation. I use cardboard mulch for weeds, water retention, and to prevent soil-borne / splashed tomato disease. Most of the tomato varieties are dwarf for easy management, except determinate romas.
I use this a lot but need to make a better one. It’s very helpful but not strong or stable enough for me.
I will stop there. I’ve known neighbors, friends, and family members have stopped gardening and fruit growing, due to less disability than mine. It can be done. I think it’s good to have a place to share info and experiences, and empower people. It does take planning ahead, and effort, and good information. Nobody gets younger so that’s good to do.
There is a great deal more, but this might be too much already, If it seems anyone wants me to describe my approach and experiences and if no major objections I can say more. What I describe here barely scratches the surface.