I have a small 5 acre orchard that I planted in 2016. I can’t remember what exactly I planted for grass, but it grows faster than I would like and is becoming VERY expensive to keep it mowed. I have 7 sections of orchard planted, 5 are the taller variety of grass that I would like to eliminate and replant. The other 2 have a type of grass that is much shorter and easier to maintain. I think it might be Timothy.
First, any recommendations on a procedure for eliminating the grass without harming the trees? I know Roundup only kills green, but if there are more options, I am game. Second, if I posted photos of the grass I wanted, would anyone be able to identify the species? Finally, any recommendations for a species of grass that would work well and require little mowing? I’ve heard of Buffalo grass, but it seems to be quite expensive…
No expert on grass but it would be a real challenge to replace grass without removing the existing one altogether.
One option to explore is cheaper grass maintenance. How are you mowing the grass? On 5 acres you may need better equipment that while expensive will overtime lower costs.
Also keep in mind that some species could not care less about tall grass (sour cherry bushes have a root structure deep and well bellow the grass) while others are highly hindered by grass (haskaps, shallow mat root system). Some may require heavy mulching, or loosely installing landscape fabric in order to kill the grass around them. Others can put up with it better.
I’m looking at doing a full chemical “burn down” of the current grass in the fall. Killing it either with roundup or something similar, tilling it under for the winter and then replanting come spring. I’m exploring ideas now to get ready for a large project. Any help or thoughts is appreciated…
What type of trees are in your orchard? As Don said, some species have shallow roots that wouldn’t react well to that kind of treatment. Covering with cardboard/mulch/etc may work better to kill the grass around trees with lots of shallow roots.
If you don’t like the grass you have now.,don’t let it go to seed ,those seeds may sprout come spring .
So mow , etc before they seed.
If you post some good pics of the grass I may be able to help you identify it ? Or someone else can ? Pics of flower/ seed heads, ligules , leafs etc.
You mentioned Timothy that’s a tall grass.
Rototilling 2-3 times a few weeks apart usually will kill sod.
No deeper than 3 inches ,( 1-2 “). so as to not hurt tree roots .
And as @swincher said above stay away from trees .
I would suggest rototilling late summer , in preparation for a early fall sowing , reseed in spring if needed.
No need to spray the rototilled area if you can rototille ,. and safer.
Types of grass I might recommend
Creeping red fescue
Bluegrass
Chewing fescue
Sheep fescue
Bent grass.
Many new turf type grasses.
What state are you in ?
Spaying such a large area could be hazardous to your trees.
Spray drift , etc.
I would really avoid roundup. That stuff keep getting found on people from the stuff we eat.
The hardware stores have these gigantic sheets of plastic, used to cover entire roofs of houses. If you cut the grass short, put a ton of water on it, and lay down the plastic, it will solarize it and kill everything; grass and weeds alike. I realize it is five acres but you could work your way around the worst areas.
But if you do use want to use roundup… what’s the composition of your soil? How much water it gets? The more organic the soil is, the better it is at breaking it down. Sandy soil? It will linger and water will move it around.
Check out chemical mowing. I have never done it but it’s possible to use a very low rate of Roundup to stunt the grass without killing it which would reduce the mowing
I mow a bunch of grass in the Orchard too, so I understand your pain. We expanded the herbicide band on both sides of the trees and bushes this year so that it only takes 1 pass with the mower down each row which cut our mowing time in half.
Pen State and others have good info on orchard sod management which may offer some ideas.
I’m not keen on using a chemical, not my favorite thing to use at all. I use as little as possible in any application I can.
-Rototilling in the fall, but time is a factor…multiple passes rototilling down each row, CAREFULLY, is going to take some serious time. I would rather kill the grass and then rototill.
I do have a short boom sprayer (7ft wide) that can be lowered to about 12" off the ground. My thought was to do a couple passes down each row with that in late October/November and use a quack digger about a week later.
I will add photos ASAP of the type of grass I have in a couple sections that is a VERY easy keeper and is nice and thin. What I really like about it is that it cuts really easy and NEVER clumps up when it does get long. Long would be about 12"…it never really gets past that.
Today’s “it’s ok to spray near crops” is tomorrow’s banned from the market because of cancer. Most of those chemicals are extremely reactive in our bodies and often our physiology do not even have a proper mechanism to get rid of them. I’m not against chemicals but I try to keep them away from my food.
The creeping red fescue is a good option, it stays low and will grow under oak trees. Love grass is another, gets a bit higher and is a bunch grass, grows in poor soils, heat tolerant with winter die back. (Zone 7)
I have no problem with band spraying the fence lines and tree rows with roundup.
Apples are only mentioned on the label (the label is the law) under the Non-Bearing Food Crops section. It is stated that clethodim can be used, but only on apple trees that won’t bear fruit for at least a year after application.
I’m not the “chemical police”. I haven’t always followed the label. Just stating what the label says.
i use it mainly away from my plantings. i dont trust any chemicals either but would get overrun with dandelion, quack grass, creeping charlie and lambsquarters if i didnt use some. my mulch thankfully helps me use much less of it.
