I had these last year but saw them too late. My crop was ok but small. This season, I did not cover my plants this year, instead, I tried crop rotation but apparently I didn’t rotate them far enough.
I find row covers etc. be a giant pain in the ass when it comes to getting in there to weed and irrigate them. I may try next year.
A lot of articles, like this one, mention Spinosad as a control, naming the brand Entrust. Entrust is a 22% concentrate of Spinosad A and D. However, it’s $600+ for a bottle which would last me until my great grandchildren die.
Captain Jack’s is 0.5% Spinosad A and D. If I do the best rough math I can, the concentration at which Captain Jack’s recommends spraying, ends up at about the same per acre concentration as Entrust recommends for alliums, after adjusting for the concentration difference.
So should I assume it’s worth trying and may work? I guess part of the appeal is that spinosad is slightly systemic, and that keeps coming up in most of the reading I’m doing.
One other option worth looking at in Conserve SC, as far as I can tell it a non organic option because it has non organic inactive ingredients. It is 11% spinosad and costs $150ish a bottle, so it is about half the price of Entrust. I don’t know if that’s still overkill for your scale though.
Also works really well for flea beetles which are a big headache around here.
Agree with @Evenfall about the Conserve SC. If you’re going to be using a fair amount of spinosad in garden and orchard, it’s the best value. For most applications, you need only about 1/2 tsp per gallon.
Spinosad is not systemic—doesn’t enter the plant’s vascular system—but it is translaminar, and will enter and remain in leaf and perhaps other tissues for a limited time. That’s how it gets the miners. A good adjuvant such as Nu-Film will increase efficacy and length of effectiveness. Very low mammalian toxicity—they actually make oral spinosad preparations for systemic flea control in cats and dogs----but toxic to bees, particularly when wet. Best to spray when they’re not active.
All the ones on the link above which are neocontinoids are banned in MD if you’re not licensed. All of the others, when I search them they come up as fly bait, not something you could spray on a plant.
So I’m looking up all of the various insecticides in that article above, and the only ones I can seem to get a hold of are really only labeled for use on ornamentals and vegetable transplants for sale.
Nothing about using them on crops that are in ground for food production.