Chickens: Lets share intel

This thread is for talking and sharing your hobby or whatever thing that chickens do for you or your garden or orchard.

My journey has led me here. The goal was to build a chicken house, a run, and entrance into a new block orchard. This is what happened.

Except for alot of 2X4s and 4X4s and some screws here and there i built this from junk and things that i have accumulated…

I could have built it all from new material much easier and faster but i like repurposing.

I built a small brooder, and repurposed an old plastic barrel that catches gutter water (there is a spigot on the bottom) pics of that later. Also an automatic old timey feeder, roosts and nests.

Chicks are hard to find here… i have a list of what i want:

Black Australorp (not yet)
New Hampshire Red (not yet)
Barred Rock/Plymouth (i found 3)
Buckeye (not yet)
Isa Brown (I found 3)

Not on the list- Rustic Rock… i was desperate to get going so i just got them.

Feed- Purina Flock Raiser crumbles. I will probably use this until they start foraging and go from there… maybe winter feeding also.

The run is on soil that i deemed unfit for the orchard. Heavy rock and trash soil. I am going to add some life to that soil while the chicks are growing up… wheelbarrows of soil, compost and things will be added.

Outside the run… i will sew clover.

The gate allows entrance into the new orchard which will have probably 70 sum trees. Maybe more with my high density plans.

(pups are being raised in here now)

16 Likes

Love the new addition! Super cool how you used reclaimed stuff—so creative. Your chicks and pups hit the jackpot!

3 Likes

Rustic Rock (these are being sold at my TSC and Rural King… online most folks dont know much about them… info is scarce so heres what i can find-

image

From the 2025 Hoovers Catalog

4 Likes

I would feed them Starter Grower. All Flock is for older birds.

3 Likes

If you have small bitties; grind up some oatmeal flakes into a course powder. And place a small container of it with the bitties. It ends pasty butt.

If you have a bitty with splayed legs; put him in a solo cup for a few hours. It helps correct the splay. Or you can tape the legs so they have plenty of motion room; but not splay.

We had one who did not respond to the solo cup after two days. Taped his legs last night and he is Speedy Gonzalez now.

4 Likes

Im using Purina Flock Raiser myself…as i stated.

We use a 29% protein chick starter exclusively. Then switch to a 4 grain scratch/layer pellet mix

1 Like

A decade ago I started getting into the keto/paleo diet stuff and ate a lot of eggs. I got to the point where I wanted to make a better egg and have more control into what’s going into their bodies. Cost wasn’t a huge factor.

I started them out with soy free feed, but within a couple years transitioned to soy and corn free. I’m not anti corn per se, but I’m not a fan of making it a base of their diet…it’s not very nutrient dense.

So I give them a mix of a lot of real food. I grow them their own garden of kale (the dino kale is their fave). They get a lot of meal worms. I don’t worry much about protein percentage like some do. If they had the option I swear 75% of what they consume would be worms and insects. I give them whole small sardines about once per week. They get shelled sunflower seeds, a pear or apple usually once per day, and a sweet potato here and there (unlike corn, very nutrient dense…and cheap!) Then they get scraps from a bunch of other things we eat. I provide oyster shell on the side for those that feel like they need more calcium. I’ve never really had a problem with thin shells.

The lawn and fields here are all organic and they have plenty of “weeds” to choose from while free ranging. They’ll eat clover and dandelion leaves, but plaintain (the weed) leaves are their favorite. Another one they like is either medic or sweet clover…not sure which of the two I have growing here. They love my tart cherries and figs too.

It’s a fun and rewarding hobby that integrates well with the homesteading type lifestyle. The big issue is protecting them from predators. It doesn’t take long for them to realize you have chickens there. Roosters will give their lives to protect, but many people don’t want to deal with that hassle. Hawks will find uncovered runs and free rangers. Digging predators will dig, climbing predators will climb, and bears will bust through pretty much anything. So be prepared to protect them like a fruit tree. The less protection, the more “fruit” you lose. And it only takes one pred to wipe them all out. Our coop is elevated 30” off the ground so that helps with the digging preds at night.

