Good to know about that
Thanks for the confirmation. I bought more copper today but my local store did not sell the MFF or the INFUSE product. So I’ll have to order that online.
What is your advice for spraying copper with a sticker in advance of potential rain? I did all my pruning about 4 days ago and planned to spray copper this afternoon. Tonight forecast is a slight potential for showers. How long must copper by sprayed before being rain safe?
Drew, I found that the lime-sulfur doesn’t store well after the bottle is opened. The sulfur precipitates out. I don’t know about unopened bottles. I have three unopened bottles, so I hope it keeps.
Hmm, mine is fine, 2 years old.
Once it is dry it is fine. It isn’t absorbed by the plant, so it just needs to dry onto the surface. But I’d add Nu Film or some other extender to keep it from washing off if you have it available.
Oops sorry. Don’t own chlorthanlinil.
Drew, I don’t know how old the opened bottle was. At least that gives me hope the other three bottles will last for a while, since it was very difficult to find, so I stocked up when I located some.
I stopped and bought a pint of copper today and when I got home and decided to spray I opened my chemical cabinet to grab the sticker and saw a new bottle of southern AG copper. I had forgotten I bought it last year and hadn’t opened it.
Obviously it is advised to not plant trees that are severely prone to brown rot. What would these be? What fruits for you have been brown rot magnets?
For peaches and apricots, the Canadian breeders considered BR resistance- Harcrest is a late peach that seems resistant. I’ve also noticed that some of the old fashioned varieties like Madison and Rariton Rose are more resistant than many newer varieties. It is regional also, of course, with varieties that ripen when precip and/or humidity drop in your area are most likely to escape it. Here that means Sept or later.
What is the shelf life for MFF/Infuse?
@Drew51 Julius Ceasar used to stand on his head upside down for kdney stones, to have them settle, and not block his urine tube;
I did that 30 years ago when I had em and it worked, until I was able to get them acoustically blasted!
Luckily mine passed, I’ll try it next time!
I’ve read through this whole thread but still didn’t see the following specific question addressed, so hopefully some of you can help me with this:
My early peach crop was absolutely devistated by Brown Rot- I didn’t spray anything but bug sprays this year except one early oil and copper spray. Anyway, point is for whatever reason, I got hit HARD
Well, my regular season peaches will be ripe in 2-3 weeks, and they are already showing signs of brown rot even as green peaches, so I’m sure I’m in for another near complete crop loss.
My question is, is there anything I can do this late- any sprays I can use- to mitigate brown rot this late in the season. My green peaches are about the size of golf balls now. For what its worth, they also have lots of black dots (not sure if its scab or bacterial spot) but I can live with that since it usually just affects appearance. But a few peaches and even a few limb tips already have brown rot, so I’m sure when these peaches are almost ripe they will be hit as hard as my early peaches were. They are 2 feet from those early peaches that were hit so hard, and we’ve had nothing but rain this spring, so its safe to assume I’m gona suffer more losses if there is nothing I can do. I did get all spoiled fruit and wood off other trees, btw.
I have cooper and captan both on hand, and can buy some Immunox if you all say it will help. I have a good idea of what to do next year, but this question is about what to do, if anything, once I have peaches at golf-ball size and known heavy exposure to brown rot. Will anything help?
I think you can still spray against brown rot. Indar has worked very well for and others. If you check the thread " dealing with Severe Black Knot, we talked about brown rot and chemical spray, too. Others use Bonide Infuse.
If you can get Indar, you will be good.
Unfortunately, once brown rot is there, it won’t go away on its own. B
It only gets worse.
Get a copy of the midwest spray guide and follow their recommendations, if you have a southern fs near you that is where I got mine. I don’t think it’s too late for late crops but I would recomend using more than one fungicide, and alternate them back and forth so you don’t build resistance. Indar, pristine, captan all good choices. Captan is by far the cheapest but not as good as the other two in my opinion
Montery Fungus Fighter should provide similar kickback to Indar. If you don’t want to pay for all the material of the Indar package try that.
Dang! The list of things I need for my little orchard just never ends! I was hoping I wouldn’t have to buy something else and order it. Since I have Captan and can buy immunox locally without shipping costs, I was hoping they would work. No one here sells MFF either. Oh well…I guess I will use Captan until I can get one of the others shipped in. Thanks.
A Bonide product called Bonide Infuse has the same ingredient as Monterey Fungi Fighter. The label looks almost the same, too.
If you want to try it instead of using Captan, you probably can order it on line.
MFF is the same as Bonide’s INFUSE, which might be more available