Bench grafting technique for persimmons/peaches/etc


I think it’s a combination of both. For me, Virginiana sends suckers even when left unbothered but does it more often after graft cuts.


Thanks to all the help on this and other threads, I had great success on my persimmons. Now that we’re going in to fall, I’m curious about the other side of the equation. I’ve read that persimmon bench grafts can be a lot more tender than an established tree. Is this true, and if so, what kind of protection should I give them? I’m right on the 5b/6a boundary for reference, but in town so it takes the edge off a bit.

My options are:

  1. Sink the pots in ground and cover with leaves and/or row cover.
  2. Place pots against low, South-facing stone wall and mound with leaves and/or row cover.
  3. Place pots against North side of house and mound with leaves and/or row cover.
  4. Unheated, detached garage (drafty)
  5. Unheated, attached mud room (gets warm on sunny days)
  6. Exterior basement stairs (not sure if sinking cold air would negate or override ground heat/heat from house)


How it works for potted trees is this, Jay. If you have an insulated room that’s heated and may be kept above freezing, then that’s your go to always. Ideally and to save on fuel cost, that room should be 33-34 degrees.

The next place is always in-ground. Either sink the pots or plant when you have a trench in place and plant and cover with 3" of mulch. Poultry caging, as-well.



I vote for option #1
Put pots in ground, ( well drained area)
Cover tops (well above graft Union) with insulating mulch.
I have lost a few grafts the first year, to ground level.
Ernie Grimo , recommends covering above the graft Union with a mound of soil for first 2 years.
This has saved some persimmon grafts here .


@Barkslip @Hillbillyhort good advice, as always. Looks like I have some digging to do.