We have barred rocks, NH reds, and australorps. The barreds have been some of our sweetest and most fun chickens, but we have not had much luck with their lifespan for whatever reason. Our 2 australorps are still alive and will be 8 y/o in May. The NH reds are good birds and sweet, but they tend to be bred for production so they are prone to egg laying issues as they get older. I mean, most of the breeds from hatcheries are bred that way, but I find some breeds are worse than others. White production leghorns are like that as well. One of our original NHs died last year just before turning 8. The easter eggers tend to have good genetics and are strong healthy birds. We have 4 now…2 are our last remaining birds from the original 2016 flock and 2 younger ones from 2023. Our cream legbars are good little birds too. One is almost 8 and still lays blue eggs here and there.

The breeds we’ve had are NH reds, orpingtons (buffs, lavenders, and jubilee), barred rocks (production and heritage), white leghorns, australorps, easter/olive eggers, marans (black, blue, and white), salmon faverolles, silver laced wyandottes, and cream legbars. The only two breeds I’d really like to try someday are blue isbars and ayam cemanis (or swedish black hens).

6 Likes

Not many folks talk about Buckeyes but they seem great for what im doing.

The Buckeye was created in Ohio by crossing Cochins, Plymouth Rocks, and Malay chicken breeds. They are a Dual-Purpose breed that features rich, brilliant red plumage, yellow legs, and a pea comb. They are good egg layers and grow rapidly making them a true dual-purpose farm chicken. Buckeyes are very hardy that resist frostbite very well thanks to their small comb and wattles. Furthermore, due to their Malay ancestry they are very rugged and excellent foragers. They have an easy-going demeanor and are not inclined to be flighty. The Buckeye is the ultimate combination of beautiful plumage, utility, and hardiness for the backyard flock. Purpose: Dual-Purpose Production: 200 Medium Brown Eggs/Year Temperament: Active, Gentle, Friendly, Vocal Mature Weight: 6-7 lbs. Hardiness: Cold and Heat Hardy Broodiness: Occasionally Comb Type: Pea Comb

4 Likes

My wife graduated from the Univ of Michigan so there are no Buckeyes allowed on the property. :smile:

5 Likes

We rarely see Buckeyes this far south. You have to special order them.

In our big birds we have no real preference on hen breeds. We have numerous types and rotate new girls in every year. This year we added Welsumers, Australorps, Turkens, Blue Jersey Giants and Easter eggers.

Have a strong preference for Brahma roosters. They are good to the girls.

We have long raised Bantams. Cochins, Buff Japs, Silkies and Frizzles mostly.

2 Likes

We’ve had chickens for 8-10 years. For us personally, automating as much as one can is the key. The four main things I would suggest most are:

  1. Automatic Door - I wish we had gotten this so much sooner. The cost (around $100) kept me from installing this for years. Inevitably, you will forget to close the coop at night, a predator will absolutely take advantage of this. For peace of mind and the safety of your birds, I would highly recommend it.

  1. Self Watering System - This can be done many ways. We catch it off the roof, into a barrel, to the solar powered (potentially) water pump, into the “water bar,” and then back into the barrel. In the winter I put a water trough heater in the barrel. It has a thermostat that kicks on at around 35 degrees. The water pump is also plugged into a thermostat that turns on at around the same temp to circulate the warm water so it doesn’t freeze in the pipes. Game changer, no more breaking up ice in water bowls or trucking out hot water in the freezing weather.



Farm Innovators C-500 Submergible Cast Aluminum Utility Water De-Icer, Powered at 500 Watts with 50 Gallon Capacity for Versatile Farm Use

bayite BYT-7A014A DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM

Uniseal Gasket - For Rain Barrel - Used for the outlet and for overflow drainage

Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - To control water pump

Metal Poultry/Rabbit Watering Nipples - Metal conducts heat and is less likely to crack in extreme weather compared to the red plastic ones.

The rest of the apparatus was purchased from the local big box hardware store. I used 2” PVC for the water bar and PVC fittings and couplings that worked with PEX tubing. PEX is durable and less likely to burst if it does freeze. In my opinion, it’s easier to work with than PVC.

I don’t remember where I got this mesh filter, But a colander would work just as well.

