One thing about budding. I’m trying it 2 different ways, and i know i’ve done this in the past, but i’ve never kept track on if it matters. When you have your bud (from budwood) and you are looking to place it on a tree…usually i remove a bud of similar size and then fit the new one in there…well sometime i just find a bare spot on a limb–not where a bud is— (roughly the size of wood the bud came from) and remove some wood and place the bud to it that way… this might not sound clear at all… I really doubt it matters. The one thing is that some buds have “wider” section where the flower buds are///while some buds are almost the same width the whole way…so that is something to keep in mind…ok…maybe i need to add pictures…
Ah, but you chip bud iirc
Yeah…that is all i do. I figure it works for me and i feel like i’ve gotten good at it (at least more efficient…i can place them, wrap them, band them, label them in a few minutes each)… I’ve got a ton of budding to do still.
Everything i place should stay dormant until next spring.
If it works, don’t change it, fersure
This was one (of many placed) of what you sent me…
You can see how its already opened up (but nice and green)…probably just the branch growing… This one should be good to go. Although sometimes they still fail.
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It looks like most of the budding that was reported in this post was done a month or more ago. Upcoming weather here in western Oregon is: low 80s in the day and low 50s at night; probably won’t rain much if any for a month. Is it too late to do budding on my 2nd leaf (for me) trees?
No it’s not too late. I’d probably try chip budding and not force until next spring.
You can bud right into September…i usually stop by the first week.
Good macro photo!
Yikes, after finding your kule T-budding tutorial, I figured it was something I could handle…(if ya got a minute) why chip budding?
One reason chip might work better late in summer is that growth of the understock often slows or stops. T budding only works if the bark is slipping. Chip budding it doesn’t matter.
Try both. That’s how we all learn how to do this.
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Thanks, just a few months ago similar words encouraged me to try my first grafting…which was quite successful.
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I’ve been wondering about something and just now saw some explanatory drawings that make me wonder about it even more: does the cambium layer lift with the bark when T-budding? If so it seems like the understock cambium would sit on top of the bud bark, and the bud cambium would be against the wood and not have direct contact with the understock cambium. Chip budding would put the cambiums in contact with each other if there was much accuracy in the alignments of the parts involved. Here is a drawing of the layers of the bark/wood; where does the cambium layer end up with these two techniques? With a cleft graft there has to be some exact alignment: ~1/2 the scion edge; so it seems like a T-bud deal wouldn’t even work. There is that secondary/living phloem stuff. Things that make ya go hmmm.
I’m thinking that the typical scenario is that the cambium goes up with the bark:
Does any wood from the bud stick get taken along with the bud?
In T-budding, at least, you’re supposed to remove the wood from behind the bud - Fruitnut’s tutorial has a good shot of this
I noticed that when I budded from my scrawny Fuji tree, there was no wood developed [yet]
Seedy,
You might enjoy this thread from last year’s conversation on this topic:
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Yes… I mean you remove a “chip”…sometimes you get more wood, sometimes u get almost just the bud…depends on the cut and what kind of wood you have to work with. I have no idea if more wood equals better take… i’m not sure how it all works.
another shot of another chip bud that has taken and grown…
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I’ve been confused on this point, too - thanks for that link!
When T budding the cambium layer splits in two. When you pull the bark loose from the wood there is cambium remaining on the wood and cambium that pulls off with the bark. It splits in the center of the cambium layer. That’s the area that’s producing wood on one side and bark on the other. It splits where it’s actively growing in the center.
If you remove the wood from the bud you now have full cambium on cambium contact. If you don’t remove the wood, and the pros never do, then you still have cambium contact. Only now it’s just where wood meets bark on the budstick. That little line of tissue on the budstick is pressed against the cambium that remained on the wood of the stock.
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Interesting… I’ve placed about 50+ buds so far and i’m not done. I am running out of places to bud. My Krymsk 1 rootstocks are getting bulk of them.
I find peaches about the easiest…the wood seems easier to work with (softer?)… some of the cots/plums can be pretty tough.
I do wonder how size effects anything…i placed some monster Saturn buds last night, but also placed some tiny ones too…sometimes all you have is small stuff.