Yes it was a spring like weather here today. I may start some pre-callousing of some top working scions tomorrow and then graft several of them in about two weeks outdoors on my cherry trees that I am top working. Maybe do a couple each week until I finish.
I chip bud the cherry plum scion with plum buds, keep them indoors for a week to dark callous, then they are ready for grafting outdoors.
Callusing temperatures of Fruit and Nut trees
Keep in mind - if your graft doesnât take the first time, you can try again using other methods in the summer or later in the spring, but depending on what you are grafting (not sure what species) there is an optimal time to do it based on development of the buds.
BTW, I ran across the following chart. It shows the freeze damage temperature range by species and bud progression. It seem like it would be really helpful for freeze risk mitigation (knowing when to be concerned and when not to be)
Thanks @disc4tw I am going to try to graft cherries, peaches, and nectarines into the large purple leaf plum in our front yard. I know it is going to be a challenge but I want to try. My plan is to try a variety of grafting techniques and local species see what happens. I am going to throw a bunch against the wall and see what sticks.
Iâve still gotten 75% or better on apples grafted outside in the coldâŚbefore my hands got too cold to operate the knife and the wax too cold to use.
But, Iâve learned to bring my operation inside and make a big mess!
The take rates are a little better, and creature comforts are much better.
(Only the housecleaning is a pain.)
As Iâve often posted here, the only grafting method I use these days is a simple splice graft with a double bladed Italian pruner Leonard Double Cut Hand Pruners, 1-inch Cutting Capacity that gives me more control than a bypass and doesnât crush wood like a blade and anvil model. I use vinyl electric tape to connect scions with the water sprouts on trees I graft them to. I often use âbuddy tapeâ Budding Tape Perforated 1" x 2-3/4" x 192', which is very thin but stretchable parafilm designed specifically for grafting. I wrap the scion wood with it covering all exposed wood.
If the graft is to be a scaffold I usually start in from a water sprout close to the trunk on an existing scaffold the graft will gradually replace- the existing branch will help me pull the graft to more horizontal position over time. It usually takes about 3 years to complete the replacement.
If I have a central leader tree I will often graft to a water sprout directly attached to the trunk to gradually replace the trunk at the point of the graft, usually having the first tier as one variety and subsequent tiers as the other.
Iâve found two factors to be important for me, one that scion wood be stored in a way it doesnât rot but also doesnât dehydrate- rot being a real problem with peach and nectarine wood. I now store wood in a cheap fridge without defrost and keep wood loose in freezer bags with several bags held within a small garbage bag that has a moist rag in it.
The other factor it timing of grafts, optimum time varying with species. The earliest point in which grafts are likely to take is also the point that will likely give you best growth the first season. Pears, apples and J. plums seem to do best when grafted at or immediately (3-4 days) before first growth while peaches seem to do best shortly after petal fall for me. I still am not sure of what works best for E. plums. Best to graft when a stretch of clear, relatively warm weather is predicted.
If you can match diameter of scion to water sprout closely, matching both sides of cambium is easy and pulling the tape wonât pull wood from contact. Otherwise you need to be sure at least one side is contacting the cambium of the other.
Donât know what works best. Here is one graft that surprised me. In August an E. Plum branch was cut and two pieces where grafted to Santa Rosa that day. They grew vigorously the following year.
Yes, wait for any outdoor grafting such as what you are trying. The callus chart is your best guide for determining when to start. When outdoor ambient begins to approach about 70-80% of the optimum each day, that is most probably when you can get two continuous weeks of near optimum ambient temps. If you think you are starting early or the temps begin to drop after your first grafts, then wrap the graft union in a dark poly fabric and cover that material with a clear plastic bag until temps get back above optimum. Usually 2-3 weeks is all it takes to get a strong graft union. Ideally the union can fully form before your scion buds break. In your case you may want to spread your grafts over a few weeks and label each with the date so that you learn which work best. Remember to start on the sunny side leaving any grafting on the shaded side for warmer ambient temps.
Hope this gives you some useful ideas
Dennis
I want to do splice grafts where I can but for the Scionwood I have, most of the 1st year wood is 1/8" and the tree I am grafting into is old so almost all of the lower branches/shoots are larger than that. I do have a few 1y wood Scions where the diameters will match but most of the larger diameter Scions are 2y wood. So I my plan is:
Splice graft 1y Scions were I can
Bark/Side graft more 1y Scions
Splice graft some 2y Scions (maybe try banana graft)
I canât tell if you are looking for advice to help be successful, or if mostly your goal is to have fun with some scions.
In my view, its especially important to follow good practices for any chance of success when you are just starting out. There are a number of elements of your plan that will make it especially exciting and notable if your graft attempts ever fruit.
But we each have our own reasons for doing this stuff, with our own experiences and expectations. I donât want to squelch your enthusiasm, but also for others looking here as a resource, who may have different expectations, I wouldnât recommend your course.
My main goal is to get successful grafts but I have to work with what I have and the limbs I can reach on the tree are 1-2". There are some lower shoots but they are almost all 1/4"-1/2" at the base and about 5ft long. For the Scionwood I have, most of the 1st year wood is 1/8". I have a few (1-4) places where I could do a decent whip/splice but not many and I the advice I have seen here on GF is to stick with 1st year growth for Scions.
Given that context and how much Scionwood I have, it seems like experimenting with other techniques increases my chances.
I agree, I want to follow good practices and get advice so that I increase my chance of success but I do have constraints
Iâm going from recall, so you can correct if I misstate. And if this is more detail than you care to share broadly, I will edit or retract.
From what I recall, you are planning to graft dormant scions of peach curl susceptible peaches and nectarines directly to the lower canopy of a mature ornamental purple leafed plum in the Willamette Valley. You will retain most of the canopy of the plum tree. I donât remember if youâve been pruning it, but generally these trees have a crowded canopy with lots of vertical limbs. They are the ones that are a beautiful pink cloud for a couple of weeks each March if the weather cooperates.
Scion branches were collected a few weeks ago, and stored in large bags, and you plan to process them into scions now for storage until you are ready to graft.
Some potential roadblocks to overcome:
Are peaches compatible with this plum variety?
Is the scion wood in good condition, and can you keep it that way until you graft?
My understanding is that peaches need warm weather for scions to take. That may be June. A long time to store scions. (peach are more difficult than most, the buds protrude, are fleshy, break bud early, and in our region appropriate healthy growth may be difficult to find, although your source must have a good spray regime, so you may have a leg up there).
The area has severe leaf curl pressure. If the scions take, and start to grow - how will you protect them from curl?
Grafts will need to fight apical dominance to take and grow. (The tree growth wants to occur at tips of branches at the extremity of tree, especially high in the crown. It is suppressed elsewhere)
You are learning how to graft and will have a learning curve for completing the elements correctly. (normally for a first time, this is the obstacle to overcome, I would want to optimize all the other conditions above this as much as possible. Meaning, replace entire top of healthy tree with the new variety, easy to graft species like apple that can be grafted in cool weather, disease resistant scion variety, known compatible combination, etc)