  1. Automatic Feeders - Candy cane style gravity fed feeders. Plenty of “how to” videos on the YouTube for these. They are made from 3” or 4” PVC about four feet in length. The fittings are made for gutters and drainage and are cheaper than the ones actually used for waste water (pro tip). Each one holds 10-15 lbs of feed. If you have a rodent, racoon, or possum problem, you might skip these. Perhaps put them in the coop? We have no issues…yet.

  1. Roll-away Nesting Boxes - Clean eggs, accessible from outside the coop. Easy. You could probably easily make these from metal paint trays. I purchased mine. They work great, training the chickens to use them is a different story.


The coop is a basic 4’x4’ design. That way you can build it efficiently and cheaply with 2 ½ sheets of plywood. It’s a little more expensive, but I used the water resistant sheets made for bathroom floors. It has a corrugated metal roof and a janky gutter made from leftovers. It works okay. I’ll probably upgrade to an actual gutter in the future.

As for chickens, we buy the pullets or young adult hens, mostly mixed breed backyard birds. Chicks are messy, and take 7-9 months to produce. If you’re doing just a few (we have 6) it’s worth it. You’d spend the extra cash on grocery store eggs before they start to produce anyway, just go ahead and buy the layers. You also can guarantee you get hens. We ended up with four roosters at one time! We kept one for a while, but he was very loud and mean. Exactly what you’d want, unless you have neighbors and small children.

3 Likes

Several folks near me buy chicks at Rural King or TSC etc and raise them up to near laying age then sell them for $20ish or more.

I however couldnt deal with the 100s of facebookers and all their questions and nitpicking and all that comes with it.

Selling eggs i think over time would be much more profitable… at nearly 30 to 40cent per egg.

4 Likes

Couldn’t agree more. We gave our roosters away and still got a million silly questions and run-arounds.

3 Likes

I sell my eggs for $5 a dozen. I usually get $25 a week, which pays for the feed and treats for the chickens. I give my grandparents 2 dozen every 3 or so weeks and I keep about a dozen for myself.

The lady I sell them to turns around and sells them. If I didn’t have her, I would be rolling in eggs, we get around a dozen a day. The most annoying part is having enough egg cartons. They are about a dollar a carton. I try to reuse them as much as possible, but I don’t always get the same amount back.

3 Likes

That looks like a barred rock. Good chikns.

1 Like

I HATE chikns, but I love eggs. Currently we have 110 chicks in the brooder, 100 ISA browns and 10 Marans. ISA browns are sex links and have been very productive for us. Biggest problem with them is they only produce eggs for 1.5 yrs. and then production and egg quality drops markedly. All the big egg producers here use them for brown eggs and we have some very big producers in Iowa. A recent victim of hi path avian flu lost 4.8 million birds in one barn.
We sell 50-60 doz. a week @ $4. That money covers feed and I get all the fresh eggs I want!! We use a Kent feed starter and at first egg we switch to an 18% mash feed which we get locally. We also feed garden and table scraps to help with feed costs. We have a trade deal with a local TexMex diner for old rice and refried beans. Fresh water and feed every day and a large fenced run and these birds do lay some eggs. No roosters and my fruit trees and gardens always have plenty of fresh fertilizer.

1 Like

My RK sells Isa Brown, Golden Comet and Cinnamon Queen… the internet kinda says that they are all the same… but i dont think so… close but not the same.

I started wanting Golden Comets but i have a neighbor that had Isas and she convinced me… i was going to go ahead and get some Comets just because i wanted them in the first place…but the more i read… Cinnamon Queen is a better choice… at least as far as being both friendly and a egg producing machine.

As far as years producing… that doesnt matter that much to me…but i think with my large grazing area that somehow protein will make a difference. I reckon it takes alot of protein to produce alot of eggs and it takes a toll on them if they arent getting alot.

This seems interesting… im a bug nut…so i think i will enjoy it nonetheless.

It is worth getting into farming your own black soldier fly larva. A small bag of those is $10 more than the big bag of feed here.

2 Likes

Just brought home eight (straight run) chicks and have a dozen eggs in an incubator. We have a couple tractor/coop builds and will use these gals and guys to help dent the tick population and run them through the orchard aisles. It’s leaning pet/hobby more than anything. I’m just about to take them inside although they’re very peacefully enjoying the heated front seat in their little box.

3 Likes