I have identified another thornless, primocane fruiting, purple raspberry. This one is from and F2 seedling. It has 50% Black raspberry and 50% red raspberry but is light purple. The dark purple raspberry is a backcross to red, so is 25% black raspberry and 75% red raspberry. You would think that the cross with more black raspberry in it would have darker purple fruit but this was not the case. This is why I love breeding, there is usually something that turns up unexpected.
It is not as strongly primocane fruiting as the dark purple, which makes sense, as black raspberries are more floricane fruiting. The red raspberry I backcrossed to, is very strongly primocane fruiting.
If the plant you got was from a white plastic bag, i don’t know who that supplier is but they’ve sent out mislabeled plants for years. I wouldn’t trust it to be the real ebony king. That’s how some of us got wineberries lol
My Darrow from Isons never broke dormancy, I’ve gotta replace that one. Might grab one from Menards, if those are true to their name. All three of my Honey Jewels from ION never did anything either. The rest of my plants did ok, it was a very dry summer so not the best for establishing new plants.
I’d like to get cascade gold, honey queen, and Ilinni hardy. Haven’t started looking around yet, I had to replace tires on both of my vehicles so extra money for plants has been scarce.
wineberry is actually one of the fully illegal plants to sell in New York, so I wonder what would come from some sort of mixup like that in ny. though i kind of feel like i saw wineberry at home depot last year just straight up labeled.
illegal here too but ive seen people growing them. so are blackcurrants, autumn olives and seaberries but folks growing them as well. seems like the more illegal it is, more people want to grow it.
My experience with Darrow over the years were disasters. First ones were virus infected so no berries. Most recent one has tiny berries. Still trying to eradicate that one. Never again.
Is a 20 gallon growbag big enough for two loganberry plants for 2 or 3 seasons? I have 5 20 gallons (which isn’t as big as I thought) and was wondering what I can squeeze in together. I assume its not big enough for 2 loganberries and a yellow raspberry.
I have each bramble in a 20 gallon grow bag. Most brambles will naturally multiply in their container- I don’t see an advantage to having two logan berries in a single grow bag
Planted out my larger Mysore into a 20 gallon growbag. This will be a row of 5 growbags, 4 of which are brambles: 2 loganberries, a mysore and a Fall Yellow. I need to set up a trellis over them, just haven’t decided if it needs to be a string trellis or a metal fence piece.
A better picture of the layout before I put the mysore in. In between the Fall Gold and the empty growbag (in this picture, it now has the Mysore), I put a 25 gallon growbag that has Yacon in it. On the other side of the Mysore will go the other loganberry. I think that will give the trailing loganberries the most space on a trellis, while still giving me space to work with the more erect raspberries.
After 10 years i finally think i have located and am obtaining a non- thornless Loganberry.
This strange little nursery is run by one of the offshoots of the Pense family as far as I can tell. I have emailed them and confirmed that they are selling the original Loganberry with spines.. not the thornless ones.
I have no idea if its better or worse or even true to name.. just passing this along.
This is one of the few comparisons that i have seen-
Thanks for the (potentially) amazing discovery.
I placed a minimum order (5 bare-root x $6/plant + reasonable USPS Ground Advantage)
I’ll see how it goes.
Their photos look correct per caneberry variety.
Their mature growth length spec is very conservative (the mature lengths of all their caneberries was under 10 feet)(perhaps that would be typical in Texas).
Also for consideration i think i found a true source for Choctaw blackberry as well as Cheyenne. (also Lawton which i dont think is worth growing).
This nursery is located in Oklahoma and also has Ebay and Etsy stores.
For those looking for another early ripening blackberry to beat the SWD in your area they are both probably worth growing if you can handle the thorns..
Most information about these older (obsolete as U of Ark says).. is old as almost nobody grows these any longer.
Cheyenne as i stated earlier is also available at RH Shumway.. but i dont remember seeing a true source of Choctaw before.
I have no idea if these are true to name or not..but being in Oklahoma and the effort that they are putting into it i would say that its likely that they are.
alright ive decided to just bite the bullet and replace my terrible blackberry that came to the house.
Looking for suggestions on varieties for replacement. I already have a ponca. Id prefer slightly thornless but its not a deal breaker. floricane bearing is fine. I think id prefer something late season.
The rubus and ribes i have i guess for reference if that affects decision.
Ponca blackberry
jewel black raspberry
Bristol black raspberry
Glencoe purple
Brandywine purple
fall gold raspberry
heritage raspberry
purple flowering raspberry
poorman gooseberry
hopefully adding jeanne gooseberry
orus 8 gooseberry
jahns prarie gooseberry
jostaberry
black velvet gooseberry
I’m in the northeast, it doesnt get full sun in the spot it is but it gets close to it.
I looked him up and he said those photographs are from the nursery he got them from in Ontario, Canada. He does list the correct variety name in other comments though. Probably false labeled but who knows… if they can get them in Canada, we might have a chance here one day
Looking forward to what is being recommended for @snarfing!
My raspberries are unhappy in their current location (all day full sun) and I’m going to put in a new bed for them. Other folks in the south/mid-atlantic have mentioned that they have the most success with less afternoon direct sun.
The new location gets about 4 hours of direct morning sun but I will be able to control how much afternoon sun they get by moving this bed closer or further from a nearby wall of trees (which is a property boundary running N-S).
How much direct afternoon sun should they get? I was thinking of letting them have direct sun till 2:30 April-Oct. It’d be till about 3pm June, July, Aug. Too much? too little? too late in the afternoon?
And the varieties I have are: Caroline Raspberry, Autumn Britten Raspberry and Jaclyn Raspberry. I also have a Newberry that seems happy where it is, but I’ll move some anyway. This year, I ordered Cascade Delight Raspberry, Latham Raspberry, Nova Raspberry, and Tulameen Raspberry.
