Questions for the experts
First pic is leaf yellowing of apples only. Gradual darker green spots, then leaf yellows and falls off. These are older leaves and often very small ones among larger leaves. Across several varieties. These mostly from liberty. Trees have had good sprays of insecticide and antifungal plus several coats of surround. Trees have some aphids but not on these leaves Most of the surround rubbed off as I carried them. Thinking it might be a deficiency, I sprinkled a granular miracle grow to all as that’s all I have at hand. Chlorosis from surround?
Next is yellow of sauzee swirl leaves. This has happened others years. About 1/3 of leaves turn yellow and fall off. No other tree affected. No pests seen.
Next is somewhat isolated case of leaf and bloom blight. Leaves on left are most representative. Not black like some others. Have seen this on leaf tips also.
Almost exclusively on new growth. Very tip turn golden yellow, then leaves and stem droop. Usually confined to tips and sometimes blooms. Happens later than blossom blight which generally has already occurred for me. Less frequent than usual although it’s still early. Thought it was a fungus but all trees have gotten pretty good dose of antifungal already.
Lastly persistent aphids that I have been battling at every turn. Had them in fall. Sprayed copper and dormant oil early feb or so. Have squished, removed leaves, used water, focused sevin spray, surround, several imidan sprays. As you know, Numbers can spread tremendously in several days. I’m currently winning the war but not by much. My question really is that I’ve noticed small ants in the area of the aphids. I haven’t seen that before. Why are they there? Ants not in photo. I get that many members do not treat or are not concerned with aphids generally speaking. I have gone from simple measures to more aggressive ones which I felt was the right progression.
Thanks for any ideas!
Don’t know about most of it, but as to ants and aphids: some ants farm aphids and milk them, and if you can keep them separated it helps. Safer’s Insecticidal soap can also help and there’s no limit as to how often you can use it.
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The first pic looked like apple scab.
I am not certain about the others. Keep in mind fire blight can show up in various forms.
If you have an extension service near by, you may want to contact the office and send the samples.
Thanks Tippy! I certainly see the similarity with scab but the weird thing is there is a lot less leaf damage and more discoloration than in the past.
The trees have gotten several sprays of indar. I have that solution down as 1/4 tsp per gallon. Is that right? It seems like a very small amount.
That is just bizarre. I just read about it.
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Yes, 1/4 tsp per gal of water. Do you add sticker in the mix? If there is a lot of rain, sticker helps.
Before I knew about Indar, I have used myclobutanil (Immunox) successfully. Has had no scab issue for years.
I don’t add sticker because I am combining it with surround. Should I separate those sprays?
Hi @Rosdonald , you might read this thread about tanglefoot to stop ants. Members highlighted pros and cons and even dangers if used incorrectly, but you can decide if it is a tool you wish to employ.
My trees are small and I’m able to squish all the aphids manually for now, but in the future, I’m thinking of trying out tanglefoot with flagging tape.
Thanks @sockworth I actually have some and have added rings of paper and tape, but I have physically been unable to bend down and get the tanglefoot on. I was thinking of combining my peach borer tree check and the tanglefoot but my back has really given me a fit lately.
It’s hell getting old.
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Yup. No Surround with sticker. If I were you, I would spray Indar with sticker separate from Surround.
Indar with sticker first.
Re. Tanglefoot. If you trees are 4-5 ft high before branching, you can sit on a short stool and wrap plastic around the trunk right before those branches.
I make sure the wrap is about 8-10” wide and tight before smearing Tanglefoot on the wrap.
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