Is there a list anywhere of what varieties of Japanese and European plums might be compatible when grafted to either rootstock. There seems to be a lot of confusion/contradictions on this topic.
I had read here a few times that European plums are sometimes compatible when grafted to older/less vigororous Japanese hosts. Has anyone considered cincturing or girdling the Japanese host branch/trunk to reduce the Japanese hosts vigor. Would this also not have the added side effect of inducing earlier fruiting? Just a thought.
Can anyone provide any clarity as to exactly which varieties of Jananese/Euro plums can be successfully grafted in either direction.
So Iām new to the site, just came across it this evening. Iām wading into the pear dwarfing thread as a longtime user of cottoneaster and saskatoons after Bernie set me on this path about 8 years ago. Iām growing in the central Yukon, 30 years +, so most of my pears and apples are in some kind of at least a winter shelter. I grow Krazulya, Bolshaya and Early Gold on both shrubs, most are grafted 8-16 inches from the ground, they fruit annually, some require staking to support the stems when fruit load is heavy. Most have a few branches of the rootstock growing beneath the scions, however in one case, Krazulya on saskatoon, grown in a wooden box for 8 years, it has only one thin 8 inch twig of the stock that supports about 5 leaves a year, while the pear, only 4 feet tall is loaded with fruit every year. Talitsa, in my experience will not grow on these rootstocks for more than a year. This has fruited for me only as a side worked limb on a Golden Spice, the Talitsa is clearly dominant. I have one Krazulya outside on saskatoon, 4 years, it struggles and survives only under the snowline. So there is rather a lot of variability in how these things work in different places. My nursery/orchard sees -50 C many winters.
How have you found the pear on saskatoon grows compared to cottoneaster? I would guess the cottoneaster is more dwarfing? Have you had any graft failure as they go on up to eight years? Iām impressed the saskatoon handle -50, we hit about -40C max here in southern Mb. Bolshaya and Kruzulya both survive above the snow here so far, but I just have a couple of winters with them and still waiting for fruit.
Hi Doug, Its impossible for me to say, I donāt have enough of them to tell, especially with different ages and varieties. The most fruitful one annually is a Krazulya on Saskatoon that fruited the 3rd spring. Most of these dwarf pears do fruit the 3rd year. None has failed after the 2nd year. They either fail at the start or the next spring, after that they seem to be good for many years.
I see this is an oldie but goodie. What were your results from this combination. I probably have 50 different pear trees and never one fruit to ripen due to major tree rat infestations. Started and stopped growing fruit 2 other times. Giving it another go this year. trying to get trees as small as possible. I actually have problems with the tree rats and birds. will try small trees and coverings.
