And as rootstock come in in bundles, plunk them in tight to one side. As I graft I’d like to lay them sideways so they’re buried and in layers. Unfortunately if I were to do this it would compromise the space next to my billiards table. I may still do it and have it going next-winter since I could still shoot pool w/o to much of an interruption to my game. Put that tank right on top of my heat mats as shown above.
I harvest apple scionwood in late December, apple rootstocks arrive in mid-January. I graft and ship the next day with no callusing period to warm climates, where they sprout in about two weeks and grow vigorously. Places like Bangladesh are well into the 100’s during this sprouting period, so they keep them in the shade of a macadamia tree for a couple weeks.
How do you package them to keep the graft from getting moved out of place during shipping. Plan on trying to ship a few just grafted apple rootstock later this spring.
I do a cleft graft trimmed down to one bud, then taped with vinyl tape and the whole tip wrapped in parafilm. DHL changes planes 5 times before it arrives overseas, after which it gets a bouncy truck ride and then motor scooter. The take rate is almost 100% still, as there’s excellent cambium contact on a graft like this.
No, it’s just like thin tree tying tape, 1/2" clear vinyl slick on both sides. I buy it from Fruit Grower Supply, the supply coop store for Sunkist citrus growers. When the guy at the counter asks what account this is for, I sheepishly say “Kuffel Creek Apple Nursery”. Heads up and down the counter turn, and I feel like a sheep farmer in the middle of cattle country.
Very nice @applenut. I picked up a utility cutter very similar to this one and decided to try it out. My results weren’t nearly as good so I think I need a lot more practice. I think one thing I need to do is sharpen the blade.
So you walk into Fruit Grower Supply, and it’s like those movies where a stranger walks into the bar, and the record screeches, and everybody stops what they’re doing and gives you the side-eye?
Those blades are relatively inexpensive. I think I got 100 of them for under $25 at our local larger hardware store. The blades do hold up fairly well, couldnt give you a exact number but I think at least 3-4 dozen cuts is per blade is typical.
I use the same blade all season and buff it to mirror sharpness on a leather wheel loaded with buffing compound on a slow-speed sharpener. You can do the same with progressive wet/dry sandpapers and a sharpening guide. The difference between factory sharp and mirror sharp really makes a difference. I do the same on my grafting utility knife blade I use for cleaning up cuts.
I’ll be putting a set of plans out after grafting season, too busy right now.
39th, I’m glad you mentioned that a whip and tongue graft is superior to grafts made with the tool and will have a higher take rate. I tried grafting for the first time last spring using the tool, and only one of 22 grafts took. I also didn’t seal the tips with wax, just imitating what I saw on a video where the guy just wrapped the plastic ribbon around the graft. This spring I plan to try with scions from my own trees plus a few new ones from GRIN not using the tool.
With a little knife practice, you will be able to join larger area of cambium then the cuts made with the tool. I would suggest a utility knife with a new blade that has been cleaned to remove oils. Grafting Knives are great but, they must be sharpened which is another skill. I would order a roll of parafilm and be sure to seal the ends this time. Cheap masking tape will also work in a pinch. I wish you much grafting success!
@Barkslip what was the issue caused by the “Walmart shavings”? I have never bench grafted and am using mostly shavings to hold the grafted rootstocks in while they callous over, and possibly for a few weeks after that until it’s warm enough outside to plant them. I’m in zone 5B in NH.
