Bleach Solution

The cuttings I received from @Drew51 have been in the fridge @ 39f. I opened them last night and detected some mold growth but other wise they look healthy. What is the proper bleach solution for cleaning cuttings and scions?

1tsp to 1 quart of water
1tsp to 1 gallon of water
10%
1:5

I got some scions from ARS last year. Kept them in the fridge, a few developed mold, but I was too terrified to wash them with bleach in case I killed them.

Grafted them, got about 80% takes (first time grafter) and didn’t notice a difference between moldy ones and unmoldy ones.

I think we’re conditioned to think fungus=bad but sometimes fungus=harmless. For the record, mine was a gray-ish fuzzy looking mold.

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I’m using 10% and haven’t hurt any cuttings so far that I can tell. I think it probably helps some during rooting. I haven’t cleaned my cuttings before storage because so far they haven’t molded in the fridge. Some I had in an unheated shed for a month did mold. I treated those and put them in the fridge.

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I probably had them too moist, they were fresh cut.

Folks, instead of bleaching the scions prior to storage, dip them in dilute Cu 1/2 tsp/qt kocide and let them dry, they come out perfect, Cu does not go away.

Eric

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That should work and should not hurt the figs. Thanks for the idea.

10 percent bleach would be strong enough I would be worried about causing damage to the buds and or bark. I did it on accident with some persimmon wood and realized very quickly it was Leaching color. I rinsed the scions and everything was OK with them having been in there for about three minutes but I would’ve been concerned about storing them after the bleach wash still wet

Thanks for the answers I think I found some reference material to go by.

An Oregon health department document regarding Babies and health care define Sanitization levels are 100ppm and disinfecting levels are 600 PPM. Oklahoma State on the other hand says defines Sanitation of food preparation equipment as 200 PPM.

Standard Bleach used to be between 5.25%-6.00% EPA Regular Please is now 8.25%

So to get 600PPM using 5.25% was 1/4 cup per gallon and EPA regular bleach is 2 Tablespoons per gallon.

Do folks so this kind of thing or the other Hydrogen Peroxide idea I saw on a fig cuttings thread for rooted cuttings too? Or for rooted plants they get from other gardeners too?

I recently got some rooted blackberries and while the person who sent them to me seems super knowledgeable and well respected here, I was wondering about pathogens they may have in their soil they don’t even know about.
On the other hand, I don’t ever worry about this kind of stuff with things from the nursery. So maybe I’m over thinking it!

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As @lordkiwi said 1 oz (2 tablespoons) per gallon will sterilize. Soak for 2 minutes and then rinse. If there is visible mold I would use 2 oz/ gal.

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I’ve never treated any cuttings and can’t fig cuttings just be stored stuck in potting soil and just keeping the potting soil moist- keeping them wherever you are keeping your fig trees? I stuck some cuttings in the ground before covering it and a fig tree with leaves surrounded by a ring of fence last fall. I’m about ready to take away the fencing and leaves so I will see how they look soon.

If you are storing cuttings in a fridge it has to help to have it set at as close to freezing as possible. When I set my kitchen fridge to 33 degrees instead of the recommended higher temp, food started lasting literally twice as long so presumably it would also help preserve cuttings. What I’ve found makes cuttings rot sometimes is wrapping them tightly in plastic, I now store them loosely in ziplocks within a plastic bag holding a moist rag. My scion fridge has not auto-defrost so scions aren’t prone to dehydrating anyway.

But I never store fig cuttings, at least not until last fall.

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The thing about trading brambles that is bad is the spread of viruses. Other pathogens like root rot I would not worry about unless you live in a wet environment. Plus compost contains bacteria that feed on the root rot fungi. So keeping soil aerated with compost should eliminate fungi.
I offered ARS some rare brambles and they were not interested because they consider all brambles in the field virus infected. They also had a source that was clean. Viruses are a problem with brambles. When you put any bramble in your yard from home gardens you are risking infection. . I do it anyway but I’m aware of the issue. I feel what i have appears to be resistant. I’m sure my brambles are infected.
Black raspberries are the most susceptible rubus species so are good to have like a canary in a coal mine. If you have grown them and after a few years they die out. You probably have a virus infection. I introduced a wild black raspberry from Ontario. It appears virus free or 100% asymptomatic. I bred it into other blacks and they seem to be thriving. Niwot and Jewel died out on me. All I have is what I bred now. Things seem healthier. Like a natural cross appeared in my yard. A cross between black and red raspberries resulting in the first purple primocane fruiting raspberry. So I figure things are fine, not only are my new blacks thriving and rooting all over I have natural crosses occurring. What will I find next?
Getting rid of viruses is hard so keep in mind the risk when trading brambles. Assume they are infected. I’m pretty sure mine are so keep that in mind when trading with me.
I have an extra virus resistant Lynn’s Black if anybody wants to take a chance with a trade. It’s a beauty with quarter sized black raspberries on the primocanes. See the thread black raspberries in October for photos.

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When you purchase stratified ginseng seeds most of the suppliers are northern artificial shade, cultivated soil growers… they grow it densely and have to battle fungal issus (spray fungicides regular) to keep it healthy for 3 4 5 years until harvest

The berries are processed to make stratified seed… and sold.

It is recommended that the seed be treated with a 10% clorox solution for 10 minutes.

Like. 9 cups of water 1 cup of clorox.

Dump your pound or two of seed in… remove any floaters after 10 minutes (good seeds sink).

I remember being worried about using 10% clorox bleach on seeds that were costing near 100.00 per pound.

But my germiation rates on seed treated like that was very high… 85-90% on most batches.

Many of the seeds were “tailing” and should be at that point if properly stratified… meaning the embryo inside the seed had grown/swolen causing the seed coat to split open… and a little tail of the initial root was sticking out the crack in the seed coat.

Yes… 10% clorox treated for 10 minutes… and very good germination rates.

If an exposed seed embryo and initial root tip can thrive after 10% bleach for 10 min… surly a scion can.

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