That’s what I usually do now as well. I used to coat over the top with petroleum based pruning sealer. I did come to the conclusion that on some bark grafts the sealer would “ooze” down between cambiums and prevent callousing, however. I don’t want to mess around with trying to keep grafting wax warm when I’m field grafting.
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Exactly what i did went over it with parafilm but then used the clay over the parafilm cleft grafts. It worked great.
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For $15 I think I’ll pick up a block and give it a try. Thanks
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This tree coat product has worked well for me. It is quite thick and easy to apply… has a brush attached to the lid.
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I’ve used similar products with similar results, however I’ve had some failures and the only reason I can come up with is that sealant prevented cambium contact. That could be due to less than perfect cuts on my part as well I suppose. I skipped the sealant for the most part last year and my success rate was about the same. I believe I’m done with sealant, but I’m interested in trying the clay just for kicks.
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I’ve used Johnny wax in the past but it might have issues. Roofing tar is what I was first taught to use and I never had problems with it outside of mess. One of our members here saves that red wax off of cheese balls, sorry I don’t remember just who. I think some people like Elmer’s glue or latex paint. I think a spray on product would be nice, if anybody could recommend one.
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I’m wondering if folks in milder climates need it?
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I have a few jar of candle, I’m debating into testing them as wax sealer. Will it work?
I picked some of this up yesterday. I was going to with the clay, but saw it at a place I stopped at for seeds.
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Parafilm is the best, it is easy to use, can pull everything tight, and is destroyed in a year or so of sun. I’ve used other things like tape, rubber bands, plastic, ets… they have to be removed or girdle the tree or if your lucky they just become trash blowing around. Parafilm does seem to get brittle with age and you need to buy fresh every year or so. I don’t like putting the parafilm over the buds though (they will poke through but sometimes they get “funny looking” and kind of weaker).
When bench grafting I also use wax, usually 50/50 beeswax and paraffin. Paraffin is a bit too brittle alone (will crack off). Bees wax is fine alone but is a bit sticky. Any wax (toilet, candle, etc.) will work pretty well though. I pretty much coat the entire scion and graft (right over the parafilm), bud will push through wax.
When field grafting I will cut the scions to a couple buds, dip the top in wax to seal, drop the pieces in a cup of water, then go outside and and graft (using parafilm). If the rootstocks haven’t leafed out yet then spray can treekote (asphalt) works to cover the scion. I don’t like the spray when there are leaves because it gets all over.
Latex paint works but not as well.
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Good thing I read this, I only buy one roll at a time. I still have 1/2 roll of Parafilm. I might dip the top of the cutting in wax candle.
Wish I had read this sooner. I stocked up because of the difficulty obtaining parafilm and buddy tape in Canada. The delivery times can also take quite a while to get here, so I figured best to order 4 rolls of parafilm. I have them stored in ziplock bags. Will that help extend parafilm’s storage time, and hopefully still be usable in a few years?
What can be used to coat the whole scion?
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I never used any sealant/wax. Just parafilm and recently switched to buddy tape. Given my success rate so far, I don’t see a reason to use it in my climate and the type of grafts that I do.
I make my own from beeswax, but use it the same way. Easy to keep handy.
@clarkinks … you are right about that mulberry. I grafted it last spring.
Below is what it looked like in October.
8 shoots off those 4 scions… grew 6 ft or more by season end.
Hopefully we are eating mulberries this year.
TNHunter
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I suspect Gashell is a good bit stickier, but if beeswax sticks well enough it might be more pleasant to work with. Gashell does tend to stick onto your hands. .