Combatting brown rot





I know large size containers are a problem for the BYO because so many effective chemicals are only available that way. I’m impacted as well because just about anything I buy last several years. I worry about the effectiveness of the chemicals expiring before I use them. I try to buy things that are labeled for blue, black, apple and peaches.

The Indar on my list is 75WSP and 2F at 2oz and 6fl oz/acre. Pristine is 38WG at 14.5 oz/acre. I often see fungicides with different modes of action mixed together in the production manual, but the effectiveness ratings above are for the specific
chemicals stand alone. Quadris Top, Inspire Super, Quash and Adament also show 5 stars against BR, but I have never used any of those.

I’m looking at a publication called "NC Peach Disease and Pest Management Guide 2016.


Drew, where did you read this? Cornell fails to note this in their description of this fungicide and I’ve not read this anyplace else so I’d really appreciate another reference.

Appleseed, why do you doubt that SI’s are systemic? It is broadly stated that they are.


The edibles I meant are vegetables not fruit trees.You can look at Bonide’s home product label


And where does it describe the product as being a systemic?


It’s not I got it confused with another product. Oops, my bad
I should have listed Agri-Fos as the systemic for edibles. It is the organic acid not Mancozeb. Thanks for paying attention. Still trying to pass a kidney stone and just about have had it with the pain.


Sorry to hear that. Hope it passes soon.


Thanks Alan. I just drank about a gallon of water trying to push it out. Consumed some apple cider vinegar too, a home remedy. My neighbor is Iraqi, and he said his family drank boiled corn cob water. I’m ready to buy some corn! I won’t have Medical insurance till April, I’m in a tough situation.

Thanks for pointing out the mistake, or leading me to find it.


LOL :grinning:


I thought systemic was when it went throughout the plant. Translaminar is the word for the fungicides that penetrate the surface of leaves…


That’s right. Also called “locally systemic”.


Combos are becoming increasingly popular, for resistance and efficacy. I used Captan/Indar combo some last season, which seemed to work better than Indar alone. Probably because one is a protectant and the other more curative. I’m not recommending combos for backyard orchards. In most cases it would probably be overkill.

Chemical companies are coming out with more premixes now (like the ones Blueberry mentioned) which don’t require tank mixing. I was told manufacturers like premixes because they can come out w/ a “new” product w/o most of the research/development costs. The times I’ve looked at premixes, I’ve noticed they charge more for the premixes than the cost of buying the two pesticides individually and tank mixing them.

Actually there is one systemic soil drench (that I know of) labeled for fruit trees (Admire).


I’m not sure when the modifier locally came into use, maybe the adjective has been commonly used for some time and I missed it- I notice that is the description Cornell now uses. I’m almost certain no guidelines I’ve ever read has used to word “translaminar”. Maybe it is only in the secret vocabulary of the chemical doctorate class.

Thanks for the vocabulary lesson guys. I think I will stick to calling SI’s and Strobes locally systemic- being a high school drop out myself.

The importance of this quality is it assures rain fastness, mostly a positive, but in the spring, during active growth, it can leave a lot of tissue unprotected between sprays if you don’t add Captan, which washes from one leaf to another.

At least this is Cornell’s take. I’m not sure how much of a risk is involved in skipping the Captan, but I’ve gotten away with not using it in the mix, many sites, many seasons… The stuff frightens me on wet springs or anywhere near an oil app. The tree can take some leaf burn but that doesn’t mean my clients like it. Captan will burn the tender leaf tissue that occurs in wet cool springs.


I just ordered them. They arrived promptly and look like they are made of wax paper but thinner.

Just like you said, Clemson recommends two sprays of fungicide and insectcide before bagging. I can see their reasoning but I am bummed out. I will try using some on peaches with no spray except for Surround at petal fall.


It is well worth the risk to experiment with a lesser spray approach than university recs. Commercial production is a different ball game, and that is all they reliably know about.


I think these peach bags are for backyard gardeners who have a few fruit trees only.

I cannot imagine the time and labor cost re. Putting each bag on each peach/ fruit It is labor intensive and needs more “finesse” than putting zip lock bags on.

However, they look quite promising so experiment I will.


Maybe adding sulphur to the surround tank would help some on the brown rot too. I’ll probably see how few fungicide sprays I can get away with.


That’s a good idea. Thanks for reminding me.


Actually, the bags for developed for the commercial grower, so they could experiment with reduced spray or even no spray peaches and sell those peaches for a much higher price. Here is the link from Clemson:


I saw it but wonder how much labor they need for bagging in commercial planting? It look a bit harder than zip lockbagging.

I will find out myself in a few months.


It would require a huge amount of labor, but the large growers have a lot of labor on site. I believe its just an experiment to see if the economics work. With a $1 a pound premium sold into a local market it has the potential to be a very successful for a small portion of the production.

Please let us know how they work. I may want to try some myself