I was reading up on Orus 2711-1 that you mentioned and it appears to ripen about the same time as TC, which I believe is a parent or at least a cousin of sorts. Unfortunately that puts it SWD season for me, so that may be a disqualifier. I’m trying to stick to blackberries that ripen earlier in the season. How similar is the flavor to TC?
Navaho is also in the parentage which ripens a little later than TC does. Navaho is decent so in TC. Seems like it would be a similar berry to these two, and they are similar to each other IMHO. I have both growing here. Not sure I would really need 2711 either? A third cultivar that is not named (ORUS 1122-1) is also in the parentage of Orus 2711-1. ORUS 1122-1 was also used for Obsidian.
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2711-1 ripened before TC and with Osage. Osage had a very long ripening window for me, they were coming in both before and after 2711-1. Note that 2711-1 and Osage are in different part of my yard and that may have affected the timing.
@Drew51, I don’t grow Navaho so can’t compare with it. For me 2711-1 is better than TC, the very best TC berries are as good but they are not as consistent for me. 2711-1 is consistently good.
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OK, thanks for the info, sounds like it is worth a try for me. I’ll look for it to be released. If anybody sees it retail, let us know.
I took a look online for more info about 2711-1 and found some interesting documents (I know, they are easy to find, but I figured that some people (like I until now) may not have looked).
One of the most striking pictures was of 3447-2, tentatively named Colombia Giant:
Did you grow 3447-2 as well Scott? It looks like it will be released at some time in the next year.
I really want to plant that one and I’m thinking about growing more of these trailing blackberries (in addition to Newberry and Boysenberry). The problem is space, but I may have a (partial) solution. Since they take a lot of ground space for the first year canes, maybe I can grow one of these at the end of each row of trees. Then I can have the new canes grow along the row and only put them up in the spring.
Edit: One more link, which mentions that 3447-2 ripens a few days after Marion. This should put it before SWD, as Marion is 3 weeks before 2711-1 (the one which is doing very well for Scott).
http://www.berriesnw.com/sfu/2014/01-sfu01-02-14.pdf
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Bob those are amazing looking berries. Who do you think will be releasing them? Thanks
It looks like they are coming from USDA-ARS Corvallis, but I’m not sure what nurseries will pick them up. If I was to guess, I would say Raintree and maybe Indiana Berry.
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Yeah i saw those berries too! Natchez produces a huge berry too, not that big but close! Here’ a couple along with Chandler blueberries. Another huge berry bush. The chandler blueberries are very good if left on the bush a long time. Natchez produces early and keeps producing for a long time. The berry size varies, although most are huge! It is the most cold hardy of the thornless I have. the taste is not great, I like them for processing only. Again I have found you have to leave these on as long as possible for best taste. All the same with it’s big size, prolific production, cold hardiness, it’s a keeper for me. Cooked it tastes as good as any blackberry.
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Scott, which flavor did you prefer, Osage or 2711-1? Thanks
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Its hard to compare. One was more fruity, the other had more of the classic deep dark flavor of a blackberry. I am currently planning on having both in my long-term planting. Assuming they are before SWD when it eventually shows up in my neighborhood 
Re: these other new ORUS experimental varieties, I have only been looking at the ones with some eastern berry in them as of late. I grew out a previous batch of selections from Chad Finn’s breeding program around ten years ago and they were all duds, they could not take my heat. Columbia Star was the only recent pure western one I tried and it seems to also be not taking the heat. Oh Newberry looks good - that one is an exception looks to be a keeper. I think the raspberry in it (and in Siskiyou, Kotata, etc) make them relatively more durable for me. Anything without raspberry genes and without eastern berry genes has been a bust for me.
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Thanks Scott.
One of the best places to get berry plants. better than Nourse or just as good is Indiana Berry. Why this site is so overlooked I don’t know? They have Osage for $4.25.
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Well most of you guys know about Indiana Berry but on sites like Tomatoville only Nourse is often mentioned. When Indiana berry is just as good or better.
https://indianaberry.com/index.php
The raspberries there are huge and awesome!
They.also have Black Mac for $4.10
I would like to add Osage and Black mac one day, I just don’t have room now. Many suggested Osage, and Black mac is a good late black raspberry you mentioned. So a good choice to extend the black raspberry season.
All of their plants are cheap, but the service and plants are top rate.
What I like too is you can buy one plant, not have to buy three.
They have some awesome strawberries too. Some new ones for this year of raspberries and strawberries. Man I need another acre!!
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I buy most of my plants from Indiana Berry. Good prices, excellent plants, great service, and for me a 1 day delivery via UPS ground. 
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Not to stray too far from the initial post, but groworganic.com has an offer for free shipping if you sign up for their newsletter. They carry several of the more popular western trailing blackberries which usually require putting up about $20 for shipping from the West Coast. I have purchased a couple of times from them and they send good looking plants…so the one caveat…they ship berry plants in January! So…make sure you have a plan for bridging the gaps between January and your Spring time. I just put them in a pot with some dirt and keep them cool in the garage until I can plant them in March or April. They also sell smaller rolls of the Agribon row covers for covering the plants in cold weather.
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Yes, and also extremely easy to do that with trees too. I can take trees anytime.
Thanks for the tip, wish i had room argh!
Drew, from your pictures it looks like your brambles are all right next to each other. Do you have a good technique for keeping them for sending up runners and new canes all over the place? How do you keep them apart? I tried burying large pieces of slate vertically in my rows, hoping this would let me keep a few varieties per row, but it didn’t work.
Nourse has been a leader in Tissue Culture and virus index processes on brambles for a long time.
Indiana Berry may be just as good, but I’m not sure
I’ve tried 1-2 different blackberries over the years, but I keep just going back to one my ex Mother in law grew for years. She called it a Logan berry, but it’s not that. they berries are smaller than some types, but still respectable. Why this one? Easy, it’s wonderfully hardy and I don’t get much dieback or any disease issues.
The berries are tart, though they are good if you leave them until they start to fall apart. Production is good and it always roots a few stems for me. I think it and trip,e crown are all I have remaining in the yard (and its holding its own in the midst of my currants)
Scott
Drew, you mentioned a “local” yellow blackberry? Please, do tell.
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