I have found that is not an easy question to find and answer to. From a Botanical view, there is not much research on Prunus Cerasifera (the Purple Leaf Plum). I have found some information online.
The topic Rootstock Graft Compatibility
does list some think compatibilities but the Scions I have are not on that list. It did have a reference to an article Adara, A Plum Rootstock for Cherries and Other Stone Fruit Species which says “Adara was selected from an open-pollinated population of Myrobalan (P. cerasifera Ehrh.), although its genetic identity has not been defined.” (Purple Leaf plum is also P. Cerasifera) and it does say that “, according to the criteria of Herrero (1951) and Mosse (1962). Peaches and nectarines grafted on Adara display different compatibilities depending on the cultivar, but a high proportion appears to
be compatible with this rootstock” but it does not list the specific varieties I have. It does list two of the cherries I have Scion (Bing and Rainier) as being compatible.
Yes, I believe it is (now). As you mentioned I am in process on preparing it for storage in the fridge. Hopefully it will be fine in March when I need it.
I will do my best to save some of the Peach Scions until June. If nothing takes from March, maybe I will try again in June.
I am going to do my best to use the disinfection techniques discussed in Good system for preparing winter dormancy graft cuttings to prevent that, but if I do get one of those to start to grow, at least I will have leaned something. My first step is just to get one of the grafts to take.
As you can see from the photo, “high in the crown” is not an option for me. There is some growth on the lower limbs and I am going to try to leverage into that when possible.
Do you have any other recommendations - other then Top Working the tree which is also not an option?
This is primarily an ornamental tree. Replacing the top is not an option and I don’t have an apple tree so that is not an option for me right now - maybe in the future. At least some of what I am grafting seems to be a “known compatible combination” so maybe I can avoid epic failure on my first attempt.
I just wanted to let you know that the tape included with that kit gave me extremely poor results. I had half of my apple bench grafts fail that I used it on. I highly recommend getting buddy tape instead but maybe I was doing something else wrong. Regardless I wish you luck!
@disc4tw Thanks, I wouldn’t want to have my first grafts fail because I didn’t have the right tape. Can you recommend something on Amazon or that I can find local?
This is what you want, and probably the best price you’ll find. That roll will last you a long long time. It wasn’t in stock the last time I looked, ebay is the other option. I’ve ordered multiple items from sumo and they are great.
I regrafted a few scions that scratched green but had absolutely no growth. I labeled them with an L for late to keep track and grafted them into another tree. I was pleased that they took
@markshancock This is where I bought, great price, Japanese language box. When you buy the thinner tape though, he just cut the roll, so better if you do that yourself as you go. Lasted through 200+ grafts plus scion wrappings. So worth it compared to other grafting tapes, but I have not tried actual Parafilm yet.
Same graft, except I create more cambium contact with a longer, sharper cut. The cheap electric tape is what I use, although you can use the rubber stuff and not have to worry about the tape girdling the graft as it grows as it does sometimes when used for apples- you can cut it with a razor knife once the graft is strong but I usually unwrap the tape the following very early spring and just cut when too much bark is coming off with the tape. More likely to be a problem when the bark is slipping.
I’ve had miracle grafts also, half the time they runt out, it seems.
I forgot to mention the importance of the scion wood being positioned front and back the same way they were on the tree they came from. It’s obvious when you look for it but you can get lost in other details. If you put them backwards it stunts growth a great deal.
I’ve shown clients how to do a splice graft in 5 minutes and they’ve had great success their first tries. The hardest part is holding the scion in place while you wrap it with tape, but it’s easier to master than a whip and tongue.
@franc1969 I looks like you intended on a link but I didn’t see one. Where did you get the tape?
If you to just edit your original reply, PM me after you do and I’ll delete this reply
I think his meaning is that the end of the Scion that originally faced the tree must be the end you graft with. Good point, I should flag that when I prepare Scions with two cut ends when I cut my Scions but I suspect you can also tell if from the direction of the buds on the Scion.
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So my reply was about Sumo Bonsai Supply, whose link I did not need to repeat.
That is what I meant. I somehow couldn’t think of a clear way to word but the photo shows how obvious it is where the buds should be pointing. It’s obvious even when completely dormant as long as you are looking for it. I’ve only made that mistake once and the graft survived and eventually grew like normal wood, but I lost a season. No matter, it was one of several grafts of the same variety on the same tree. I was converting a Red Delicious.
Self fusing and stretchable silicon tape is an option. It doesn’t have adhesive so it is easy to remove with a single razor cut. I use it with parafilm underneath but it can be used by itself. It is more expensive than electric tape.
The advantage of straight electric tape is its strength, which is important when using a splice graft as the graft itself does not secure the scion. I’m guessing the silicon tape is not nearly as strong, although I’ve never used it. If I’m wrong, please correct me.
