I believe peach will not do well from cuttings, according to what I’ve found. I plan on a multi-trial [or seat of the pants trial] Apricot and peach on Halford peach seedling, peach tops to Adara. I have no idea if Halford seedlings are compatible, but Halford itself is. Here’s hoping I can foil the borers! If it works, I will probably go with Adara roots.
I just don’t want any suckering or problems with the Asian persimmons on American rootstock.
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@franc1969 Former member Alcedo had success with rooting peach. He had a website with the information and posted some of it here. I saved some of his information and will put it in the guide section if it is not there now.
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Peaches I hear are very difficult to graft successfully so be sure to search for keys to success there. Temperature is key I think, have not done it tho.
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That is one of the reasons I plan to try rooting cuttings @hambone. If I’m going to have low success with grafting regardless of how well I do, I might as well try rooting cuttings since 1. I can control the climate in my house and 2. I have a lot more chances available with much less effort and 3. Everything I’ve read leans towards rootstock choices not being as important for peaches as many other fruits.
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To up rates of grafts lower on the tree I recommend notching/ partial Girling of the bark just above grafted branches will stop flow of suppressing hormones and let them try and take off (they think they’re the top of the tree) skillcult did a video on using it to cause good branching and it works like a hot damn
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Is this what you are referring to?
I think this must be the video you are referring to
At the end he mentions a series on training fruit trees using this method. I found it too
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I’ve seen Skillcult’s demo of that . . . but never tried it. Yet. Think this might be the year!
Each year I seem to add a big skill to my ‘bag of tricks’ for growing fruit successfully.
It’s fun . . . and most of it is working for me. My ‘branching’ needs some attention, tho!
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I never thought of notching but I removed all the buds next to the terminal so I wouldn’t get any vertical shoot other than the terminal bud shoot. That way I only got side shoots that went more outward.
Yep that thread and the videos are what I was referring too…kind of tricks the plant to stop apical dominance from thwarting your plans
Yes, correct. I notch at green tip stage about 1/4 inch from the bud. Not 100% work so factor that in.
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Hi all,
I’ve been reading books, scrolling these type of posts, and watching a lot of videos about grafting. There is so much information to digest.
I started to create a summary table of the information, pulling from different sources, for myself and wondered if it would be helpful to try to get it into shape for “publishing”. It would have three sections:
- Benchgrafting
- Topworking/Frameworking
- Bud Grafting
It’s rough but the first page is probably the most complete. The key is to keep it simple as a summary of the basics and the process by fruit type. Links can be added to videos, posts or other websites to get more detailed information.
Questions:
- Useful to continue?
- If so, can you add comments to help fill in gaps?
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I’m getting ready to try my first hand at grafting this year (Pears and Shipova, so hopefully pretty user-friendly), and was looking for temflex (largely due to @disc4tw 's recommendation). But I could not find temflex at the local stores near me. They do carry “rubber splicing tape” made by other brands, though.
Duck Brand .75" x 22’ Rubber Electrical Splicing Tape, Blue - Walmart.com
Commercial Electric 3/4 in. x 22 ft. Rubber Splicing Tape 30005335 - The Home Depot
Are these the same thing as Temflex? Would they work well instead of Temflex? Any reason to pay the extra $2 for Duck Brand vs Commercial Electric?
Got mine at Lowe’s. The outside package is gone, but inside the roll reads electrical products division, 3M, 600 v Max.
Looking at the pictures it probably would work the same. I bought some from our local hardware store that was very similar to the Temflex when I needed it urgently and it worked quite well. Those are very much more expensive than what I pay for at Lowe’s (>$3).
If it is the thicker rubberized tape and not vinyl based, I’d say go for it, although I haven’t tried other brands yet. I really like that the rubber base allows you to stretch it as much (or as little) as you want. That, and because it stretches, it’s probably less likely to girdle the tree as it grows, although I need to test that theory.
It’s not good (imo) to leave it on. Obviously if you wrap a 1/4" or 1/2" tree 3-5 times around with electrical tape then you got a lot for the tree to fight off vs. less wraps. When me and buddy graft trees at above deer height we use electrical tape and my friend is near 80 and he’s been able to watch (grafting) now for 50-years I guess.
But, when I remove tape that’s been left on (his not mines’) trees, that has been on for probably 5 to 8 years, the bark is not white but it’s dis-colored and looks depraved of oxygen. Why do I say oxygen (it’s a theory) because, it looks the same as under bandaging that’s been on too long on skin. And, because bark looks similar when wind desiccates wood… it’s totally a guess.
And grafting big trees like we’re doing means we can pull pretty stiff on stuff (electrical tape, what’s “on sale” will work fine enough for me or him). We’re usually grafting 2" or 3" at that height having cut off the top of a tree and use the trunk and branches below for nursing, our-grafts.
We hang out and graft together and fool around and that kind of stuff. He’s my best-friend.
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I have been playing around with a little homemade jig to help me cut consistent whips on scionwood with my utility knife.
Works pretty good.
Once you get the whips cut nice and flat same length, etc… the tongue can be added for WT.
That one is 3/8 diameter… going to make another 1/2 or 7/16.
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You have to patent that immediately, it’s genius.
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Trev’s Block Grafter 
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