One reason chip might work better late in summer is that growth of the understock often slows or stops. T budding only works if the bark is slipping. Chip budding it doesn’t matter.
Try both. That’s how we all learn how to do this.
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Thanks, just a few months ago similar words encouraged me to try my first grafting…which was quite successful.
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I’ve been wondering about something and just now saw some explanatory drawings that make me wonder about it even more: does the cambium layer lift with the bark when T-budding? If so it seems like the understock cambium would sit on top of the bud bark, and the bud cambium would be against the wood and not have direct contact with the understock cambium. Chip budding would put the cambiums in contact with each other if there was much accuracy in the alignments of the parts involved. Here is a drawing of the layers of the bark/wood; where does the cambium layer end up with these two techniques? With a cleft graft there has to be some exact alignment: ~1/2 the scion edge; so it seems like a T-bud deal wouldn’t even work. There is that secondary/living phloem stuff. Things that make ya go hmmm.
I’m thinking that the typical scenario is that the cambium goes up with the bark:
Does any wood from the bud stick get taken along with the bud?
In T-budding, at least, you’re supposed to remove the wood from behind the bud - Fruitnut’s tutorial has a good shot of this
I noticed that when I budded from my scrawny Fuji tree, there was no wood developed [yet]
Seedy,
You might enjoy this thread from last year’s conversation on this topic:
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Yes… I mean you remove a “chip”…sometimes you get more wood, sometimes u get almost just the bud…depends on the cut and what kind of wood you have to work with. I have no idea if more wood equals better take… i’m not sure how it all works.
another shot of another chip bud that has taken and grown…
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I’ve been confused on this point, too - thanks for that link!
When T budding the cambium layer splits in two. When you pull the bark loose from the wood there is cambium remaining on the wood and cambium that pulls off with the bark. It splits in the center of the cambium layer. That’s the area that’s producing wood on one side and bark on the other. It splits where it’s actively growing in the center.
If you remove the wood from the bud you now have full cambium on cambium contact. If you don’t remove the wood, and the pros never do, then you still have cambium contact. Only now it’s just where wood meets bark on the budstick. That little line of tissue on the budstick is pressed against the cambium that remained on the wood of the stock.
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Interesting… I’ve placed about 50+ buds so far and i’m not done. I am running out of places to bud. My Krymsk 1 rootstocks are getting bulk of them.
I find peaches about the easiest…the wood seems easier to work with (softer?)… some of the cots/plums can be pretty tough.
I do wonder how size effects anything…i placed some monster Saturn buds last night, but also placed some tiny ones too…sometimes all you have is small stuff.
Excellent, thanks! And re: the removing of wood from the bud…this pro does. The little gap in time between each budding is him getting a new bud from the stick in his hand, but earlier it shows the wood removal technique. 350/hour…oooeee…
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Thanks. I just found it after I saw this post.
He inserts the bud so fast I can’t see it!
LOL… It would be a good place for 1080p 120fps…so you could slow it way down…
The K1 I got from Raintree had a large root system. I really like K1 so far. What do you think about it?
Mine did fine. They all put on decent growth, although they were slow initially to get moving. I budded them over to multiple different stonefruit. I also have a few k86 that grew nicely (that i got from cutting back the scion)… i should have a lot more to say after this summer – they should really push growth.
I’m just guessing by looking at them, but 6 feet of growth on a few branches (very skinny/lanky growth===almost like a vine).
I would cut that new growth back so you have a stronger tree. What do you mean by [quote=“warmwxrules, post:46, topic:6166”]
also have a few k86 that grew nicely (that i got from cutting back the scion)…
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I didn’t bud graft my K1. I did whip grafts. They grew about four foot with four to six branches a couple foot long too. That was a peach. I used it on plums and they grew whips about three foot tall. I’m thinking of saving the top cutting of the rootstock and cutting it into sections for rooting. Some plums will root. I wonder if K1 will. I’m thinking bary them horizontally about an inch down. Stephen Hayes has a video where he says this is how you plant rootstocks, and he takes a stem of apple rootstock and pushes it 2/3 roughly into the ground. Then he says something like that’s all you have to do it’s that easy.
What rootstock did Mr. Hayes do this with? Some of course root better than others by cuttings.
The video I watched he didn’t even say what it was. He just said this is how you plant rootstocks. I took it for granted that it was an apple because he seems to always be working with apples. It might not of been even an apple rootstock. It was a stem about a foot long and just pushed it into the ground about 2/3 of the way.The video was about how to get rootstock. It was mainly about an old tree he had cut down and sprouts popping out of the ground. Then he digs them up and counts how many good ones and some maybes. I’ll try and find it.
All right looking at my history on youtube I thought I found the video but he didn’t show the segment. I don’t know if there is another video or not. I was googling and watching videos when I found it. I’m not sure if you tube history would show it if I watched it from the web. Let’s not say it’s so till I find what video I watched. I’m a bit bewildered myself that it wasn’t in the video i thought it was. I might have dreamed it? Lol