After reading this thread I may use the cleft graft on many of my grafts this year and I like the idea of using a shoulder for those grafts as well 
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Before I waste a lot of scions, which one is the cambium here? Is it the green layer right under the outer skin, or the white part under that or the slightly darker layer after that?
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Thatās the big question. But the answer is that itās the layer of cells between the brown bark and the wood. It is literally only a couple of cells thick. So when you line up the scion with the rootstock you have to line up the line where it quits being bark - if the rootstock bark is thick the scion bark will be well inside it.
A lot of people make sure that the scion cambium crosses the rootstock cambium so as to guarantee at least some contact. That works pretty well.
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Thanks Mark! Is this the layer I am supposed to line up (or cross) the rootstock with?
Atleast from what I search, thats the layer between Phloem and Xylem and Phloem I am looking for
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Thanks @applenut! This is the pic I looked at when I got the question 
Assuming the slightly dark ring is what I should be lining up with the rootstock, it doesnāt seem to be lined up here. I guess my assumption is wrong, so wanted to clarify
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No; the cambium is just below the outer bark. It is thickest on young growth, thus is why we use first season scions for grafting. Here it is almost 1mm thick, it is much thinner on older wood.
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Yes. Itās green. A very thin line.
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Got it, thanks!
I am new to grafting, why wrap the entire scion in parafilm? What is the benefit?
Keep the moisture in. Prevent the buds dry out.
And the buds shouldnāt have any difficulty popping through?
Now, do you graft with it already wrapped in parafilm or do you somehow wrap it without moving the scion once it is positioned and securely in place?
I tried using melted toilet wax (in a clean cat food can above a candle and then the stove) and made a mess of thingsā¦ I had exactly no grafts take (5 plum and a peach)
I should have video taped it. It was terribleā¦
Scott
(just wanted to add Iāve successfully grafted many times before this)
Good quality parafilm is stretchy. You should stretch it before wrapping scionwood. Buds have no issue pushing through it even if you do not stretch parafilm.
I have found it is more convenient to pre-wrapped scionwood before grafting. I do not use parafilm to tighten the graft union. It is not strong enough for me. I use gradening tape or Temflex to tighten the union.
If you google Stephen Hayesās grafting videos, you will get a good tutorial.
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I actually did both.The take rate has no significant differences.
Iāve used parafilm-M for years, i have just never wrapped the graft (generally over a rubber-band or two. Iāve never thought to pre-stretch it before, though.
Getting no significant difference whether wrapping before or after grafting is interestingā¦
I will just NEVER do the wax again
My biggest struggle is grafts which take but never thrive. My thought is its because I did them on non-dominant branches. But since theyāre mostly just apples Iāll likely just re-graft them into more advantageous positionsā¦
Scott
My view on pre-wrapping my scionwood is to prevent desication while in storage more than anything else.
I got scionwood from people as early as Jan. I wonāt be able to graft until mid April or May (for peaches). I wrap scionwood as soon as I receive them and put it in zip lock bag and in a fridge. I donāt even need any moisture in the bag. Scionwood stay fresh until I am ready to graft.
With apples and pears, pre-wrap is not important. Iāve found it helps me with stone fruit esp. nectarines and peaches as they have to be kept weeks longer in a fridge before weather is cooperative for grafting.
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Buds push right through, but I am a little careful to not wrap too many layers over buds. One or two is plenty.
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Iāve had buds push through Temflex!!!
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Didnāt know that could happen - very cool!
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