I just bought my 1st two supposedly cold hardy ones from Isons and then I found this thread. I’m in zone 6a and am going to be planting them in summer pots and then inside the high tunnel. I don’t plan to try more than these 2. They are: Kandahar Pomegranate and Texas Red Pomegranate.
BTW - Isons just posted this ad, but I don’t know if it’s a good deal or not. /certainly not for my zone: Special limited Offer
SPECIAL PURCHASE:
Box of 10 Al Sirin Nar Pomegranates for only $175.00 – And we include Free Shipping.
*** Must be on an order by itself with no other products. ***
Al Sirin Nar is one of the most reliable and cold hardy pomegranates available! Produces large, glossy fruit with a high juice quality with red arils and a sweet / tart flavor. Medium to large size fruit. This variety is one of the heaviest producers. Cold hardy to about 5 degrees. This variety is self-fruitful but will produce heavier crops when planted with a different variety.
Plant trees about 15′ apart.
Exceptionally heat tolerant. Prefers full sun for best fruit production but will tolerate some light shade.
Trees are 2-4′ shipped. Zones: 7-10 Ripens: Late Fall
…Moving the conversation about pomagranates over from a Citrus post.
I’m not familiar. I do have a friend who ripened pomegranates about 20-30 minutes from where I am without any sort of shelter or supplemental heat, but unfortunately since it was ‘Parfianka’ it dies back to the ground some years making it very unable to produce most years (I think he may have ripped his out after realizing its lack of hardiness). I haven’t personally ripped out my ‘Parfianka’ yet, but I think it’s had near full die back twice and I’m assuming it’ll just fizzle out on its own eventually.
I’m not familiar with most of the pomegranate cultivars. I do know i really liked the ones that grew as windbreaks for the citrus orchards when I was a kid down south.
I’ve definitely heard of people around the PNW region getting fruit. There are so many little microclimates it’s hard to generalize. That phenomenon is consistent up and down the Pacific coast.
I’d like to expand my experiments with pomegranates. I’d be happy to buy a few cutting from you this spring if those are available.
If you haven’t taken a look at Bob Duncan’s videos on YouTube they are very informative. He’s got an awesome operation going on the south coast of Vancouver Island. Grows lots of citrus, loquat, avocados, feijoa and pomegranates.
Someone in my neighborhood in West Seattle has one planted as a street tree and it holds about a dozen fruit every fall, but I’m pretty sure they don’t ripen since they never pick them. I don’t know if there’s any easy way to know if they are ripe without picking and opening them? I keep meaning to knock on their door and ask about it, but somehow I’m always in a hurry when I’m going that way and never feel ready for the semi-awkward door knocking. I posted a photo of their fruit here a couple years ago:
I probably won’t be able to offer cuttings of some varieties yet since I need them to just focus on continuing to establish, but I do have extra rooted plants of ‘Desertnyi’ (which has proven to be one of my most hardy) as well as ‘Al-sirin-nar’ (which I have not yet determined hardiness level).
It’s definitely not the way pomegranate farmers do it, but I typically wait until the fruit gets a split. Maybe I’ve just been lucky but so far the pomegranates I harvest this way are always perfectly ripe. Except for right around the split which is typically inedible.
Ripening time will for sure be a major issue for us. I am trialing ‘Eversweet’ for that reason. It’s supposed to be sweet enough that it is good to eat even if it doesn’t ripen. Although mine hasn’t fruited yet, it is among the handful which have overwintered reliably for me without any protection. It’s been in ground for a few years now. Hopefully it’s roots will have established enough now to start growing faster and flowering soon…
They’re in one gallon pots, but due to be up-potted. The ‘Al-sirin-nar’ were sitting on the ground and seem to have rooted through the drain holes so they took off growing faster than the ‘Desertnyi’ of the same age (which were elevated off the ground).
Sumbar and Sverkhranniy ripen in ground for me in Portland before first freeze in mid to late Sep. I have a few others that I think will do so as well.
Since you have experience growing mature trees I was wondering if you have ever seen this kind of leaf anomaly? I can’t find any info online about pomegranate leaves curling. In fact, most of the info I find says that pomegranates usually aren’t affected by pests or diseases. My first instinct is that it’s some kind of a microscopic insect sucking the fluid from the leaves. I can’t see any but I’ve heard there are mites that you can’t see with the naked eye. So, any ideas?
Since you have experience growing mature trees I was wondering if you have ever seen this kind of leaf anomaly? I can’t find any info online about pomegranate leaves curling. In fact, most of the info I find says that pomegranates usually aren’t affected by pests or diseases. My first instinct is that it’s some kind of a microscopic insect sucking the fluid from the leaves. I can’t see any but I’ve heard there are mites that you can’t see with the naked eye. So, any ideas?
Greetings! Hope all has been well. Did you get any fruit on the pomegranates this summer? I was also wondering if you’ve ever encountered a leaf curl issue with any of your pomegranate trees. I have 8 different varieties growing and this is the only one giving me problems. I’ve even clones this plant dozens of times and the clones have never come down with this affliction. So perhaps that indicates some kind of insect infestation. I can’t see any but, from what I understand, that isn’t also possible with mites. Any idea?
I wouldn’t go so far as to say that I have experience with mature pomegranate trees as I’ve only been growing them for about six or seven years. I have not experienced anything like that leaf curling on any of my pomegranates, but I would suspect some sort of tiny sap sucking insect when the leaves are in development stage. On other species with similar leaf deformity causing bugs I’ve noticed that removing growing tips including and above affected leaves can sometimes significantly reduce the issue since the bugs seem to be constantly migrating to the youngest tender growing tips as the shoots elongate. Removing the tips forces dormant buds lower on the stems to start pushing growth and often these buds aren’t already infected with the bugs since they are primarily breeding where the growth was already active.
I’m hoping it’s some kind of insect. That would be the best case scenario.
That’s a pretty cool process to remove the leaf tips. So do you remove the tip of every injured leaf?
How have the pomegranates been for you so far? I’ve been getting a few fruit over the last two years on one dwarf. The others so far have set fruit that begins to swell before dropping just before dormancy. I got a couple Haku-botan last spring and those are supposed to be consistently good producers in the PNW.
I don’t remove leaf tips, I remove the whole stem tips to remove the growing point along with the attached leaves (in full, not just part of the leaf). The damage is happening early in the development of the leaf so the actively growing tip is where there seems to be the most bug activity (at least in cases where it’s the little critters causing the damage).
I have never gotten any flowers on my in ground pomegranates, but just noticed yesterday a bud is forming on a much younger pomegranate which is still in a pot so age doesn’t seem to be the factor given that I have the same variety in ground also… I never water my in ground poms though and they love water so I think eventually once their roots spread far enough to ensure adequate water through the summer they will probably really take off and start blooming/fruiting.
