This section could almost be called “Pomes, And Everything Else And Don’t Forget Persimmons And Nuts”
My experience indicates that the these species work with the indicated grafts:
Pomes and plums: Almost any graft.
Everything else: Nothing. Well, that’s just me. Other people happily graft all those stone fruit, persimmons, hickories, and so on but aside from apricots I’ve had no experience with them, and the 'cots have been a failure (probably temperature related).
So I really wish somebody would finish this section for me. Please.
I’ve had many failures with apricots, one success! But as I say that’s probably temperature related. And plums are OK for me too. Never have needed to graft the others, but I gather they can be tricky, no?
I can say that cleft graft worked well for me with regard to persimmon (hybrid to American rootstock)
whip and tongue worked for my 2 (of 5 attempts) successful plum grafts.
Apples (which are rumored to be simple enough that one can just throw a scion onto the tree and have it work) have proved to not work for me at all (whip and tongue and one of those fancy omega cut grafts). Pawpaws, I tried cleft and was unsuccessful as well, though I blame timing on this one
Scott (who isn’t even trying this year because he was too busy recently to hunt down the scion he would need)
Yes, Ray just has it down, the rest of us are not happy with success rates. It appears timing is everything, and also having good wood. I notice peaches take longer to callus and this often leads to failure from drying out. So you have to keep these moist longer. maybe presoaking in Super Thrive and rooting hormone. Using something better than parafilm like buddy tape, and maybe even wrapping the graft in plastic. I’m going to try some other grafts this year The Z graft, and the companion graft for figs. Besides your normal everyday grafts.
For peaches and apricots its more timing, quality of stock and scion, and aftercare - the type of graft is low on the list of variables that matter.
The only type of fruits that seem inflexible on graft type are the nuts. I only tried a few myself and found them very challenging, even with the 4-flap graft.
I’m looking for advice from experienced grafters. The story may be a little long winded but here goes.
I bought two bare root apple (eating apple) trees some years ago. I’m not even sure I knew the variety, but one turned out to be a cooking apple. You can see a picture of this one below. How it came to be that shape, is a whole other story. Anyway, my question is this.
I have some spare eating apple scions and would like to try and graft them onto this cooking apple tree. Bearing in mind I’m a beginner, where would be the best place to graft them?
You have a well placed branch on the left side of the more upright trunk -it looks to be about 1 1/2 inches thick. I’d consider cutting it off square about 8-12 inches from the trunk and placing two cleft grafts on it. I would also cut a notch in the bark right above the branch to try to prevent auxin from higher up on the tree reaching your new graft - that can improve your success rate when grafting to an established tree.
Now if the diameter of the scion is about half the diameter of the rootstock… say scion is 1/4 inch and rootstock is 1/2 inch… I will use modified cleft.
It is a very easy graft to make and I have had 100% success rate with it… on cherry goumi persimmon, plum, etc…
Lastly the 3rd type of graft I have used… bark graft. Use it when the diameter of the rootstock is quite a bit larger than the scion. For example 1.5 inch callery pear rootstock and 1/4 inch pear scions.
@TNHunter and @marknmt . I’ve used the bark graft as shown in one of the images above. I started with the large stem 18 inches long. Messed that one up so cut a bit off and tried again. On the third attempt (down to 12 inches now), I decided I’ve almost got it right. Now it looks hopeful, but I’m not counting my chickens just yet. So thanks for all the advice and I’ll post a picture a bit later in the spring.
