Chappelle and Atwood are my FAVs.
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@SMC_zone6
I will hand pollinate them going forward. Lesson learned.
@hambone -thanks. I am not sure where my Atwood graft is on a tree. I swear I grafted it. I need to look for Chapelle for next yesr.
The good news, I have 3 pawpaw suckers growing coming up between these two maple trees.
The one on the left is over 4 ft tall. The short one in middle is hard to see in the picture. The one on the right is in my neighbor’s yard 
. Luckily, my neighbor is a very nice guy and likes pawpaws.
After two spray of fungicide and insecticide, it is time to thin. This year, most fruit set well, except for Euro pears and pawpaws !!!
Apples
Asian pears
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@ahmad,
Without late freeze and one pre-bloom fungicide spray, my nectarines set fruit in abundance. Turned out, most of my grafts are nectarines. Ernie’s Choice and Saturn are the peaches (in ground) I have!!
Here’s Freckle Face.
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Great set! I had a set like that on most nectarines, except the bunch of trees that suffered blossom blight. I am 95% done with thinning, now is time for bagging! Way too much work for me…
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Since you have many trees, do you bag peaches/nectarines in thousands? I assume you use Clemson bags. I need to order more.
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So Clemson bags work on peaches? Might plant a peach next year preferably the most disease resistant one that also tastes good, if such even exists. Indian Blood? Indian Cling?
Hambone,
Bagging aline may not work on peaches. Clemson suggested spraying fungicide and pesticide mix a day before bagging. In reality, you need to spray 2-3 times and wait for fruit to size up to a thumb size before bagging.
I have high pest pressure so I start right at petal fall. Then, I spray 7-14 days later depending on how much rain I get. I have found that, by 2nd spray peaches are still too small to bag with Clemson bags. That’s why I need a 3rd spray before bagging.
You can spray with Surround but if you don’t spray fungicide, you will get brown rot after a few years. The first couple of years getting peaches, brown rot has not arrived but it will.
If you want to try, I would go for Indian Free. It is an easy peach. I had it for a couple of years. It was bit too tart for me but a lot of people enjoy it.
Maybe, @scottfsmith will be able to recommend peach varieties for low spray for you. You both are in MD.
Indian Free is a horrible rotter. Get Indian Cling if you want an easier peach. But it also could rot. Mine had some rot but it was surrounded by badly rotting peaches. With it alone you might not have much rot.
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My Indian Free grafted fruited for only 2 years so I did not experience rot yet by the time. After that, I removed the tree with Indian Free on it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Good question Tippy. I am not sure I will have the time to bag all my fruits. As you guessed, I currently have fruit in the thousands, so I am thinking may be I bag half or third of what I have. Clemson bags are good for nectarines, cots and pluots, however, they are one time use, which makes them kind of expensive. Also, Clemson university doubled their price from what I used to pay a few years ago. However, the Chinese seem to have produced a similar product, which I found on Amazon; and their price is more reasonable; link below:
I will also try organza bags, if I control PC with sprays, then organza should protect well from other insects. I already bagged hundreds of cots in organza, but the bag size for nectarines will be much bigger.
Thanks for the link to cheaper paper bags. I hope it will be water-resistant, too. I believe Clemson bags originally from China. I reused Clemson bags, usually for 2 years.
I use all kinds of bags for different fruit. I thought I timed my spray well and spray insecticide right at petal fall. The pests were faster. I saw signs of PC and possibly coddling moths, already attacked the fruit.
They had to hit the nicest-looking fruit. This was the biggest Empress plum on this young tree.
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A quarter of my fruitlets have injuries like that, but I think these are bite marks. So the fruits will grow just fine, but will have a scar. Egg laying is what worries me.
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What is the shape of an egg laying Curculio mark?
Ahmad,
I think the crescent shape scars are where PC deposited their eggs. Feeding wounds are just a tiny hole.
Penn State explained it clearly. I have always removed fruit with a crescent moon shape as larvae are likely to develop and feed on those fruit internally.
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I may be wrong. My recollection is that egg laying scars exudate gummy material, which usually stays sticking to the fruit, till the fruit drops.
PC’s egg laying scars, once healed look like the one in my pic above. The damage is internal. The holes of PC’s feeding sites exude gummy substance, but not much.
OFM entering wounds have gummy substance and frass.
Then, there is also coddling moths and such.
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Just got a chance to read your link and refresh my memory, it seems that the scars on your plums are only a cosmetic problem (which matters for commercial growers, but not for us). See quotes below:
“ Larvae are most likely to develop in fruit that drops. ”
“ When the eggs fail to hatch, a half-moon scar forms. When the eggs hatch and the larvae begin to feed, the scar is indented and does not expand. These larvae may deform the fruit but rarely complete development in fruit that remains on the tree.”
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