I sprayed with copper at delayed dormancy, follow the directions and sprayed captan w50 and Daconil (Chlorothalonil). Stopped Daconil at shuck split as per label continued with captan, plus spreader sticker. I thought I had bacterial leaf spot whipped, but nope it came back 
What do I need to spray and when to get bacterial leaf spot under control once and for all? would pristine work after shuck split?
Thanks
If it’s bacterial, at this point best bet is probably Mycoshield. This is an antibiotic. Kind of expensive. Mix about a tablespoon in 2 gallons.
Won’t cure existing problem.
Peaches that are straved for Nitrogen are very susceptible to Bacterial Spot. Based on the size of that peach and the lack of leaf growth, you need some Calcium Nitrate asap. I would put 2 cups spread in a wide band and have no sod growing in the root zone as it will use of the N.
Lack of N, I wouldnt doubt that at all. We haven’t dried out since last December. The ice melted in February and we’ve wet every since. Tiled fields can be planted right now. The others are too wet still. 6th mow today and still some spots I cant mow without getting the lawn mower stuck, like today.
The best way to combat bacterial spot is get bacterial spot resistant peach trees. All my peaches and nectarines have high resistance but during rainy seasons it becomes noticable but nothing like what your getting.
I know thats not what tou want to hear but I wish someone would have told me long ago.
No worries, i’m quickly coming to that conclusion my self. I’m in southern IL zone 7a. I’ve started reseaching bacterial spot resistant peach trees.
Illinois Extension lists the following:
The variety suggested for northern Illinois is called ‘Reliance.’
The varieties suggested for central Illinois are yellow-fleshed varieties (‘Comanche,’ ‘Madison,’ and ‘Reliance’) and white-fleshed variety such as ‘Belle of Georgia.’
The varieties recommended for southern Illinois can be planted in favorable locations in central Illinois. The varieties suggested for southern Illinois include yellow-fleshed varieties: ‘Harbelle,’ ‘Redhaven,’ ‘Comanche,’ ‘Harken,’ ‘Golden Jubilee,’ ‘Madison,’ or ‘Cresthaven.’
I have redhaven and relience they are doing well, very little leaf spot. But I must admit i’ve not heard of some of these other varieties before until now.
Which are you growing?
University of Arkansas and Rutgers/NJAES both bred peaches/nectarines for bacterial spot resistance. A lot of the west coast origin varieties they don’t (have to) care because it never rains.
A lot of them are still under patent. Some are “stays firm when completely ripe” or “low acid” as that’s the current trend.
It Never Rains in Southern California, thats even a song. I’m going to try and contact my extension office. I tried last year, I will try again. I plan on admending the soil with 12-12-12 tomorrow. Might start this evening weather permitting. Rain is forcast for the next 6 days. Its been extremely wet, everysince the ice and snow melted. So I wouldnt be at all surprised if the soil is low on fertlize. My neighbor said to me, don’t know when they will be able to get crops in.
I live in the green band / general farming region.
I’m at my mother in law’s. Her peach trees are the same. Totally differnt soil composition here also.
I think it has a lot to do with the amount of rain we’ve had. It just rained about 1/2" again late this morning, forcast rain for the next 6 days.
Mother in law’s peach trees.
I checked my potted peach grafts. No way this loring has been over watered because of the drainage holes in the pot. Plus it’s in good potting soil so chances of nitrogen deficiency are slim and it hasn’t been sprayed with anything either. So that’s three unique situations with the same symptoms. I’m pretty much convinced it’s fungal in nature now.
I still plan of fertlizing my orchard peaches tomorrow. I have a few differnt varieties grafted. I’ll continue to monitor the situation and see how it affects my grafted varieties. My two grafted contender peaches seem to have clean leaves so far. Loring (pictured) got hit hard, relience and red haven have minor leaf spot.
Contender is #1 on mehrabyan nursery 11 most disease resistant peach trees
I’m also in Illinois zone 5b very humid.
Contender to my knowledge has the highest resistance.
These peaches do very well for me.
Saturn
Desiree
Contender
White Lady
Harko
Early White Giant, my favorite.
Nectarines
Yum Yum
Silvergem
Harired
Mericrest
Tri Lite interspecific does very well and hopefully get to taste this year. Has good resitance. Glad I took a chance with it. Didn’t find any research on its resistance.
Fantasia is getting pulled doesn’t do well and doesn’t pollinate or flower well for me.
Have a Galaxy in a pot to replace the early white giant due to borers.
Bactericide FireLine 17 WP approved for use on organic apples and pears
https://news.agropages.com/News/NewsDetail---2691.htm
Bacterial Spot: Both Mycoshield and FireLine are registered to control Bacterial Spot on peaches and nectarines. The active ingredient (A.I.) in both materials is Oxytetracycline. In Mycoshield the oxytet is in the form of a calcium complex. In FireLine, it is in a hydrochloride salt form. In both cases the a.i. is the same percentage in the formulated product. Therefore the use rates will be the same for each product. The use rate should be calculated based on the dilute volume it takes to cover mature peach trees. In this case, the full rate should be 1.25 – 1.5 lb/A.
Agree with the recommendations here but in my experience fighting bacterial spot the same way you have (aggressive copper), it was not something that worked completely after 1 season. It has been a slow but steady reduction each year. You may yet be on the right track
When in doubt bsppjournals usally has some of the most comprehensive data. Reading it though is slow for me because I dont speak “scientist”.
https://bsppjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/mpp.12679
Management of bacterial spot of stone fruits and almond is based on an integrated approach that comprises essential measures to avoid Xap introduction in a production zone, as well as the use of tolerant or resistant plant material and chemical treatments, mainly based on copper compounds. Management programmes also include the use of appropriate cultivation practices when the disease is already established. Finally, for the effective control of the disease, appropriate detection and characterization methods are needed for use in symptomatic or asymptomatic samples as a first approach for pathogen exclusion.
I’m currently reseaching “copper componds” apparently there are a few labeled for stonefruit mainly peach.
Copper diammonia diacetate complex. Label states stop at shuck split due to risk of leaf damage.
Copper Octanoate (Copper Soap) like (Camelot® O / Bondie Captan Jack) Fungicide/Bactericide. Labels seem to imply, it can be applied during the growing season but at a reduced rate to avoid leaf damage.
https://sepro.com/Documents/Camelot-O_Label.pdf.
I also looked a systemic (absorbed by plant) copper compound, but it basicly stated you couldnt eat the fruit for one year after application.
So it’s really important to me to understand these “copper compounds”.
There are also biocides (beneficial funguses) that i’m starting to investigate also.
Sometimes, in fact often, diseases are symptoms of environmental issues and peaches suffer just like your photos when trying to grow in mud. No species I grow is less tolerant of “wet feet”.
When the car stops running, first check it for gas.
I suggest planting them on berms in the future if rain tends to take significant time to drain. Peaches do better in berms in most places that can get a lot of rain during the growing season. I plant all species at least a bit raised, even in good drainage sites. .
