I echo everything mentioned above but thought I would add what I use as warm temperature clarification. I wait until daytime temps are in the 70’s and nighttime temps are increasing. I was told that you could actually graft until the temps get to low 80’s during the day. I have grafted to fully leafed out rootstocks and had excellent results. And I agree with @Harbin about the chip budding. I sometimes have problems with the cuts for whip & tongue and cleft but chip buds are fun for me and work really well on persimmons, plus it reduces trying to match up scion/rootstock sizes.
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Here near Portland, OR I’ve only had success when fully leafed out and inches of growth. I think the key there is the 70+ degree daytime highs. We don’t get that until May, or June.
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Hi guys, very useful info about persimmon. I would like to ask your advise about grafting my persimmon. I bought a couple of years ago a Vaniglia grafted kaki but the scion died. Hopefully from the rootstock I have 3 nice stems and I plan to graft on each stem a different variety, on the first hand to have more cultivars on the same tree and secondly to improve pollination. What do you think would be my chances for success. I believe a whip and tongue graft will do the job, the diameters of the stems are between 1-5 to 2 cm. The kaki lives in zone 6, in Romania. I show you a couple of pictures.
. I know the topic is about American persimmon but I think dyospiros kaki should not be very different and I didn’t find such information elsewhere. Regards, Catalin
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